Let me out let me be gone: Bits of GTA (Grande Traversata delle Alpi) and AV2 (Alta Via 2)+ Col de Nivolet

Getting to Susa
Saturday 30 Aug

It took us 12h to get to the start line, with an alarm clock at 2.30am. Everything went amazingly smooth, the flight was on time and quiet, then we got on the bus and in 50min we were in Milano Centrale. We grabbed a snack, got on the train to Turin, which as usual was packed full, and got, and got there at 1pm. Lunch was provided by a super, a nice pasta with veggies and kefir, and we also got 1 emergency lunch that I'm sure we will carry until the end (we did).

Final train to Susa, which was freezing, empty, brand new and slow as ever, and at 4pm we got off in this beautiful sunny village. It's the third time we get there and it's always a pleasure.

This time we were in an apart in the old town. We went to do some shopping, ice cream and then got the rucksacks sorted.

Walk around the old town and then dinner was at the usual restaurant. I had an enormous plate of tomato pasta and Paul his pizza. We slept very well...

Susa (Il Trucco) to Usseglio, Colle Croce di Ferro at 2546m - 25km and 1200m up
Sun 30 Aug

The original plan was to walk from Susa, but then we thought maybe we can get a taxi and avoid the first vertical to Il Trucco (1000m up in 4km...). Thank goodness we did that or we will still be around... The best €80 spent ever, will never regret it!

We were both quite full and I only managed musli and apple for breakfast. At 8am we got on the taxi and Aldo was so nice, like the best driver ever, never got angry, nice to talk to, and driving with calm on a steep, twisty and narrow road all the way up. We got off at 8.45am in a crystal clear sky and looking at mountains everywhere. We could even see the Colle della Finestra and the valley to Bardonecchia. So many memories!

|Leaving the nice apartment...adventure time finally!

Starting off in Il Trucco after a handy taxi ride

The path was on the flattish side for the first bit. After passing through cow fields we got in a gravel road that was contouring the mountain. At the end of it we got on a steep path and saw our first marmot. The going was steep and slow. We haven't met a soul until then but spotted 2 groups of people up the path. When we overtook the first one they said "let the young ones go' ...I haven't heard that in a long while!

Pointing to il Colle della Finestra, where we cycled on the Turin Nice

Leaving Susa behind

From there it was a short and flat bit to Rifugio Ravetto, where we were hoping for a drink but it was closed. In 10 more min we reached Colle Croce di Ferro at 2546m, what a show that was! On the way up we could see both the plains and huge mountains with glaciers all around us.

It was not even noon and both our bellies were playing up, so we didn't stop long (it was sunny but quite chilly up there) and started the long and steep descent down to Malciaussia, where there was a dam and herds of people, cars, motorbikes (there was a paved road to get there and it was Sunday).

The path was rocky but very well maintained, we only started seeing people almost at the bottom,the dogs and pigs kind of, and also a big bunch of cute donkeys. Finally at the lake we stopped for lunch. The benefit of dogs and pigs places is that you have facilities like toilets, fountains and bins... I had my barley salad and Paul his cheese and tomato sandwich. The stomachs were still weird but the food went down nevertheless.

We then started descending again, the sign said 1h 45" to Usseglio (I saw the same sign 15" before...) and after 1h it was 1h 20"... Anyway, it was not on the road so all good! It was very varied too: some steep bits down, then pasture land, then a climb here and there, then a swamp lake, more cowland, a super steep descent in the forest at which stage we kind of reached the valley, but from there it was still a good hour on paths that avoided the road and was all a bit of a rollercoaster, but very pleasant.

Swamp land...for a sec I thought we were still in Scotland

Finally at 4pm we reached our Hotel Furnasa which is a bit out of Usseglio, but it's nice enough and the shower was great.

The bad news is that tomorrow is going to piss down so we will need to get to Balme by public transport and this is not easy job. Still no idea how we get there but I'm sure we'll find a way!

