Let me out let me be gone: Aletsch Gacier + ½ Tour of Monte Rosa

The trip from Scotland to Brig went very smoothly. Plane was on time, me managed to get the 3pm direct train that took us to Brig at 5.30pm. It was very windy and the weather unstable, but we got to our nice hotel located by the castle dry. Dinner was a salad at a weird self service place, followed by a walk around town, followed by rain...the start wasn't the best but it definitely got better!

Brig to Rideralp - walk cancelled booo

The sign that we will be blessed..

We woke up and the sky was grey, by 8am it started raining and it just got worse, the clouds were very low and we could see nothing. The hiking got cancelled and after checking out at 11am we went to buy our lunch and then hid in the train station. We were not the only ones with the same ideas, it seems the weather cancelled the plans of quite a few people.

waiting off the rain

By 2pm it got better, so we got the train to Moller and the cable car to Rideralp, which is at 2000m. When we got off the fog was so thick that we could barely see at 10m distance. We went from the 600m of the valley to 2000m and it was cold! We got our dinner at the Coop and went to check in at the Berghaus Toni at 4pm.

The room was OK but nothing much in it (no tv, kettle, blankets etc but thank goodness there was heating), all of this for only £176! At least we had big windows and a huge balcony, pity that it was freezing cold and we could see nothing... I was reading under the blanket when I looked out and could finally see a few mountains coming and going, wow!!! The clouds came and went but it was promising...we both slept well.

Brig to Grengiols - 18km and 1000m
Saturday 22 August

Breakfast was actually quite nice, and we knew the clouds would lift. We left at 9am with 2 fleeces and jackets but as we started climbing the layers came off.

After a while we reached the point where you could see the glacier, far away but still a show. Up to the cable car we were the only people around, what a privilege, all this beauty just to ourselves.

The Aletsch Gacier is the largest and longest glacier in the Alps, stretching about 23 kilometers. I found out about it when I was looking at the Swiss Alps 100 race, and I have no idea why neither me nor anyone I know has ever heard of it as it's easily one of the must see wonders of this world, before it disappears... :(

We took picture after picture, and the more we approached the glacier the better it got. There were people around but not the herds I was expecting, possibly because the bad weather in the morning put people off. The clouds were still wondering around and would uncover majestic peaks out of the blue, until they finally disappeared in the early afternoon.

The panoramaweg was indeed one of the most beautiful walks we ever made, so glad we were here in decent weather.

It was a bit bumpy and technical in places, but even the bit across the boulder field was so manicured that it felt like walking on a red carpet.

Eventually we said goodbye to this ancient beauty and turned the corner towards the South. Here there were a lot of people, but we soon left them behind and got to the 1km tunnel (we are still wondering why it was built) and got on the other side.

We were on a wide track up to the cable car to Fisch. By then it was 3pm and we decided to fork out the CHF 20 each to avoid the steep descent to town.

We then went to get our dinner and lunch as there is nothing in the village we are staying (still wondering who on earth would stop here, in hindsight, we should have stayed in Brig and move around by train...). We got the train and then walked up a steep road to the Port a Port guest house we are staying tonight.

The welcome was very weird, and the room even more so, but at least we are in a good spot to start the walk tomorrow. Can't believe it took us so long to walk 18k today!

Grengiols to Brig - 21km and 1800m up
Sunday 23 August

I didn't know what to expect today but it turned out to be a wonderful walk.

We asked for an earlier breakfast at 7.30am and thank goodness. It was nothing special but we stuffed ourselves with bread and muslie with yogurt, the kind that keeps you going until noon and takes you up 1300m in 5k... Jesus it was steep! We realised as we set off at 8.30am that we were at the bottom of the village, and it was pretty vertical going up to the centre.

long way up...

no matter how long the climb is, always time for berry picking!

After a short bit of flat on the road (and a false start up another path...thanks garmin!), we found our path and from there it was a vertical line at at least 25%, relentless. We reached 2000m of altitude at which point there was the option to get on a gravel road. No brainer! It was 4km long instead of 1 but it took us to the same point and with better views.

I wonder why I haven't lost any weight

We could see all the high mountains of the previous day, but in sunshine, what a show! We finally reached the top and it was worth every single drop of sweat:

There were a few people on ebikes but we met no hikers, I wonder why... It was a beautiful view of peaks of any kind from the other side too, so glad we did this walk.

