Trans Pyrenees cycling trip 2026

 

This has been a long time in the pipeline, it was worth the wait!

Getting to Lleida
Saturday 4 July

What a long day of travelling and heat...we woke up at 3am in rainy Edinburgh (and thank goodness we dropped the bikes at the airport the night before!). After some debating we got a taxi (mostly because it was raining), and got to the airport at 4am. As per tradition we got our coffee number 2, and for a change the flight was on time.

We landed 20min before schedule, got the boxes, put the bikes together, found our way to the train station of El Prat, which was very messy indeed, 30 min later we were in Barcelona Sans.

All went so smoothly that we even managed to get the 12.03 train to Lleida, but because we didn't think it would be possible, we got on it with no food and 1/2l of water each...big mistake as it was more than 3h long, hot as hell, crowded, and we ended up sitting with the bikes in front of the toilets. It was actually quite comfortable but it did look weird. What I love about Spanish people is that they are pretty chilled out about everything!

We got off at Lleida at 3.15pm and it was as hot as hell. Thankfully the cycle to the Hotel Real was 3 min and flat. They let us took the bikes up the room which was great, and we went straight to get some food. The first time we stopped briefly in Lleida we were not very impressed, but it's not that bad at all. We were strolling in the pedestrian street and stopped in a café. Unfortunately it was too late for lunch (we beated the Spanish at late lunch!!!!) but we managed to get a nice tostada with avocado and acai bowl, which was the best thing ever with that heat. We then checked out a few supermarkets to get lunch for the day after but we couldn't find the handy grain pouches, so we got back to the hotel for a siesta and a shower, while watching the tour de France which started today...in Barcelona of all the places!

At 8pm we went to a vegetarian restaurant called Teresa Carles. We were not very impressed, small portion and expensive, but then we were not even that hungry (did I mention the 40 degrees?)

Back to the hotel I really felt spaced out, where am I? Who am I? I slept great.


Lleida to Espui (train to La Pobla de Segur) - 30km and 741m up
Sunday 5 July

We were not in a hurry as we had a very easy first day, and thank goodness as at 8am it was already 27 degrees. We had a nice breakfast (should have eaten more!), then we had a stroll in town and bought our bocadillo for lunch. Back to the hotel, we got packed and headed to the train station. The train to La Pobla was busy but all civilised. The bikes got on the hooks and we even managed to sit down.

We first went through the great Catalan depression, so flat and dry, and saw 2 storks nested in a church tower bell, then the gorges and tunnel started and it was so cool (literally, thanks AC!), and finally at 12.20pm we reached the end of the train journey and the start of the cycle.

Suncream on, we went through a very busy La Pobla. The shop was open but they only sold coke so we headed off thinking we would get refreshments along the way. It was hot and the sweat came down in buckets, but the road was empty, the swallows were around in big numbers, the crickets were singing loud, the smell of the pines, and I suddenly remembered what summer is like.

It was a nice gentle climb with occasional flat bits and the sky was blue. Mountains were towering in front of us and that's where we were heading to. After 10k we entered a village with a bar and that was our first fanta limon, drank in the shade of a tree by a stream. We refilled our bottles with ice but that didn't last long...

5km after we entered another village with 2 bars. They were too busy to serve food so we got another fanta limon, Paul got some crisps, and we sat by a fountain where I immersed my head, in the company of a swallow fledgling, I love birds! At some stage I saw a massive bird that could have been a vulture, we also saw a dead pine martin and woodpecker on the road.

Up we went again deeper into the mountains. I was about to get into hunger crisis when Paul said a cafe was round the corner, a god saver! It was a bit of a no frills one, and they were busy serving a group of 11 people, so there was some waiting, but eventually I got: a magnum, olives, one croqueta de queso from Paul and patatas bravas (time 5pm, today I'm all over the place).

hunger!

life is good again

4km more and we arrived at destination in Espot! It's a tiny and mostly dead hamlet up the road (really up, i had to push) and walked through the small stony alleys filled with cats, up to the old church. The house we stay is by it on the church square, and Montse has been so kind and welcoming. It's a lovely quiet place, we have a small room with a balcony looking at all the Martins fly around. Dinner was lasagne (much better than those from last night!), and ice cream and beer. There is also another cyclist here who is doing the transpyrenees MTB route (respect!). We had a nice chat over dinner and it turns out tomorrow we will cycle part of the route together, let's see how that goes. It's now 9.15pm, I haven't stopped since this morning, I must have drunk 4l of liquids, and I bet I'll sleep well!

looking at where we will go tomorrow...up!

View from the room

Espui to Esterri d'Aneu - 63km and 1500 m up
Monday 6 July

The cycling day today was spectacular, pity it ended in the shitiest of the hotels...