Dinner at 7.30pm...I'm hungry ! Dinner was actually very good. A symbolic salad as a starter, a soup that I need to try when back home (green lentils, potatoes, black eyed beans), omelette and caponata for me and cheese selection and roasted potatoes for Paul, with fruit salad to finish off. I went to pay and forgot my pin...oh dear.

We both slept very well.

Balme - pissing rain = buses (they all exist!!!)
Monday 1 September

Well, the month didn't start great, which is a pity as it's my favourite one. Thankfully the rest of the week looks more promising. If we only get 1 day of rain I consider myself very lucky (we did!).

Waiting for bus n.1 in front of our hotel

I woke up at 5am and it was indeed pissing down. When we woke up at 7am it was a bit lighter but still, no views, clouds everywhere, and more to come. Breakfast was quite nice: cappuccino, croissant, slice of cake and the best was homemade plum jam, and yogurt. We said goodbye to this lovely family and waited outside for the mini van bus that really showed up. We were the only people there and it felt like we had a taxi for only 3 euros. The road was so narrow and twisty that I have no idea why anyone would drive up. Down the road an old lady joined but left shortly after. She was going to the market and would walk back on the road, I felt so sorry for all of them. If you can't even walk safely around a mountain village the system is really shit. The taxi driver was very nice but had no idea about the other buses. We also saw a group of bikepackers going up in pissing rain, we figured that they just started the Turin Nice. They were probably heading to Susa via the infamous col de lys, good luck to them! Two more people came in, younger and both foreigners, they were going down the valley.

We got off at the train station in Germagnano, we asked everyone - 2 men working there, a bus driver, the lady selling tickets at the newsagent (the kind of shop selling everything from bras to stationary to tobacco to tickets. Nothing. There were no timetables even at the bus stop. We just waited there feeling like we were waiting for Godot, then a young guy arrived and said a bus should come soon and so it did. This time it was 5.60 EU for a 20 min ride.

We got dropped off in Ceres, still no idea if there was a bus to Balme and nobody knew either, but we hoped the one at 13.15 really existed. We walked up to the centre where there where people. Stopped at a bar for a coffee, then wondered around a bit, then walked down to a super (on the main road, we got out alive, can't believe they can't add a footpath, what a sad place...). We bought lunch for both today and tomorrow as we suspected there wouldn't be much in Balme, provided we get there (confirmed, absolute 0), and just waited under a porch at the train station (which was closed as they were working on the line). We had our lunch - me the pouch of grains and Paul a cheese sandwich - and the bus indeed arrived! It was another mini van - and with good reasons - and this time the fare was 5.60 euro, which I don't complain at all about, it's just weird that it increased as the day went on and the distances were less...

plenty to do in Ceres...

Waiting for the last bus

At 2pm we reached Balme, which is at 1500m of altitude. It was still raining hard and we walked down to the only hotel, Les Montagnards. The surprise is that we are not actually sleeping there... another old lady came to pick us up and took us to a house nearby, god knows which century it was built but she was the 7th generation living there. We are in the room where her grandmother got married in 1920... It has been renovated but the furniture is still of that period, and it's freezing cold. We got both duvets out and went straight for a 2h nap (I calculated that I'm behind one night of sleep with all the 4.30am starts to go cycling last week). There is no telly and I'm so thankful I've a big book to read!

Dinner is at 7.30pm and I dread getting out of the warm bed (I'm fully dressed, it feels like we are camping). It's definitely one of these places that you look forward to leaving!

Dinner was a bit exotic...the starter was a mix of cheese and vegetables, then spinach ravioli with some nut sauce, the second a crepe with spinach and potatoes and semifreddo for dessert (Paul got the strudel but he was not convinced). There was another couple and a group of 6 Germans, we were glad we were not the only ones. We finished eating at 8.40pm, no telly in the room = reading time yes!