The gravel road went slightly downhill and showed the other side of the valley.

Time to climb again, this time on a pasture with cows. We stopped for lunch before reaching the pass, and enjoyed our bocadillo with boiled egg and tomatoes (even Paul is fed up of cheese, unthinkable!!!). The bread didn't quite go down well with my stomach and my belly was not happy, but still, it didn't spoil the day. An inquisitive cow followed us and was reproached when she got too close for comfort, sorry! No idea what we were meant to do on her cow world.

We kept going until finally we reached the Saflisch Pass at 2540m, and could see what we think was Monte Rosa in front of us, just stunning!

The wind was strong and cold up there and the fleece went on. The descent was very pleasant, on a nicely graded and good path until we got to some restaurant. Hot again, and I must have lived in Scotland for too long as I can't just handle the afternoon heath any more. We could see the valley and Brig below and it was still a way to go.

It was a steep descent to Rosswald from there, where there is a cable car . No brainer...we got on it and since there was nobody we got on for free, CHF28 saved, which I'm very proud off since everything is ridiculously expensive there and we felt constantly ripped off.

It was still 5 k to destination in residential areas, so we got the bus back to hot Brig and went to check in the Good Night Sleep hotel, which is weird and massive (167 rooms), with a feel of the 70s with all the rotating models and trains toys. A bus of elder people arrived and we were the youngest for a change...

We then went to the train station to check the bus times for tomorrow, and then for the first time since we arrived we went out for beer and pizza (only CHF 66!! all the shops are closed on Sunday...). It was really enjoyable to eat on the square, and the pizza went down very well.

This was followed by a very good ice cream for Paul, and then we collapsed in the room.

Thank you Baby Seal!

Mattmark to Macunagna - 16k and 700m up, and 1500m down
Monday 24 August
Passo Moro 2860m

What a weird and beautiful day, I just can't get it all in my head.

We woke up with am amazing red sunrise, I knew it would be a great day.

Breakfast was from 7am, and to beat the bus of elderly we went there sharp but they were there already... the breakfast room was massive, I've never been in such a huge one before.

Clear sky!!!!

We stuffed ourselves of bread, jam, egg, yogurt and burcher muslie (the last one I'm afraid...), checked out and went to Migros to get our lunch (which at the end we didn't even eat...), and then to the bus station to get the 8.45am bus to Saas Grund Post. This was followed by the 10am bus to Mattmark which we reached at 10.30am. The sun was out and strong and we were already at 2200m of elevation. There was a huge dam there and most people must have been there as we met close to nobody afterward, as usual, 100m away of a car park it gets dead...

It took us 30min to reach the other end of the dam, from where the climb to Passo Moro started. We ate a few biscuits there and at 11am we set off. It was hot but we could see clouds moving around the peaks, at least we got a good view of Monte Rosa and its glacier, thank goodness as that may be the last sight we get of it!

The start was on a nice rocky path, until we crossed the big glacier river (and got water), looked crossed eyed at a couple with a loose dog (signs saying "dogs on lead" but then they are the new gods and who gives a shit of wildlife? Grrrr).

The interesting bit started shortly after. It was basically an insane steep climb of stones that went on forever, honest it was mind blowing! The clouds moved in and it was all surreal, like in a dream that you hope will end well...

At some stage we saw this massive statue up in the clouds and we knew we were approaching the top. We stopped to put on layers and to eat a bar (our lunch I guess), and then we tackled the last bit, with a few ropes and steps, without having a clue where we were as it was all covered in clouds.

Funivia my ass!!!!

We reached the Madonna delle Nevi, and with it the border to Italy, welcome to La Patria! And what an entry, this must be the most fucked up border crossing! The golden Madonna delle Nevi statue is nearly 5-meter-tall bronze statue was dedicated in 1966, and later gilded with gold leaf in 1997 to honor the historic local gold mines of Macugnaga.

We knew there was a Rifugio down there, and it was an endless staircase of steps (230, originally rock-carved steps then restored and secured in 2019) to get there. It was all silent and nobody around.

We got in The Rifugio and it was so warm and welcoming. We spoilt ourselves with strudel and when I asked for lemonade he asked "with beer?" ...no thanks, I have a long descent ahead...