We slept very well and woke up on a slightly chilly morning which was very welcome (we were at 1200m of altitude). We had breakfast at 7.20am but Goiga already had it, he came to get the bike room keys and said he wanted to beat the heat...I think we all wanted to cycle on our own and that suited everyone! We wished him safe travels and got to eat a decent but not too big breakfast: omelette and cheese, some bread and jam, juice and coffee. Good stuff we had some bars...

The hamlet was dead quiet and lovely (definitely missing it while I type this...) and the morning chill much welcome. It was a steep 1k down to the main road, then we got on our gravel road that 12km after would take us to the top at 2150m.

It was a long rocky climb, with some pushing, but at the start we were in the shade of the mountain and it was pretty enjoyable. The going was very slow and I was a bit worried we would never get to destination... As we climbed the views got spectacular and we could see Espui getting smaller and smaller. We met nobody all the way up, and finally at 10.30am we reached the pass, hurray (we left at 8.05am and we only covered12k!!)! Col de Triador, the highest point in the Pedals de Foc route.

The top!! and it's only 10.30am!?

We had a nice stop to take in the views, suncream, bar and pictures, and we then moved on, and to my very pleasant surprise it was all cyclable!! It was 20k of bumpy gravel high up at 2000m with stunning views and pretty quiet. Apart from the farmers, cows and horses, there was not much up there. Not true really, as we saw an eagle and a group of vultures circling in the sky.

The final top!

It was hot with not a single cloud in the sky but pleasant (I don't want to be in Lleida today!). We started the super steep 10k descent to Espot and had to stop every now and then to pour water on the breaks. Again, not a soul around, what a bliss! We got on tarmac a few km before reaching town and it was soooo sweet, I forgot what summer cycling is like.

Reaching Espot after a very long and steep descent

We reached sunny Espot at 1pm in time for lunch. I got a tofu burger and Paul eggs and potatoes, we really needed a good break. We were trying to kill time so we stopped at the fountain to wash off all the dust from the 40Km of gravel (man we were filthy!), head below the water which felt great, and finally at 2pm we set off for part 2 of the day, which if at all possible was even better than part 1.

The town Mayor, undisturbed by passing cars, or anything really

The hotel where we stayed when at the GR11

I'd be dry again in 5 min

We shortly left the main road and got on a secondary one which was an absolute pleasure. Deserted, scenic up the valley, with the smell of pines and plenty of butterflies, what else do you want?

We stopped in a small village by a fountain to eat our apple and enjoy the shade, peace and quiet, and finally we got on the final 10k descent to destination. It was so good but as we went down we got blasts of heat so strong that they didn't feel normal at all, really hope we won't get wildfires...

We entered town and eventually checked in the Hotel Fonda. The room is shit and we didn't even get a double. It's hot as hell, and we are above the bar with tables outside which is noisy as hell. I can't wait to get away and I really hope we will sleep something. Such a shame as it has been a lovely day and a normal hotel would have been the cherry on the cake.

Our very noisy hotel, when it was quiet

Some bike maintenance

Shower, tour de France stage, and we went to forage for the day after. It took us a while to decide what to take (at 40 degrees everything melts), but went for 2 apples (better than boiling hot drink we thought), the last baguette and cheese, and 2 peaches that we ate straight away, the small joys of life.

Honest, all the postcards we saw in this trip were awful

The best solution in desperate times is to get drunk, and it worked! At dinner we were 2 tables: us and a party of 8 making a hell of a noise. We got linguine with mushrooms and a ton of cheese (why??? It was supposed to be butter!) and 2 pints which was enough to get us pissed. We then went for a stroll and checked out the old bridge, inaccessible before dinner as the sun was still out. The church and massive bell tower were a show in itself with all the swallows flying by in huge numbers. We also found out that the World Cup game Spain vs Portugal was on...thankfully we are in Catalunya and the celebrations didn't happen here.

I can still hear the swallows and martins 

Esparri to Vielha - 59km and 1300m up
Tuesday 7 July

At the end I slept better than I thought I would. We left the window open and it refreshed a bit at night. Breakfast was way better than I expected, the kind that lasts until lunch even if you cycled 38km and 1300m up... I had a massive croissant, bread with tomate rallado, 2 breads with scrambled eggs, and cereals with peach. I was stuffed but no regrets.

At 8.45am we were ready to leave this place in the morning chill, which felt great. Unfortunately one strap of Paul's back rack broke, nothing than a zip tie cannot fix...

We said goodbye to an empty village and started on the paved road C145. It started climbing but it was more of a steep up, flat, kind of go down, repeat. It was dead quiet and a pleasure to cycle without sun.