Balme to Pialpetta, Colle di Trione at 2598m - 15km, 1200m up and 1500m down

Tuesday 2 Sept

Sunshine!!! I woke up at 5am and the sky was full of stars. At 7am it was all blue sky and we couldn't wait to get going. We had breakfast at 7.30am, still no buffet but we ate well nevertheless. Slice of cake (1 taken for later), bowl of muesli with soya milk (bought in the shop the day before), bread and delicious home made jam, and yogurt and jam. Plenty of energies for what turned out to be a long day...

We said goodbye to the very chatty lady of the Adams Family house, and she assured that the sun would last and we would get great views from the pass...

We started descending on the road to a small village, then followed a steep paved road until we finally got on a path that kept climbing steeply.

We entered pasture land but thankfully no cows around. At 10am we stopped for a little suncream break and we saw this massive bird perching on an equally massive rock... white body and head and dark wings...a Gipeto!!!! We had a picture of it by the dinner table the night before and we are quite sure it was him. We feel so lucky!

Quite positive that was the Gipeto, we were so lucky!

We kept going up and saw a group of 5 people. I could recognise the rucksacks...it was the elderly we met on the first day! We figured out that they have a support van driving them around but they do all the hard work. Still can't believe they went up AND DOWN that shity path in their 80s, they are really hard core (I hope I'll be like them at their age!).

We passed the cows and we were in rocky terrain with 300m left to climb. The clouds reached us but every now and then we could glimpse the picks. At 11.30am we reached Colle di Trione at 2598m. We had a quick bite (1/2 cake from breakfast), took a few pictures, put on clothes, including gloves, and we started what turned out to be an extenuating infinite knee and patience breaking descent.

The signs all the way up gave random times, like it was really a joke, but thankfully we saw none going down which was much better.

The first bit was on rocky bouldery ground but the path was so well made that it felt so easy. Then the drama started...I can't even describe how awfully slow it all was. Steep wet rocks badly put with overgrown vegetation all the way down to a cirque. We only descended 300m in 1h and 1/2 when we got to our lunch spot (we still had 1200m left...)!!

Basically the path was the cliff

People met going up = 1, and of the non talkative kind. We could hear the elders behind and I have no clue how they managed, it was a proper rock climbing down.

Next but was no much better. Wet steep rocks in overgrown vegetation all the way until we reached Alpe Tirone at 1648m. I feel pity for whoever had to live in that dump hole ... It was 2pm and slowly we reached the forest, from where we could see the road below. We knew we still had to descent about 400m but that was even longer than the bit before. It was basically going down in narrow, steep, wet leaves/rocks/ roots then flat contouring the mountain in equally shity paths on and on and on. When we reached the bottom and crossed the river we felt like crying of joy.

We then had to go up a bit to join the road which took us to Pialpetta, which we reached at 4pm sharp in time for the little but well stocked village shop to open (I treated myself with a piece of crostata).

We then checked in the hotel, which is old and falling apart but ok. Now the usual admin waiting for dinner time at 7.30pm. I really hope the weather will hold... tomorrow it looks like a repeat of today, but after that we enter the National Park of Grand Paradiso and I really would love to get the views there...

Dinner was poor to say the least. No starter, a bit of soup and a tiny bit of rosti with carrots and no dessert. There were amazingly quite a few people eating there and I have no idea why!

Pialpetta to Ceresole Reale, Colle della Crocetta (2.640 m) - 13km, 1600m up and 1000m down
Wednesday 3 September

We both slept very well and woke up with a blue sky. We were told the croissants would be available at 7.30am and there we were with another table of 3 German hikers who were going to Balme. Disappointment is the only word I can think of. We had a few packed biscuits and toasted bread, with no plate. Coffee and eventually the croissant arrived 20min later and after asking 3 times. Oh dear

Anyway, we set off at 8.20am glad to know we would never be back. We walked through the village which was bigger than I thought, it was all a climb. We passed the forest to a small hamlet with a church where a girl was camping, I bet she ate better than us.

We kept climbing up, on good paths, well, better than yesterday at least, and as we gained elevation the views opened to all the high mountains. Cow land started at above 2000m, glad we didn't get water from downstream...