The way down was long indeed (there is a cable car there but it was closed for maintenance they say...in the other valley I was told it has all been closed because of an accident and nobody wants to invest to restore it). As we descended the clouds cleared up a bit and we stopped for a snack and there was this chamois who was really pissed of at us, like hissing and going around in circle...time to go.

The descent was indeed endless and steep but on kind of decent paths.

Spanish speakers will have a good laugh...

We finally reached destination at 4.40pm, and this is indeed a nice village! We checked in and when I gave the passports she said "finally Italians on the Tour of MR!". I said "we live in Scotland...I already understood how it works here, we only met foreigners!". We met a few lost souls and all were foreigners on the Tour of Monte Rosa, definitely not as popular as the TMB!

We went to forage and the rain started straight away, but we are in this beautiful mini apart and couldn't be happier! Hopefully we will see the mountains tomorrow.

our beautiful mini apart

Macunagna to Alagna Valsesia - 26km and 1600m up and 1600m down
Tuesday 25 August
Passo Turlo, 2738m

We woke up at 6 am and the clouds were low, it really rained a lot last night... Thankfully they lifted a bit by the time we had our homemade breakfast (stale bread with tomato, huge bowl of porridge with apple which was actually delicious).

Monte Rosa is finally out!!!

We left at 8am in a very quiet village with a glimpse of Monte Rosa. The path out of town was broken because of a fallen bridge, and there were no signs...great start! We retreated our steps and followed the road down to the next village where there was a bridge. It was a lovely old hamlet with a huge green pasture with horses (a baby horse!), and from there we got back on the path.

The climb started there on a wet stone staircase in the forest. A lady was passing by and asked if we were out for a stroll...we are going to Alagna we said. A pero'! She was out hoping to find mushrooms for her risotto and wished us a good walk, which is a great way to start the day.

The path took us up a dam, surrounded by a huge amphitheatre of mountains. We were going somewhere up there...

It was a wide land-rover track to start of and deer were around. We were in great mood, especially because the Cicero guide said it was a very good path all the way... I've heard that before!

From there things started to degenerate...first there was a river crossing with no bridge, and in spate. After some checking around we found a way through, and then a scramble up to rejoin the path. We started to be in high alert, and with good reason since a good chunk of the path was by the river and quite washed out, both by the river and by all the waterfalls coming down, it was basically all a wall of waterfalls... Some bits required thoughtful negotiation and feet in the water, but my Salomon Speedcross wtp proved excellent, I got out with dry feet! Paul not so much...

We met 3 big guys coming down and I asked if it was all this shit. They said there was a bit of a boggy bit and it improved as we climb with a few waterfalls. Obviously they don't live in Scotland as our understanding of boggy field is different... Thank goodness we were out of the worse bit, with really no bog and all the water on the path could be bypassed by hopping on rocks. I didn't envy those coming down...

We had a break and a bite at 11am, and from there the path was an excellent mule track, reason being that it was a historic route where back in time people would walk from valley to valley to exchange goods. It kept climbing in switch backs and although there were clouds around they were high up, we think we could even see the Passo Moro from the day before, finally!

The gradient was good but the ascent was never ending. We got on the high rocky bit and at 1pm we stopped for lunch, thinking it would be cloudy and cold on the other side. The watch said we only had 89m of climbing left, which was a relief as we knew the descent would be long too.

After a few switch backs we finally saw the pass and at 1.30pm we finally got there in sunshine!

We haven't met many people all day (all those on the Mont Rose tour were British), but at the pass there were a few elder British ladies who were going the other way. We had a chat and warned them of the flooded bit below, really hope they made it there safe.

It was such a pleasure to be there in sunshine, in good time and not even too ruined. We stopped for pictures and then started what was supposed to be a 3h descent.

The path was rocky but with a good gradient. We only met a man going up otherwise it was dead quiet.

We stopped after 1h for a bite, then continued and at a corner we got another glimpse of Monte Rosa, who is really shy as we never managed to see it all.

We were 30min away from a Rifugio when we met a couple going up. They had no rucksack and I was wondering where they were going, when the man asked how far the Rifugio was...I told him it was 30min down and his face! In return I asked them an equally idiotic question, if we were still in Piemonte...we are. I couldn't understand how they missed the Rifugio, since it was actually very big, but the sign posting was really bad, more like there was none, so no wonder!