At km 10 we stopped in a small village with and old church and square to refill the bottles, I have no idea how much we are drinking, and glad we are a bit high up as there was a red alert for heat in Lleida.

Hello Mr Bear...

Up we went again until we reached the end of the paved road at km 16 and entered the gravel world. There was also some information sign about the presence of bears and how to deal with them. We are in Val d'Aran which is one with the most concentration of bears. We were hoping to see one, at a distance, but no luck.

On the bottom left corner a very pleased lady bear...

The gravel road started as a dream road. In the shade of the forest, by a stream, with grazing cows, perfect gradient. Than things started to degenerate and it felt like cycling in Northumberland...bumpy, with insane climbs followed by stupid descents, and of gravel of very dubious quality. We met nobody all the way. Still, it was worth it as it was all so quiet and serene.

At some stage it opened up and the quality of the gravel improved. We were getting higher and soon we reached the Rifugio de Montgarri. It was a bit of a shock as suddenly we found cars, people, bikes, and a huge church out of nowhere! They all came from the other side, where we were heading to, but I didn't realise it would be so popular and beautiful.

We stopped for a cold drink and to cool down a bit. We were only 5k to the top and there were 2 gravel roads. I asked the guy at the rifugio and he said the one we plotted was rocky and the other (where the cars went) was smoother. He was then giving me gravel options for the descent and I asked 'but we can go on the road no?', he said "yes sure", so I said " fuck gravel I had enough!'... he was laughing and I bet he could have seen it from my face.

Up to here we haven't met a soul

Off we went for the last 5k of climbing. Not exactly champagne gravel but better than before. All of a sudden we saw massive mountains in the horizon and we knew we were in for a treat, wow!

The top was a ski resort dead quiet, nothing open and as hot as hell. We found some shade to eat our cheese bocadillo, at 1pm. Breakfast was a good investment in calories! Reluctantly we moved on in the sun. The descent didn't start immediately as it was a vast flat ground to pass through, but the tarmac started and it was quick going.

Then the descent started and it was a steep one, with potholes that could easily have competed with Edinburgh's ones. The views were amazing, but we were lowering elevation quickly and it felt like we were going into an oven.

We stopped half way through in a small bar for something cold to drink, which we really needed as the heat was taking its toll. It's the first day that I could really feel my body was tired.

We kept going down and got a strong hot headwind...why?! At least the breaks got spared a bit, I really had to push hard!

We finally entered Vielha at 2.30pm in time for the check in, which took ages but eventually at 3pm we entered the apart. Can't believe we won't have to pack tomorrow nor the day after! Shower, foraging, tourism info office, ice cream, and now back to the apart trying to work out how to fill in the next 2 days. It's just too hot!

Vielha day off
Walk to Puero de Vielha (almost...) - 17km 1200m up to 2156m
Wednesday 8 July

Well, all the plan for today kind of went to hell...we are in an apart that belongs to an hotel, and when I checked in yesterday the lady said they organise free day excursions and to show up at 8. We thought we should take today easy and that was a good option. Nothing too demanding and a pleasant way to spend the day. We went to the reception this morning at 8am and found out we were meant to go there at 8pm the previous night!

Plan B was probably even better. We started walking on the only path that there is from the village up to a mountain (yep, no shuttles here, then they complain it's too hot...). Off we went in the morning chill on a nice track in the forest. Steep it was, but that meant we were gaining elevation quickly. We were unprepared for a long walk and only had 1l of water each which we were treasuring as we knew the heat will come later.

In 1h 30min we were up in the malga with the cows. The tree line stopped there and the sweat was coming down in buckets. Little break for a bar and then we pushed on. The plan was to walk up until 11am and then turn back as we just didn't have enough water and there was no fountain along the way.

We reached 2156m, we could almost see the pass at 2400m, where you could see the Aneto mountain, but with no water and the worse of the heat about to come we didn't risk it, plus, it was supposed to be a day off!

We turned back and stopped by a stream in the shade of the trees for our tortilla bocadillo, which went down great, but we didn't linger too long as we only had 200ml of water each. As soon as we got back to the village we stopped at the fountain and feasted.

Back to the flat we finally washed all our filthy clothes and finally there is some chilling out to be done. The sky looked black and we could hear thunders in the mountains, but no rain materialised...

Vielha - walk to Bassa d'Oiles and then Barrand de Gueres -16km and 900m up
Thursday 9 July

Today again it didn't quite go as planned, but again, no regrets. The original plan was to do a 50k ride up to 2500m, with some gravel, but we woke up quite ruined from yesterday and in no conditions to do this route marked as black. Instead we took it easy, checked the hiking map, and opted for something not too demanding.