At 11am we reached a little lake at 2500m and stopped to get a bar and water, it was chilly but still pleasant in the sun and we could see the pass, which was only 150m higher.

We haven't met a soul all day and at the pass there were 4 Germans... really badly timed, especially because 2 of them where dicks. The good thing is that we saw destination from the top, what a view!Anyway, we didn't stop long and couldn't even get a decent picture because of them, so we started the descent, which at first was a bit sketchy in steep narrow exposed paths, but it got better as we went down.

At the pian dei morti (another great reminder of human stupidity - men from Pialpetta and men of Ceresole fighting after a church bell and all ended up killed) we had our lunch in the sun, until the clouds came and we moved on...

The path was so much easier than the day before! It was a pleasure to go down and we were glad to enter the forest to get some shade.

We reached the lake and went down some more to the Rifugio thinking we would get a cold drink but a guy said they were closed until 6pm in a bad way...really they could learn some manners in this region! We entered the village and reached our Hotel Scoiattoli where the lady is a bit weird but at least we got a kind of map of the place.

Shower then shop where I had a chat with the guy working there...he gave us a reality check in terms of what the walk is going to be tomorrow... long! And the weather is supposed to turn in the afternoon. We are kind of shitting ourselves and I really hope we can get a lift somewhere, but in the meantime I managed to negotiate pasta with tomato sauce for dinner and we are here in the garden in the sun.

Dinner was lovely and the staff so nice. We had penne with tomato sauce and for second a tofu/lentil thing with smashed potatoes which went down wonder. I was trying to overhearing the other tables in the odd chance that someone was going up to the col by car but one table was 2 guys on motorbikes and the other was an old couple who were heading down to Turin as the weather was turning...oh well, I tried!

Tomorrow is another day, ready for adventure time!

Ceresole to Pont, Col de Nivolet - 20km, 700m up and 700m down walked
Thursday 4 September

I don't know how many people I need to thank for making today such an amazing day.

We both slept quite badly as we were a bit anxious. The problems were: the hotel in Pont was firm that we couldn't get there past 7pm; walking all the route was about 30km, with a lot of elevation; rain was supposed to come in at 4pm and we really wanted to see the beauty up there.

We woke up at 6.45am and packed before heading for breakfast. The lady was kind enough to let us in 10min before, and this was the best breakfast we had so far, like buffet with anything you can think of and soya milk! We didn't even overeat as we were still full from dinner, and we were in a rush, but it was just a nice one to start the day with.

After much planning we decided to just follow the road as it was faster, and hitch-hike any time a car passed, which was not really much... We set off at 7.50am and the road was empty. We followed it along all the lake in a nice and chilly autumn morning. The views on the mountains were just stunning and they got better and better, and the food thing is that we could actually see them!

We reached the end of the lake and it was not even 9am. In a straight stretch of road we saw another hitchhiker, the irony is that a car passed a s stopped for him so I run the 50m to see thinking maybe they would take us too but the car was full...oh well.

We kept walking along the road which was not too steep by then, with the occasional steep bit, and with the cycling signs that gives the countdown at every kilometre (it was 20 in tot). We got past km -12 when a small car stopped. It was 2 guys who well knew how hard walking that road is as they do quite a lot...one was working at the dam up the road, what an office he has! They didn't go to the col but at least they drove us to the dam Serru', which was quite impressive indeed. It was 5km left from there and Paul was already taking pictures given everywhere we looked was stunning, but literally as we got off the car another one stopped and asked if we were going up the col and to come in...ok! It was a lovely woman from Turin who lives in Germany with her family. She was with her wee boy, and in another smaller car were her parents with a big dog which is why she explained they couldn't stop for us. She was so apologetic as she saw us before but she was going somewhere else... hitchhiking really restore some faith in the human species!