We wanted to get on the road ourselves but missed the turn and instead had the finisher of the day: a vertical staircase of stones down the forest (a mountain biker was going down there too pushing the bike... we were all lost!)

Finally we got on the road and it was 4k from there to the village, by the road. Such a relief to finally reaching destination at 5pm. We are staying at the beautiful Hotel Cristallo and the lady gave us a great welcome, the room is massive, like it could be an apartment, views on the mountains, and I can't wait for dinner as I'm starving (the only shop in town is closed on Tuesdays booo).

Dinner was very disappointing, tiny portions and posh vibes, and children crying at every table. Most disappointingly, we went for a stroll in town (which is much bigger than I thought and pretty) and we found out that the shop was actually open on Tuesdays. Never trust Google in Italy...

Tomorrow is another big day with even more climbing, will we manage?

Alagna Valsesia to Staffal - 19k and 1800m up
Wednesday 26 August
Passo d'Olen, 2881m - getting higher and higher!

At 7am sharp we were having breakfast with only 1 family with a child. I stuffed myself as much as I could (like 1/2 kg of muslie and yogurt), got our packed lunch (a bite of a sandwich, peach and 2 biscuits for only €12...), and at 8am we left the sleepy village ready for a damn good climb.

We started in the forest and it was steep, but I saw a red squirrel and that always cheers me up.

At 9am we reached the cute hamlet of Otro, where Paul had a toilet emergency so we went to get a coffee (number 4 of the day...). When we left at 9.30 there was an helicopter who dropped some people, then came back and picked one another, speechless. If someone comes complaining that it's too hot or wet I promise I kick them in the balls.

Up we went and the path got a bit less steep, until we reached cowland where it got steep again, like a lot. At 11am we haven't reached the fist pass yet (Foric at 2400m), but we were both a bit peckish and stopped for a bite. The clouds were around and covered the tops, but occasionally we could get a glimpse, which was great as had it been sunny I'd have been cooked.

The first pass was not far away and we reached it soon after. We could now see on the other side, the one of the cable cars, it all felt so surreal. The next bit took us on a short descent which was a bit tricky in places, but thankfully it was short and nothing of the kind since then.

We started climbing and met a few folks who took the cable car and were walking down, all very impressed that we were going up, pretty depressing if you ask me.

We only knew where we where by the elevation the garmin gave. We stopped for our bite bocadillo 50m to the col, but we were really hungry, it was clouds everywhere and a bit chilly, and we thought the other side may be colder... It was a short 10 min to Passo d'Olen, and as we approached I said the Baby Seal would fart gently and move the clouds...and she did! As we got there the sky cleared, and the other side was clear too, and there was nobody there, it was the perfect moment and the perfect reward for climbing 1800m!

We stopped to take in the beauty all around, and then regretfully we started the descent. It was all so quiet and beautiful, like with an autumn feeling, and we also got to see Mama ibex with her baby sitting on top of a rock above checking us out, what a welcome to Val d'Aosta, we are back!!!

We got down to where we thought we could get the cable car to Staffan and avoid the last 500m of descent, but it turns out it stopped working 3 days ago...as usual Google didn't catch up.

The first bit was really steep vertical style, but then it kind of got better and in 1h we were down at destination, which we reached at 4.45pm. As we reached it, a poor man was going up and asked how long it was to the Rifugio. He thought he would get the cable car too but the plan went to hell...we couldn't really sugar coat the truth and hope he made it there by dinner...

We checked in and the lady was really weird, then we went to get goodies at the shop, ate them (just a light snack of noodles and peas...) and then the usual. The dinner was better than last night, well, at least we were not starving to start off with... We both had polenta with mushrooms and of course cheese, which filled us pretty well.

Staffal to Rifugio Guide Frachey - 11k and 1000m up
Thursday 27 August

For a change we woke up with a clear sky and we could even see Monte Rosa!

Breakfast was at 7.30am and we ate plenty - mental note, never again cheesecake for breakfast, it's pure greed and doesn't sit down well...

We were on the at 8.15am and it was a steep climb from the start, not too inspiring as we were on the skiing track but we gained elevation quickly and got great views of glaciers and blue sky.

