Solstice cycle 2026

 

We still had a few days off, the weather looking better down South, and with a strong wind on day 1 from the South, it occurred to me when we were in the YH in Aviemore: “why don't we do a bit of the South section of the Great North Trail? We have already done the Scottish part years ago, and this seemed like the obvious thing to do.

Day 1 -Penrith to Haltwhistle - 62km - 900m up
Friday 19 June

The weather on Friday was a bit stormy, and glad we didn't get off in Lockerbie as it was coming down in buckets there. Instead we got off in Penrith, where amazingly we could see a few blue patches in the sky. We set off and both my fleece and jackets came off soon.

We started by following the CTC to Alston, on road, and it was a climb to start off with. I was in a great mood and glad to be on the bike, so long since I've done a long ride!

The wind was very strong but for once we had it in our favour. Climbing up those crazy gradients have never been so easy!

We knew it was a short day, but we also knew the sky would open in the afternoon, so we kept a steady pace and just enjoyed looking at the stormy clouds moving all around us while somehow we didn't get wet.

It was time for the big climb to Alston, and we started it...by eating a bar. Energies first! The first bit was merciless, and with the turns we would also get headwind. We haven't met a single cyclist all day and we spotted someone in pink ahead of us. We reached the top together and it was this nice Canadian women doing the CTC on her own, and with so much positivity and good vibes! It was a pleasure to have a chat with her, pity we didn't meet her again in Alston.

The top!!!

Up there it was quite chilly and the jacket went on for the long and beautiful descent to Alston, what a treat! We got in Alston for lunch time and climbed up to the market square where we had our sandwich. I must have got cold in the descent as not even the fleece warmed me up, so we went to a lovely cafe for coffee and cake, both delicious. It was a locals' favourite and the vibes were just great. Everyone we met today was so happy and in such great mood that it felt like they all fed on magic mushrooms, keep it up!

Sweet descent

We said goodbye to Alston and joined the Great North trail. We were on some old railway track and it was lovely, until it turned into overgrown single track and we got out on the road for a bit. The “corridor” to rejoin it after was a bit “interesting”, but it was worth it as we got on an excellent track, and with the strong tailwind we were not even pedalling any more.

The corridor

We reached Haltwhistle at 3pm, in time to check in at the Centre Of Britain Hotel, which turned out to be an old fortified house back in the bandit days. It was a lovely place to stay (and cheap! Compared to the average in Scotland, we feel staying in hotels in Scotland is such a rip off!). We had a nice room on 2 floors, motel style, and while we waited for the rain to ease we got ourselves sorted. We were thinking of cycling to Vindolanda but the sky didn't agree with our plans, so we staid in and rested, got our shopping and enjoyed a nice dinner. We both slept very well.

Day 2 - Haltwhistle to Hawick - 92 km 1200m up
Saturday 20 June

We were exited as the forecasts said 2 days of warm sunshine, but the sky didn't listen and we woke up with pissing rain.... what about the sunshine I was promised?!

We waited it off while having a great breakfast - someone ate a bit too much and for once it was not me. This powered us up until noon and I got the best porridge with berries (hear this Kinlochewe hotel!)  

The start was slow, due to the nature of the roads in Northumberland (crazy steep then down repeat), then to farm tracks full of cow shit and gates, then we were in open moorland which was great but the gradients were insane. At least we got it all to ourselves, and we also got the best soundtrack: skylarks everywhere! We also saw a crèche of baby banded cows, so cute! It was tough going but so pleasant too, I was enjoying it so much that I didn't even mind the mixed quality gravel we had all morning.

20 min later..coming!!!

Listening to the skylarks

Did I say the going was slow? We reacted the Kielder lake at km 40 and followed the NCN10 along it until we got to the cafe, at noon! It took us 3h 30min to cover 45k!! Being Saturday we expected herds of people but it was quiet.

We got at the Kielder cafe at km 45, the only cafe we found all day, and it was disappointing to say the least - the staff was useless, they didn't have any cakes and it took ages to get 2 coffees and pay...we then ate the last 2 slices of panettone, the first food since breakfast. It was weird to get panettone at the summer solstice, but thank goodness we had it as I needed it for the next climb.

We followed the lake route a bit longer, then we got back on the Great North trail, which I don't think is very popular as we haven't met a soul all day!

We started climbing on some descent gravel road until we got to the border with Scotland where the gravel turned into a boggy path. Best and weirdest border cross ever...

As soon as we entered Scotland the path went to hell and it turned into a single track boggy shit of a path. Push the bike it was, and we got to meet a fledgling who couldn't fly yet and was in the middle of the path looking up at us. Today I really had an overdose of cuteness.

We finally reached the top and joined a gravel road. It was a mega descent to the bottom where we got on a tarmac road for a few kilometres. By the it was 2.30pm and we hadn't have lunch yet, and since I didn't have a full English breakfast and I it was 5k I was in hunger crises I made it clear I'd eat my sandwich there - sitting on the road...to the joy of the post man who drove past. We met him 2 more times...where was he going?

We rejoined the gravel and were on a disused railway path, I expected it would be the usual overgrown boggy shit but it was very good quality. At some stage it stopped so we got on a B road to destination, which was great as we had a very fast (finally!) 10km descent to destination, which we reached at 4pm...did I say the going was slow??

The sign at the side says "Edinburgh 64 miles"

Arrived at destination

All the good hotels in Hawick were full, so we stayed at the Hawick Haven apartment. It was ok I guess, but we were not allowed to take the bikes to the flat (we certainly didn't) and for £123 I expected something a bit bigger and modern... But it had all we needed and it was sunny and nice, what else do you want after a beautiful day on the bike?

Day 3 - Hawick to home – 101 km and 1230m up

Sunday 21 June (happy solstice!)

If yesterday we were snails today we were flying. The difference that decent gradients and tarmac make. It was the perfect cycling day – blue sky, warm but not too hot, and no wind. We knew we would have a blast.

I always loved cycling in the Borders, it's so serene and just pleasant. That's what I needed, just a purely enjoyable cycle, with no drama nor surprises.

Today it was mostly known territory. Only the first 30km were unknown, the rest has been well tested tens of times and I just cycled it all with a big smile in my face. We had 4 big climbs and they all felt shorter than usual. There were so many cyclists around, so heart lifting to see!

Today we are in for a treat yuhuu!

We got home at 2pm and it feels like we are in Spain, one week late, but the heatwave has finally arrived. We may not have had the best weather, but I had a great week off and I feel like I've been around for a month.What a great week off!