This was the only option if you have no car, so we set off in the morning chill and headed to next village, then climbed up (here everything is steep) until we reached a little lake and a car park, which was quite full of cars...thankfully everyone went up to a mountain while we followed the route of the Aneto loop. Very scenic and a pleasure to walk.

We got to a picnic area and snacked on our sandwich, then headed back via the high route. By the time we got back to the village it was 1.30pm and we could feel the heath. Rain was supposed to come this afternoon but so far nothing, it all feels so dry.

Back to the flat it was intensive stretching for us both, followed by the tour de France stage which was spectacular. It was a mountain one and where we are heading to: Col D'Aspan and Tourmalet. Tomorrow we set off again (thunderstorms in the morning they say...). It's definitely time to hit the road again, next destination: France!

Vielha to Bañeras de Louchon - 34k and 500m up
Col de Portillon
Friday 10 July

Bye bye Spain! It was a sweet goodbye to the Spanish mountains, and we were set off in good weather despite the thunderstorm forecasts. We were both feeling a bit rusty and apprehensive at the prospect of being on roads, but setting off at 8.15am on the main road to Bossost was nicer than we thought. In 13k we lost 300m of elevation, we had a good shoulder, the road was not too busy and the temperature just perfect (already in a vest at 8am).

In 30min we were at the roundabout where we started the 8k climb. We met way more cyclists than cars and the average gradient was around 7%. We were sweating but not in a worrying way. We reached the col at 10am and took the standard pictures at the sign. We ate our pastry and chatted with a few cyclists, it was quiet and nice and although not demanding it was a great intro to the cols section of the trip.

What does it say?

8.4...oh...

Isn't she beautiful?

The first part of the descent was way steeper than the other side and I could see the face of the cyclists climbing up...that will be us in a few days!

We reached destination very early, like 10.30am, and we are chilling out in a nice park waiting for check in time. I much prefer the vibes in this town than Vielha, which was the typical ski resort place without soul, a bit like being in an airport, you could be anywhere in a ski resort in the world. Louchon feels more real and chilled out, and there are so many cyclists around!

Tomorrow we have another day off (we are taking it easy...) and will probably spend it walking up the mountains, trying to spare our legs as we have 3 days of climbing coming up...


Bañeras de Louchon day off
Walk to Col de la Comme de Cecire - 14km and 800m up
Happy birthday Paul!!
Saturday 11 July (birthday 1)

Plan A was to get the bus to Hospice de France and do a walk from there, but we couldn't work out how to buy the return ticket online, and even after walking 30min to the bus station (in itself quite a surreal experience...), there was nobody there to sell them. By the time we got to the tourist information office they were sold out.

Plan B was to get the cable car up to Superbaneres and walk along the GR10 to get a taste of it (Paulhasalreadyboughtthe map). At 9am sharp we were there and among the first to get on it, although there were already quite a few hikers queuing.

The views as we got off were already sublime, like high mountains everywhere we looked, and they just got better as we climbed up to almost 2300m. We saw a few vultures flying high, and so many dung beetles busy at work.

Pointing to where we were heading tomorrow, give or take

The Marmot in his hibernation den!!!

This time we had 3l of water and thank goodness as we sweated a lot. There was a nice breeze on the top and clouds were coming in which helped, but it's still very hot, like 35 degrees.

Once back Paul celebrated with ice cream and a little siesta. Tomorrow we have 2 passes: Col de Peyresourde (15km) and Col d'Aspin (13km). Are we ready??

Birthday ice cream

Birthday pizza

Luchon to Sainte Marie de Campan - 62k and 2000m up
Col de Peyresourde and Col d'Aspin
Sunday 12 July
Happy birthday 2 Paul!

I woke up at 6am feeling today it would be a damn good day! I managed to make a pretty decent coffee even with the shity coffee maker, huge croissant and bowl of granola. At 7.30am sharp we were outside handing the flat keys back, with a mix of anxiety and excitement for the 2 cols day.

We left a very sleepy Luchan in the morning chill, and after cycling through it all we got on the climb: 15km at an average of 6.5%. It was quiet and pleasant and the kilometres were passing quickly. We just stopped at km 6 at a fountain where I washed my head already...it would be a hot day.

We got to the top of Col de Peyresourde in 1h30" and there was not much there, not even space to stop for pictures. Plenty of cyclists and a car driver driving like a dick I guess to make the point that he was a dick. Thankfully there were not many of his kind.

The descent to Arreau was fast and we saw so many cyclists of any kind going up, way more than cars. For the fist time since we started I was even getting almost chilly, what a blast!!

The village itself was pretty, and at 10am we stopped at a café in the central square for a bite, consisting of a bowl of pasta for me and a cheese bocadillo for Paul, and 2 cokes of course, today we would need them!