In 1h we reached the junction to the proper path. Another climb followed with a few cute donkeys there to cheers us up, the clouds were gathering which was bad for the views but great for sweat reduction. We reached another ledge at 2400m (Staffan is at almost 1900m so we had it easy today...). A quick stop and then up the the final push to the Col, which we reached alone, and the other side had no clouds (yet) so we could actually see something...even the head of the Matternhorn!

We took it easy as we knew it would be a short day and had another good break there.

We then started the descent, and after an easy bit the boulder field started. The stones were big but the path was clearly marked and well done, which made the job of crossing it much easier.

We got back on the nice and easy path and after a steep bit we found a nice pasture and a flat stone which was calling us, come to me! It was noon and we had our first bite there (cheesecake finally digested), and then just laid down and relaxed which was great as we hadn't had the chance yet since we started this hike.

The sun disappeared and reluctantly we moved on. The path started climbing, and we heard noises like a dog, followed by howling, which went on and on...we are pretty sure that it was a pack of wolves from the other side of the mountain. We couldn't see them but just hearing them made our day, it was the wildest thing I could dream of.

The sound went on and on and then got more distant, so we headed up to the top of the climb and on the other side it was dogs and pigs, how things change quickly!

Listening to the wolves, what a privilege

The top mountains were all covered but we could glimpse at glaciers here and there. It was past 1pm, lunch time (we finally ate the boiled eggs we bought in Rideralp...). It was a beautiful spot regardless of the clouds, and wasting time felt great.

At 2pm we moved on towards our Rifugio, it was less than 1h on easy paths and finally here we are. We got a fright as there is another Rifugio just above ours, which was packed full of children with a sign Azione Cattolica. Had we been there I promise I would have walked the 4k down the valley to the first village!

The other surprise is that we have a room to ourselves, shower was great and we now need to kill 3h to dinner, but we are sitting outside in the sun with good views and will start to pray soon for some good weather tomorrow, or at least not pissing rain. The forecasts are mixed and we have our last pass at 2900m and I really don't want to be there in rain...

Dinner was pleasant, we were in 6: a couple of Polish youngsters who were salmoning the TMR too, and a couple of Dutch there for 3 days on random day hikes. We had risotto drowned in cheese, polenta with a chickpea pattie and pannacotta. We then plaid cards where I lost badly (to be added to the black book) and then off to sleep. Our stay was way better than I expected.

Rifugio Guide Frachey to Cervinia - 18k and 1100m up
Friday 28 August

Spoiler: we made it!!! And what an eventful day!
Motto of the day: today not fucking around.

We woke up with clouds but they were high, Paul checked the forecasts and rain it would be. I asked a man who was there what he thought about walking our route and he said we would be ok... The thought of using public transport and be around waiting for buses all day was quite off putting, much better to walk in pissing rain to 3000m...that says it all about public transport in Italy.

Breakfast was a bit on the skinny side but it set us going. As we were having breakfast the rain started, but the girl of the Rifugio (who has never walked up there) said it would clear by 9am...oh yes... We were the first to leave at 8.15am and the jacket was on.

The first bit was kind of bumpy flat in the forest and at least we could get some shelter from the trees, then we climbed a bit and the good news was that, despite the rain, we could at least see something. At that stage I started questioning what we were doing, but then the bus option came back to me and no way!

It was a steep climb on rocky steps and we stopped under a tree for a short break thinking it would be our last dry one. Then up again and the rain was coming down strong, but as we climbed we could see mountains around and it was just worth it. The heavy rain came in waves and occasionally we could get a respite with some mild spitting.

We reached a big pasture and saw a couple of ruins and we went under the frame of the entrance door of one (all the rest of that hut was missing, including the roof) and it started raining heavily again. We took the chance to eat something (my last linzer mini cake!!), put on the waterproof trousers and a fleece, and the waterproof gloves, and we then started climbing again.

We had to cross a few rivers and it was all fine, like we could hop on rocks and not get the feet wet, but one of the last ones was a braided stream and there was no way to hop on rocks, it was shoes off for me (it was still raining...) and Paul just got his shoes soaked. The water was freezing cold as it came down from the glacier (forgot to mention that massive glaciers were above us having a good laugh). Normally I would sit on a rock and wait until they dry but there was no option there as all was wet. I amazed myself at balancing with the big rucksack while standing on one foot at a time and put the sock and shoe on. I thought the wet foot would wet the sock but it felt sooo warm, like when you get a hot shower when your feet are blue of cold.