At 10am we were at the parking of he Rifugio Savoia, well ahead all our most optimistic predictions. We thanked her and her parents and given we had so much time we went up a path to see the best 360' views ever. The sky was still clear and everything we looked was breathtaking, honest the pictures don't give justice to the place! There were not many people around but we had the random chat mostly with the elder people around. We got confirmation that the mountain ahead of us was indeed the Gran Paradiso... finally we saw it! We also realised that we were now back in Val d'Aosta, in the National Park, as all the paths were in pristine conditions.

We had our slice of crostata bought in the shop in Pialpetta which went down wonder, put on clothes as it was quite chilly at 2700m, and just strolled around a high path, until it was time to head down to the Rifugio and get back on our path.

We were heading to Pont, it was 9km first along a kind of plateau then a steep descent. As we started we met that family again, the parents were very fond of Scotland (Italians generally love Scotland which always plays in our favour...), then we left the road for path number 3 and with the clouds, autumn colours and the vast plateau surrounded by high mountains it had a feeling of being back to Patagonia. There were also so many fat marmots definitely ready for the long winter sleep, and we saw a chamois.

We didn't meet many people but it was nice to chat with them (they were mostly going up and asking how far it was...).

At some stage the plateau ended and we entered rocky bouldery land, with a river passing in the middle. It was 1pm and we stopped to devour our cheese and tomato bocadillo (there was no way of avoiding it today), with delicious fontina from the shop in Ceresole. The sun came and went and it was a putting layers on and off. Looking back we could see clouds gathering but the sky in our direction looked much better.

It was all so poetic that I spent most day with an idiotic smile in my face, it felt like dream land, I can't believe that such a beautiful place exists!

We reached a cross where the path would take us down very steeply, but on a perfect path (learn this Piemonte!!). At the top before descending there was a kind of cairn / stupa inhabited by the most cute weasel ever. She was tiny and bold so she must have been a juvenile, and she kept putting her head out, can't take so much beauty and cuteness all together!

We could now get clear views of the path on the other side that takes up to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele from where people go to the Gran Paradiso. A couple past by and I asked how was the path and the traverse as it all looked a bit sketchy. The man reassured us it was easy, but we think tomorrow we will get on the path in the mountains opposite it so to get a good view. Who cares, everywhere is beautiful anyway a d tomorrow the weather is supposed to improve.

We then arrived in Pont, with is a campsite and our hotel, but amazingly there is also a tiny shop where we got a piece of strudel and our lunch for tomorrow. The hotel is also exceeding our expectations. The room is really nice, we have a nice balcony overlooking the mountains, and hopefully dinner will be descent too. We feel so much more relaxed now that we are here. Tomorrow should be stress free and we both look forward joining the Alta Via 2 again, we have so many fond memories of it!

Dinner was better than expected, we even got the starter, some mini broccoli cake and cheese, soup, polenta with veggies. There were only 4 more tables and the atmosphere was weird but we ate until our belly was exploding.

In the meantime outside we could hear thunders and the rain was coming down in buckets, good night.

Pont to Eaux Rousseau, Col de Monteau at 2790m - 17km, 900m up and 1200m down
Friday 5 September

We woke up with a blue sky and freezing temperatures, good stuff we would start climbing straight away. Breakfast was good, we even got boiled eggs, plenty of pastries and fresh fruit.

We were not in a rush as we only had 17km and not much to do at destination. We kind of improvised the route based on the paths of the map on the board, and started climbing up on the same path we came down the day before.

We reached the mini stupa of Miss Stoat but she was out on business. From there we got on path 3A which would take us up steeply. There were a few clouds around (especially on the Nivolet area, good stuff we went there when we could see something!) and it was really cold, but in the sun, climbing, it was ok. We reached the overgrown gravel road (still no idea where it goes) and we stopped for a wee break. Right there a couple reached us and as soon as they spoke we looked at each other... where do you come from?? The Scottish accent was hard to miss and we had a nice chat with them. They were fast packing the Alta Via 2 (no idea why they were there) and were also heading to Eaux Rousseau, and tomorrow to Cogne, we may see them there!