We also found an English dad and son who were having a snack before they set off for Col d'Aspin, and then they also had the Tourmalet. I thought they started in Luchon but Paul said they just started there, past 11am, and there were already more than 30 degrees. I hope they survived the day...

a quick pasta snack at 10.30am

At 11am we started on climb number 2: 13k long at 7% average, in 30+ degrees, it was death, and a slow one! The start up to k -5 was well graded, but there was not much shade. We were both feeling the heat and had to stop at every 1 to 2 km to drink and cool down. We were not the only ones, we met a father with son and daughter doing exactly the same thing and had a good chat and plenty of laughs ("you are carrying extra wait", "yes, mostly in my belly!").

Pointing to where we were heading

Eventually we reached the top and got rewarded with beautiful views. It was such a relief that neither got a heat stroke, and despite being Sunday the roads were not too busy either, definitely better than the Alps.

At 1pm we started the descent and stopped after 6k in a hamlet where there were a few restaurants. We stopped at Le Marmottes, which was the only one with a vegetarian option. We were greeted with the usual French welcome, like pfff, why are you here bothering me? It kind of got a little less grumpy later on. Thankfully we were not in a hurry and were pleased with the long wait (check in is at 4pm), and eventually got to eat 2 vegetarian burgers and drunk lemonsoda and 3l of water in 2.

A few more melting km down the valley and we are now in Sainte Marie de Campane, getting shelter from the sun by the church while waiting 4pm. My stomach is revolved and I could sleep here, thank goodness we are not climbing the Tourmalet today (we have just seen the father and son going up, it's 3.30pm).

I bet Paul won't forget this birthday!

feeling the heat

rough living...

The birthday surprise came in the afternoon after we checked in and watched the stage of the Tour de France (go Pidcok!!): swimming pool time!! Thank goodness we brought the swimming costumes.

Sainte Marie de Campane to Luz Saint Sauveur
Col de Tourmalet - 39km and 1400 up
Monday 13 July

I woke up thinking "señor dame la fuerza", but if you wanted the bike then you have to pedal, literally. I've been waiting for this climb for ages, it's one of the iconic ones and the thought that all the people I admire, from Lael Wilcox, Omero, Josh Ibbett etc have tested themselves there, added some spice to the excitement.

The Tour de France was here last week on a spectacular stage. Tadej Pogačar went up in 45:35 min, it would have taken us much longer...

We started strong with a good breakfast. For the first time in this trip there was cappuccio, so I got 2, plus croissant, bread with jam, egg, bowl of fruit and yogurt. This would have powered me up the first 15k.

The heat really got me the day before. The bit from the church in Sainte Marie de Campan (the official start of the climb), to the hotel felt like 5km away and on a very steep descent. This morning it was just a 1k climb on a decent gradient. There were clouds around (and a kite), and it felt nice and cool.

We left at 8am and stopped at the fountain by the church to fill in the bottles. The traffic was already insane, and all drivers drove like dicks. It was definitely a different climb compared to the previous ones...

We checked the board with the gradients and I promise I just saw an easy first 5k and then a couple of 7, a few 8 and 9. I definitely didn't clock in the 10%! The climb is 19km with an average 7.4%.

There was also the statue of Eugène Christophe, in memory of his saga back in 1913. The unfortunate man had used the Tourmalet to go into the overall lead and was leading by 18 minutes when his fork snapped. As no outside assistance was allowed to competitors at that time, he had to walk 14km to Sainte Marie de Campan and then craft a new fork in the village forge...

born ready...

Off we went enjoying the mercy of the first few kilometres. I was sweating a lot but as we climbed it didn't feel as bad as the days before. After 5Km things got steeper. We were stopping at every couple of km to drink water and started to be overtaken by everything that breath (I promise I saw Sofiane Sehili coming down and waving at us..probably an hallucination, who needs lsd when you can cycle up steep cols?!).

By km 12 we were already high up and the views were engaging me more than the odometer, what a place, no wonder is so well known! At km -4 we reached the ski resort of La Moungie, where we thought there was a shop where we could get a coke, but we didn't find it, so we stopped to take in the views, get a bar, refill the bottles, and let the sweat dry up a bit. Honest I could have shrunk the vest and shorts and get a lot of water out of them. It was not cold but I could feel it was not boiling hot as usual either.

It was the countdown. Most cyclists going up were road cyclists on very expensive bikes, outfits and serious looks (on the top I may have asked Paul "is there a more beautiful bike than Delphine?" He looked around at hundreds of bikes worth 10grands...) Then there was us...one of them complimented us on the climb with the bags, bravo! I don't think he was taking the piss, but we were almost at granny gear speed so I wonder who would go slower than that..maybe the kid on the Decathlon bike who was heading down...