Soon after we met a couple of guys coming down, of course they were British (no bloody way an Italian would be walking in this weather!) and looked very strong. Nice day for a walk I said! They were coming down from the pass, drenched, we told them that river was difficult and to get the shoes off, but really they were drenched anyway...and they were heading to the Oreste Hutte, which is the one waaaaaay above Staffal. They would have done 40k that day...I really hope they made it there safe.

Just ahead we saw a kind of overhanging rock (not really, but it gave some shelter from the wind and rain) and stopped for another bite and to put on more layers. We realised that it truly felt like being in Scotland, like in Skye, it was just stunning, and above all we were loving it! (Did I mention the alternative buses option??)

The true miracle happened there...the rain kind of stopped and the clouds were clearing from the mountains. Still 'atmospheric' but we could see all the wonderful mountains and glaciers around us. I still can't believe we have been so lucky.

We reached a mini ledge by a glacial lake and from there it was the last steep push to the top, the Col Superior di Cime Bianche, at 2990m, which we reached at 12.15pm and relatively dry (the wind dried us up a bit, but not Paul's shoes), and we could even see the mountains around, but not the Matterhorn which was supposed to show up in front of us.

What a moment that was, we made it up there safe, had a great day (I actually really enjoyed this walk, I must have lived in Scotland for too long...), and we were now in well known territory, the valley of Cervinia!

We took a few pictures and didn't linger much longer as we knew the rain would start heavily at 1pm.

The path down was easy and at 1pm we were down at 2700m. There was a ski lift building there which was closed but gave us shelter while we had our lunch, that pouch of Spanish grains has never tasted better, we were starving!

We continued the descent on the path n.16, which we have done before and knew well. We met nobody. It was a steep descent which made it fast, and by 2.30pm we were in town, with a face of "has this really happened?".

We checked in the Hotel Europa where we stayed before and as we were sorting all our wet kit and had a shower the sky really opened, like heavy rain and also lightening and thunders, can't believe we got away so light, and really hope the Polish kids made it down safe too. We thought they would have overtaken us on the ascent but never saw them again...

At 4.30pm it finally cleared and we went to town for some foraging. Now finally relax time! Today was epic, I won't forget this walk any time soon.

Paul's staple diet

We could see the Matterhorn from our room, and it was full moon, looking at it at night was magic and set me for a very good night sleep.

Cervinia - Col Teodulo + Col Superior di Cime Bianche- 23km and 1700m up
Saturday 29 August

I couldn't have wished for a better way to end this trip, and what a difference since yesterday. The high altitude training worked, without rucksack we were flying!

Breakfast was good, and a lot, but the xxxxl croissants filled with 1/2 kg of custard were replaced with tiny ones...enshittification here too. Nevertheless I stuffed myself and the food kept me going until 1.30pm...climbing up to 3300m, value for money I'd say. The surprise was finding the Polish kids 2 tables away! They managed to skip the thunderstorm and arrived 30m after us, I felt much better!

By 8.45am we were on the go. The sky was all clear, finally we could see everything. We have done the walk up to the Teodulo Pass 2 years ago, all known territory, a few people around but not too bad. In 3h 15min we were at the Rifugio looking down at the glacier and Switzerland. It still looks beautiful, more so in full sunshine. We had a piece of cake (Paul did, me I was still stuffed...) and lemonsoda, and put on a few layers as it was freezing cold up there.

We then followed the path 15 to the col we did the day before. It was first a a descent, then a bumpy path in moraine land. At 1.30pm I was finally starting to feel peckish and we stopped for lunch.

We then kept going and at 2pm we were in the same place we were yesterday, but this time with full views, what a spectacle!

We sat to eat an apple and who shows up?? The Gipeto!! It flew on the other valley but it was still so lucky to see him wondering around. That was followed 5 min later by 2 Mama Ibexes with their young, not a bad way to close our hiking loop!

From there it was a 2h descent back to town. Now killing time while waiting for dinner, and tomorrow it's the very farewell to the mountains before we had to the plains. I couldn't have had a better trip.