That encounter really cheered us up (we met nobody else up to there, and not many people after), and off we went climbing up again. At some stage we reached signs and from there we got on path number 9, which was just a marvel. It was a kind of balcony path overlooking all the giants on the he other side of the valley. It went on forever and we even saw wolves prints. Just thinking of them living happily up there makes me very happy too.

As we turned to the other side of the mountain we could see a huge cirque and we passed through it in the company of countless marmots. We stopped for a quick snack but the wind was really cold, so we kept going on a beautiful path that lead us to Col Manteau at 2790m, what a view from there! And guess who was there welcoming us???? Miss Weasel! The cutest animal ever, and very agile too!

She didn't stay long and neither did we as it was freezing (gloves on), so we started the descent on the other side in a boulder field. I was telling Paul how impressed I was with the quality of the paths even in such hostile terrain when it all went to hell and we were scrambling down trying to figure out the way. It was quite fun and entertaining, and a nice change, and eventually we got passed it and joined the easy path. It was lunchtime and the cheese and tomato bocadillos went down wonder. The lunch spot was quite spectacular too, and out of the wind it was not too bad.

We then joined the AV2 at the laghi di Dijouan, where we had lunch last time we were there, we closed the loop! The marmots looked fatter than in the spring and there were no alpine flowers but it was still beautiful even in its autumn dress, even more beautiful if you ask me!

We kept following the easy and panoramic path down until we reached the forest, and then more descent until we finally reached destination.

We were glad this time we were not staying at the camping Grivola as we found place at the Hotel du Paradis, but how disappointing this was! The lady was so rude, unhelpful just really a dick! Breakfast is at 8am and I asked if we could get it a bit earlier as we have a long day tomorrow. Her reply was "everyone has walked to Cogne this summer and had breakfast at 8am". It generally felt we are a nuisance despite paying 190 euro, geeezz! The room is freezing cold, no WiFi, TV was not even working (first thing they thought is that a customer must have stolen the remote...). We can't wait to leave and despite the beauty of these mountains I doubt I'll ever be back!

The surprise for dinner was a 30 people group of elders showing up...that would have played in our favour!

Eaux Rousseau to Cogne, Col de Lauson at 3299m - 26km, 1600m up and 1800m down
Saturday 6 September

I slept amazingly well in the igloo, with double duvet and headband... We woke up at 7am and prepacked, then at 7.30am I was having a smoke and saw a few people of the big group coming up so we went to the breakfast room where we were miraculously admitted. We (I) staffed ourselves like pigs before the heard was allowed in. We finished at 8am, quickly finished the packing, didn't even bother to say goodbye and left.

It was a beautiful morning and we were in for an epic day. We started climbing straight away, and despite keeping gaining elevation the path was so good that we could hardly feel it. We were kind of on a schedule as we knew the day would be long, but as long as we put one foot in front of the other we were good.

The forest bit was magical, we saw a chamois running down, plenty of birds and only us representing the human species.

At 9.30am we reached a ledge, with a fountain, bench and a house. The views were now opening up as we left the forest, and as we progressed up it was all becoming unreal. We still couldn't figure out where the pass was, but who cares? I just couldn't stop looking everywhere in wonder.

We could see a few people (3) up the path and 2 were the Scots we met yesterday. Then we had a nice chat with a Dutch couple who was coming down and kept going up. After the grass bit the scree started, gentle at first until it got steeper and sketchier... at least we were gaining elevation fast!

Finally at 12.20pm we reached Col de Lauson at 3299m! The views everywhere were breathtaking, but we knew the hard bit was yet to come and after a few pictures we faced it...steep trick descent on a narrow and exposed scree path, until we got to the ropes and then more steep narrow scree down.

We took it very carefully and slowly, and finally we were out the danger zone with great relief!