Anyway, the last few km were a killer, especially the last one. We couldn't even see the pass until we went on the other side, and then the spectacle opened up, wow!!! Stuff from another world honest. The feeling of personal satisfaction up there is unique, and you even think, that was not that bad! It took us 2h 30min with all the breaks (remember Pogačar 45"...) and I was starving!

We took a few pictures and sat by the massive statue of Octave Lapize, the first to win the Col at the Tour (300+ k stage with 2 gears...I'm a sissy). We ate the €12 bocadillo we got from the hotel, which at least was delicious, with cheese, cherry tomatoes and pesto, and the miracle happened: at 2150m, with clouds, I felt COLD!!!! The jacket got finally out og the bag, but not the gloves, it can't have been so cold...

We got our stickers and postcard and reluctantly we started on the descent. I normally shit myself on alpine climbs, but this was extremely scenic and enjoyable. We stopped a few times to take pictures and stopped at a village 10k down the valley at a café. It was noon and for lunch I got myself another cappuccino and a massive pastry called "foot of the bear". No regrets whatsoever, best lunch ever.

Paul says I'm somewhere here

Best lunch ever

It got hot again and the last few km of descent felt great. When I checked the odometer I saw that at some stage I hit 85.7 km/h, which is really not like me (I'm scared of myself), but in places the tarmac was so smooth and the road straight that it didn't even feel like it, although I do remember thinking "maybe I should break a bit".

Almost at the end Paul arrived in panic saying "I got stung by a bee". I did have the antihistaminic pills, but thankfully it was probably a painful horsefly.

The Queen of the descents!!!

At 1pm sharp we arrived in Luz in our very weird apartment. The usual routine kicked in and after a helpful trip into town we have tomorrow figured out, although so far none of our A plans worked out, so who knows what we will end up doing? Tomorrow is also the Day of the Bastille, I repeat, who knows what will happen?

Luz Saint Sauveur
Walk from Garvanie to Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m) + waterfall - 15km and 860m up
Tuesday 14 July

We had a leisurely star of the day as the only bus to Gavarnie was at 10.18am (it turned up at 10.45am...). Today it was hot, like 37 degrees hot, and we were ready to boil.

We walked to a very sleepy, and probably hungovered, Luz and wondered around to kill some time. The bus took us on a nice road along a valley with steep mountain walls, and as we approached destination we started to see the UNESCO site of the Cirque de Garvanie, what a place.

Finding glass recycling points is hard job in France, worse that climbing the Tourmalet!

We walked past the sleepy village and got on the path, which started climbing steeply from the start in the forest, thank goodness as we were melting already. It was a nice stony path, until we emerged out of the forest and the show began: mountains after mountains of the high and imposing kind.

The last bit was steep but we could see the refuge nested on the top, a pleasure to walk.

We got there at 1pm and got 2 lemonsodas from a very grumpy man...it's the French style. We then ate our very stinky bocadillo of cheese and tomato, and started the walk down. The bus was at 5.30pm, so we killed some time by walking to the waterfall, so many people! On the way back we rewarded ourselves with a 2 ball ice cream (only €10...), but it was worth it.

Tomorrow it's a demanding day, possibly the one with more climbing so far. We were supposed to take it easy today but I feel shuttered, the heat is really getting to me. Thankfully they say it should start to cool down from tomorrow, let's keep out fingers crossed!

Luz to Laruns - 68k and 1500m up
Col de Souleur and Col d'Obisque
Wednesday 15 July

We made it!! And what a farewell to the mountains that was.

We were both dead tired last night and we didn't even manage to gather the strength to go to the village and check out the celebrations. We did manage to watch the first half of the world cup semi final - France vs Spain. Spain won but we couldn't care less, or actually, maybe the fact that the roads were quieter than usual has something to do with this...

We woke up at 6am, got sorted, left the weird apartment and at 7.15am we said goodbye to Luz. The first 20k were a sweet descent down the valley. It was hot and the best start of the day. Coming up were herds of cyclists, but otherwise it was all pretty quiet and a pleasure to cycle.

At 8am we reached the nice village of Argeles. That was the start of the climb number 1 of the day, so we spoilt ourselves to a second breakfast, both for necessity and greed. I got a pain au resin that was bigger than my head, no regrets, and I still wonder why I'm not loosing any weight... We also bought our lunch as we were not sure of the bar situation up the valley. They didn't have any vegetarian bocadillos, so we got some calorie bomb of a kind of pizza/ bocadillo, like covered in melted cheese, tomatoes and possibly some vegetables and packed them on the bike.

I wonder why I haven't lost any weight...

...must be body chemistry, can't find other explanations.

