Fisherfield hike

 

June this year has been rubbish, we had a week off and really wanted to go hiking but we found ourselves looking at flights to Spain. Thankfully we had a very short window of good weather and decided to go for it.

 

We rented a van and headed up North on a rainy Saturday afternoon. We couldn't find any accommodation in Kinlochewe so we ended up in Gairloch instead. We got there at 8pm and went to get a Chinese take away, in a place that looked a bit dodgy. It was, I spent all night with stomach cramps...

at the Chino...weird place

 

The Gairloch Highland Lodge was the typical Highlands hotel...it felt a bit like sleeping at my Grandma (all for only £132!) but it covered the basic... At breakfast we found out that the day before there was an Ironman there... me “in that weather? Fuck...” the guy “Exactly!” 

our room - nothing is functional (see telly...)

Day 1 – Kinlochewe to Carnmore – 26 km and 1300 m up

Sunday 14 June

We woke up with grey skies but the forecasts were consistent that it would have improved. The mini heatwave was indeed short lived, but we made the most of it.

We originally wanted to walk the Fisherfiled 6, but the last Munro looked a bit sketchy and Paul worked out an alternative, we are definitely not purists!

We got to Kinlochewe and left the van at the car park.

Leaving the car, Paul saying: "I can't upload the gpx, we will need to improvise" Me: "Yeah, it's adventure time!!!"

We started on a nice track, the same we followed when we were on the Cape Wrath to Sheneval (we met 2 German twins headed there, who looked relived that they didn't have to share the bothy with us :). We even saw an eagle!

It was about 10km to get to Loch Fada, a fairy tale place and also the place where the good path ended. We started the ascent to Munro number 1: Beinn Tarsuinn. There was a kind of path going up, a bit on the boggy side and fading away in places but 5 stars compared to what we would find later.

leaving Loch Fada behind

ready for adventure!

Half way through we stopped for our lunch as it was past 1.30pm (we were in no rush and only started walking at 9.45am). Recharged, up we went again on a very steep slope, from where we could see the last Munro of the 4, and its looks were a bit daunting indeed...good stuff we didn't have to find out how sketchy that hill was!

We soon reached the top and despite the cloudy sky the views were superb, we were in the last wilderness of Scotland and it does deserve the label!

We didn't linger long as we knew the descent was a bit technical, as well as the ridge to cross before descending to the bealach to hill 2. It was a bit sketchy in places, especially with a big rucksack, but slowly slowly we got to the “tennis court” and the views from there made up for the fear.

on the tennis court

The good news was that you don't need to follow the pinnacle path along the ridge, there is a lower parallel one that is absolutely fine :)

Next challenge was to navigate the pathless bog of the bealach to start the next climb. Amazingly we met 2 people who were heading back. Yet more amazingly, we managed to get to the other side on a straight line, with relatively clean and dry boots!

bog over bog - Paul's shoes wouldn't make it, RIP

Next climb had no path and was steep on grassy ground, the top of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair was covered in clouds, but by the time we got there we could just see a few cloud free views, and wow, what a treat! We could even see where we would end the day, a bit deceitful as it looked like a couple of km as the crow flies, but it would take us another 2.5h to get there!

The descent this time was much easier, rockier but on a descent gradient and a pleasure to walk. We first got down to where the path for Munro 3 (Ruadh Stac Mòr) started and found a group who was heading up (it was 6.30pm!!!). They were also camped down where we were heading and didn't really mind the time. We originally thought we could take it in too, but by then we were way too tired, we had to set up camp and we decided to just head down (they arrived at camp at 9.30pm...).

The surprise was a stream crossing that required boots off. Paul said: “I didn't know about this one”, and me: “you don't trick me any more Ardin!” Shoes off, Crocs on and it was actually very revitalising to wash the feet. The sun was out, and despite the cold wind I was really having a great time!

It was then a long descent on a decent path to Carnmore, which we reached at 7.30pm. We didn't want to stay at the bothy, and that group got the best camp spot by the loch, but we found the ideal place: by a stream, grassy, kind of sheltered from the wind, and flattish.