We had a lot of descent to do, but when we reached the grassy land we found a heard of lady ibexes with their youngs. At first we thought they were chamois because there were not big horns, but the guys must have gone somewhere else

We had our delicious cheese and tomato bocadillos looking at them grazing around and then headed down to the Rifugio Della, which was a bit of an anticlimax as it was packed with people...and dogs. Last time we were there they weren't allowed and it was full of ibexes, now they are all go e to higher grounds. Not even in a national park can we forbid dogs for god sake, we are just a disgrace of a species.

We stopped in the sun for a slice of mirtilli cake, then we resumed the long descent, all known ground from now on, down to the bottom where we had an apple.

We still had 3km to go, and the old path was eaten by the river in the flood that hit this area a few years ago. Seeing houses half destroyed was really humbling and a good reminder of what we are doing, and yet we keep causing the destruction of the planet as if everything is fine.

We reached Cogne at 4.30pm, well ahead of our most optimistic predictions, and headed to the info office to see what to do tomorrow, then shop for a treat (kefir!) and finally we checked in to the nice Boton d'Or hotel, where they greeted us with a smile!!!!

Dinner was a delicious pizza, the thin and light one, at Tabaras, we even managed to get drunk and it feels just right, we definitely had to celebrate such a beautiful memorable and perfect day! We even got a full moon when walking back to the hotel!

Cogne to Colle della Finestra di Champorcher and back (2827m) - 31km, 1410m up, 1500m down
Sunday 7 September

Last day of walking and we are not even ruined! I'm so glad we walked to this Col as it gives a sense of closure to the trip and to the Alta Via 2 (we still have one stage that we missed, the one to Rheme Notre Dame, but really I feel like we have walked it all).

Breakfast was a bit disappointing, but I still filled myself so much that it powered me all the way to the top. We left at 8.45am to get the free shuttle to Lillaz, with a very grumpy driver, somehow I'm not surprised.

It was freezing cold and as soon as we got off the bus at 9.05am we saw the AV2 sign and started walking straight away. Thankfully it was a climb, and even if in the forest we kind of warmed up, and when we reached a pasture where marmots were grazing at leisure the fleece came off.

From there it was more walking in the forest on a well graded and perfect path. There was a gravel road on the other side of the river (that we took on the way back), but then our path gradually went more far away behind a mountain. It was a real pleasure to walk it even though it was a bit nested in the mountains at first so we couldn't get vast views, but eventually it emerged high up and we were both in awe. The autumn colours added so much beauty to an already stunning place.

At some stage we went down to climb again and we met a group of like 20 people in the more inconvenient part of the path....apart from them we met close to nobody until we reached the Rifugio at 2500m. It's Sunday and we were glad to be so far away from the mess that must have been in Cogne, and God knows the mayhem at the Rifugio Vittorio Sella...I think we really picked the right path!

We reached the Rifugio at noon and stopped for a bite. From there we had to climb 300m to the col, the sign said 1h but it took us 35min, weird as all the previous times the signs were spot on for a change.

I knew this was our last walk in the Alps for the year, and our last pass, which felt a bit sad, but at the same time it filled me with happiness thinking how privileged we have been to walk this, and how lucky we have been with the weather!

There were 2 couples at the top and we were all enjoying the views on both sides. It was not a technical/scary pass and we took our time to take pictures and just take it in. It was a kind of goodbye too, who knows if we will ever be back (as I type I'm thinking....TOR).

We got back to the Rifugio for lunch, back to grain pouches which was a great change to the cheese bocadillo (those bought in Turin...).

There were quite a few cyclists on ebikes coming up, but far from a crowd. We thought the descent on the gravel road would be a drag in the afternoon heat but there was a nice breeze coming up from the valley and the views were great, even when we reached lower grounds.

We stopped at a church for an apple an luckily there was a fountain (the Garmin says Paul sweated 4 litres today...).

We eventually rejoined the path we took in the morning and at 4pm we were in Lilaz. There was no shuttle at that time so we kept following the AV2 back to Cogne, in a very well maintained gravel path in the shade of the forest.

It turned out to be a long day but we both loved it, a perfect way to end a perfect trip, tomorrow we head to the plains!