Don't know what Paul had on his stem but this beautiful lady went crazy there

Reluctantly we left the cute village and started on the first climb, which was steep and busy with traffic but at least it was not long. I didn't do my homework the day before and thought it would be 6k but it was 3 or 4, after which it kind of evened and was more of a bumpy kind until km 34. The tops were all covered in mist and clouds, which added a mystic touch as well as prevented the usual waterfall of sweat.

Along the way we passed by the small and cute village of Aucun, which provided water, a free library and loo.

We then entered the magic door. At some stage the clouds disappeared and we entered a valley nested among huge mountains, that came as a very pleasant surprise, and from then on the roads became quiet too, what a treat!

We then reached the proper start of the climb to Col de Solueur, 7km and an allegedly average of 7.5%, which felt much higher (even the signs were not consistent..). That climb was a proper kick in the ass, but slowly slowly we made it to the top. The views helped a lot as it was the best entertainment I could have asked for.

1 sign says 8%, the other 6%...it must be 7% no?

Avanti!

We reached the top at 10.30am in a comatose state. There were also a lot of vultures flying high, and kites. There was some info centre on the top and it turns out this was a very important route for migratory birds...if only I could fly!

We met a Spanish guy on reaching the top who was the copy of Berlin, we had a nice chat and we all took each other pictures. He shoot off for climb 2 while we took some time to reset ourselves - toilet / little snack / suncream / more pictures / check the stats for climb 2.

so many vultures

It was insanely beautiful and we had the feeling that also climb 2 wouldn't disappoint. First it was a short descent to the Cirque de Litour, which in itself was quite a piece of work. Looking down to it at a distance we were both shitting ourselves as it was a bit of a balcony road with no much protection, but then there were not many cars around and it turned out to be fine, ans so scenic! Pity that we couldn't stop to take pictures as it was narrow, but I'll treasure it in my memories.

We then got to the start of the last climb to Col d'Aubisque, 7km at an average of 4.5%. We could see an inversion down the valley and it got bigger as we climbed. We also got to see the famously fierce sheep dogs at work as a herd started crossing just as we were passing through (would you pat me??)

They crossed right where the sign said "careful animal crossing", way more behaved than most people!

We stared climbing again in awe of the view, both down and up, until finally at noon we reached the top, we were done!! I always feel so privileged when I reach a pass, thinking how many more I'll manage to climb, and all those people who would love to but can't.

We had a good break there as it was our farewell to the big mountains. We ate our rolled up kind of pizza (which revolted Paul's stomach but not mine) and after a few pictures we started on the long descent, heading down to the clouds. It was so weird and cool (literally) to see them moving up the mountain but bypassing the road, like walking below a waterfall, and then entered the bank in its coolness (we are NOT melting today!).

damn yes Ours oui! 

We stopped for a break in a very run down village 10k down the valley, then continued to destination where we sat on a bench waiting for check in time.

the town mayor is cooling in the fountain

then came to say hi

light panoramic snack, really, why I'm not losing weight?

It's both a relief and sad to think that the mountain chapter is over, and it's hard to put all the trip done so far in my head, but it's time to move on and think of the plains and the plane...bike boxes!!!

Laruns to Salies de Bearn - 88km and 550m up
Thursday 16 July

We are in low lands!!! We can definitely feel the accumulated tiredness, and mentally the end of the cycle was yesterday. We slept very well and it did cool down at night. Breakfast was at 7.30am, simple but plenty.

We started by going down the valley on the main road, then joined a perfect cycling path until km 20.

We were then on a long road in the forest, which felt like we were cycling in Scotland. Out of the forest it felt like we were in Perthshire, welcome to rural France!

I may have panicked when he barked at me and I started shouting "he has rabies!!!" I think he got offended..

At km40 we reached a big town called Oleran, where we took a good break as we were both literally falling asleep on the bike. We got ourselves a pastry, and lunch for later, and at 11am we moved on for another 20k until we reached the nice village of Navarrainx where we stopped for lunch. For a change we had cous cous and avocado, no cheese bocadillo today!!

French people really like their village libraries, we found one pretty much in any village

Looking at storks flying high

The next bit was first on flat land (we saw 16 storks flying high, possibly on migration?) Than it was a climb, which became a bumpy climb / down, until we finally reached destination, thank goodness because we can really feel it today. At least the sky today is covered and we haven't boiled as usual...

After the usual chill out time / tour the France stage, we hit town and were impressed by how cute it is. It was a pleasure to stroll along the park, see the casino, the canal where back in time they would get salt, and the colourful alleys. It was such a pleasant afternoon that we stopped in a bar for a beer.