We set up camp and made our dinner – my favourite giant Firepot Tuscan stew (which my stomach appreciated way more than the Chinese...), which we ate inside the tent as the wind was low and the midges were around in their trillions.

isn't this the best camp spot?

By the time we finished dinner and got sorted it was time to go to bed. The sound of the river was the best lullaby, and when I woke up for a wee at midnight, I couldn’t believe that it was not dark at all, there was just a stripe of red in the horizon, how cool is this?!

Day 2 - Carnmore to Kinlochewe via Allt Bealach nan Sac – 20 km and 700m up

Monday 15 June

We were in no rush, so we first made breakfast (toasted bagels, porridge with trail mix and coffee...better than what we got in the Gairloch hotel!) and ate it inside as it was a bit too chilly outside. Then we dismantled the tent, which was super fast as no drying was required.

By 8am we were ready to go. We passed by the guys in the other camp spot (that was really good!!) and crossed the lake to get on the West side of Fionn Loch.

The sky was all blue and all around was just silence and beauty, one of the perfect moments in life.

Up we went on a steep path to the bealach and the layers came off. It was sad to say goodbye to Fisherfield, but we knew the weather would have turned that evening and although short, we had a memorable time there.

The good news up the pass was that the path all the way down was a 5 star one. We could now see Loch Maree and the road on the other side, it was back to civilisation.

Soon we got to the lodge at the bank of the loch, where you can either go to Poolewe via a very nice path, or if you are as unfortunate as us, via hell to Kinlochewe, with Rufus.

We were walking pass the lodge when this very messy and super excited doggo came barking at us. I was shitting myself as it was quite big too, and with the psychotic look in his eyes. We stopped until it calmed down a bit, then he went on a merry go round in the forest, got back to us and started following us...a bit like Rosita did in Patagonia, but this one was totally fucked up in the head!

We thought we would get rid of him at the first deer fence, but he found a hole and kept following us. On top of that, the path turned into a jungle for a good 8 km. Like fern as tall as myself, or heather bushes that were cutting our legs, at times I couldn't even see the path. To add to the joy, it was infested with ticks and at every 100m we would remove 10 from our legs. At some stage Paul sent an email to the lodge people to say their dog was with us. Good stuff as the guy working there walked all the way to get him...Rufus was not happy but at least we solved one problem...

Rufus!! I almost miss him (no, not really!)

At 1.30pm we were so tired of that shit, hot as the sun was still shining, and hungry that we just stopped on the only rock we found by a stream to get our lunch. So disappointing that what looked like a great path on the map was misery in reality!

It was 4 more k of that, although soon it turned to a different kind of shit: bog! Finally we got to the junction to Slioch, which we were originally planning to climb but after the ordeal of the loch path we just gave up, we were done!

This was the best part of the path

We stopped for a break and then kept going on the final 5k left to destination. “At least we don't have the dog with us” were my first words back in the van. It has been a beautiful challenge, I enjoyed the first day a lot but the last bit really killed me.

It was 4pm and we went to check in to the Hotel, where we got a nice room with a veranda, we really deserved a bit of spoiling!

Burma Road – 45 km cycle loop from Aviemore
Tuesday 16 June

We slept 9h solid. For those suffering from insomnia, come hiking with us!

Breakfast was a bit disappointing (price for the room and breakfast: £160!) but then we had an easy day ahead. The forecasts were right, the sun had gone and the hills were covered in clouds, time to head South!

We got to Aviemore at 10.30am, wondered around the shops, got a proper coffee, and at noon we headed off on the Burma Road, which we did once 11 years ago in preparation for the Great Divide. I can't believe so much time passed! My hair are turning gray, and despite all the stuff we have done since then I still suck at MTB, yeah!

It was a push up (with Peekaboo making weird noises, turned out it was the stones hitting the mudguards), then a very long descent in moorland, and then a lovely cycle in pine forests to Carrbridge, a bit on the road and another cycle path back to Aviemore. It was truly pleasant and enjoyable, exactly what we needed for a recovery day.

the tree of good omens