All he needs is a newspaper and a dog :) 

Life is good

A glass got us both drunk, we then walked to the Vietnamese restaurant where I got the best meal so far, and the cheapest one too! It was noodles with tofu and veggie...I was really enjoying it and then we noticed that it started raining, like a lot! Our clothes were outside to dry so we shovelled all the food down and run to the lovely b&b in the rain to get them in...as soon as we got there it stopped but it would start again soon, a proper thunderstorm with lightning and thunders. What a treat after so much heat! We both slept very well.

Salies de Bearn to Biarritz - 73km and 500m up
Friday 17 July

We made it!!! What a weird day, I feel like I lived 10 days in one today.

It all started well with a nice breakfast in the quiet b&b. We left at 8.30am and said goodbye to this lovely village. We then got on the eurovelo 3, which started great on a beautiful cycling path in a forest. The temperature was perfect and we were having a great time.

It then turned into a Sustrans kind of route, where you go up and down right and left for ever in rural places (no dogs with rabies today!). We passed by quiet villages, like dead quiet, and then eventually the climbing stage ended and we were on this nice cycling path along a canal. We didn't stop much there as it was mosquitoland, but eventually we found a clearing with a bench for a break and a quick snack (the one from the packed lunch of Sainte Marie de Campan...).

really, isn't she the most beautiful bike?

Off we went again, and we joined the Rio Grande, which was massive indeed. It went on and on, the sky was very clouded with a few drops every now and then. We were really hoping it would not rain today as the bikes had to be packed soon...

At km 62 we passed by the only boulangerie where we could get lunch. It was noon so we got in and got a focaccia with stuff inside.

Things started to go to hell from then on, like really a steep downhill! First the sky opened, like tropical rain, with the bike getting well washed of all the dust of the last 2 weeks. Then there was some misunderstanding, we were trying to kill time waiting off the rain, so I asked Paul to get me either a yogurt or a cappuccino. He got back with a pot of pannacotta and the cappuccino. I got a bit of an indigestion but the rain stopped and it was time to go. I cycled through a big puddle and my ass got socked (no big mudguards on), then it turned out it's some festivity in Bayonne, and the herds of people dressed in white and red came up from every side...like the time we cycled back home with the Taylor Swift concert. The cycling path was closed and we got on the busy road, like a mess everywhere. We were following the signs to an airport that never came, up and down down and up, until finally we reached it at 1.30pm, and the bikes were dry too!!

10k from packing the bikes...after 2 melting weeks the first downpour...why???

We got the boxes and all the packing went well, we even got a big taxi to put them on and the driver was super nice. We thought all was done...until we realised that the hotel I booked is down by the beach, on a road closed to cars!!! There were barriers and eventually we managed to get through and reach the place, but we are wondering how we get out of here early on Sunday as the reception will be closed... I told him "I'm soooo sorry I didn't know of the barriers!" And as chilled out as you can be he said "mais c'est Biarritz!"

All worked out well at the end

well, with a few surprises maybe

you know that you fucked up badly but you don't even care!

Anyway, we are by the beach and super happy, we will work something out and right now we are watching the end of the tour stage....go Pidcock!!!

We went out to check town and had a lovely time just wondering around. Dinner was a nice poka bowl eaten outside, then walk back along the promenade back to our lovely room, where we spent 1h 30 min just looking at the sea and the sunset, I feel so lucky and privileged, and at the end it turns out I picked the right hotel (ask me again on Sunday...)

Biarritz
Saturday 18 July

We must have been exhausted, or maybe it was the release of stress, as we woke up at 8am, which never happened before.

The room has no coffee machine nor kitchen, so breakfast was improvised but still decent. We then walked to the centre to have a proper coffee, and then to the Grand Beach where finally I achieved my second objective after the Col de Tourmalet: walk barefoot on the beach.

We went up and down a few times and just loved it (there will be a second round later on...). Another walk in town, shopping, back to the flat for lunch. Life is good!

blissful youth

The afternoon was more of the morning. This time the tide was low and at 1.15pm we went to the most beautiful beach ever, like the perfect one, long, hard for walking but soft and stone free. It must have been 2km long and we went up and down until almost 4pm. The sky was overcast but it turns out we got lightly roasted anyway, thank goodness it's the last day!

Back to the flat we watched the tour with a mountain stage, we then went for the best ice cream of the trip and had dinner in the best restaurant with the best view: on the balcony of our room with Carrefour food and beer...

The sunset was amazing, a red ball slowly sinking into the see. I did nothing today and yet I was exhausted, I fell asleep in no time (waken up at 2am by a couple who was swimming naked ?)

It's definitely time to head back home. The return is a very slow process with lots of queues and waiting, but all the trip went so well that I can hardly believe it. The Pyrenees have been kind to us, but, if you are vegan, go somewhere else or you starve!

I miss cycling already :)