Easter hiking in Kintail

There are trips that, even if short, fill your heart with wander, peace and beauty. 

As it happens every year in spring, the West Coast was calling and we had to go. This time we went for a different model. Given the uncertainty of the weather, and the amount of stuff that I need for camping comfortably, we rented a van (we called him Shoupy) and instead of a long distance hike we based ourselves in the campsite in Morvich and from there we would go on day hikes. This turned out to be a great idea. The van was our kitchen, lounge, changing room, store room and reading room, and without it we wouldn't have enjoyed it so much. Still, every day we would meet those on the Cape Wrath trail who stopped there for a night, and I felt so jealous. It feels like an unfinished business and my guts say one day we will be back, for the whole of it?

Loop around Beinn Fhada (mix of Kintail Affric Way and Cape Wrath trail)

Friday 18 April 2025
31 km / 1000m

We arrived at the campsite at 7pm on Thursday evening. Paul was starving and to his delight there was a fish and chip van right outside the campsite. His face when we found out they run out of chips... It was freezing and I was wearing 3 jackets (the outer one was my winter one...). We set up tent and gosh we were rusty! The cover was inside out, then we realised the head was the other way, and the mats were not inflating as we didn't close the valve... Eventually up it was and we started on the dinner. Paul bought ages ago the Firepot pouches and we went for the Tuscan Stew which was delicious!

We both slept very well and woke up with a clear sky and ice on and in the tent. I'm so glad I invested in my super sleeping bag as I didn't feel the cold at all! We had a delicious breakfast (oats with fruits and nuts, toasted bagel with jam / peanut butter and coffee). At 9am we were finally ready to go, although we had no clue where anything was anymore (Paul forgot his sunglasses and the wallet in the tent).

Porridge in the sun oh yes!

We were aiming to go up to Beinn Fhada as it was a short walk and the weather was supposed to turn in the afternoon, but we got into the wrong glen and went on the Affric Kintail Way to Glen Affric instead... It was the route we did in reverse with the bikes years ago, and a bit of a trip into memory lane which was pleasant enough.

It was sunny and warm to start but it then clouded as soon as we reached the Bothy. It was only noon but we decided to eat our sandwich there as there would no be any more shelter. We almost reached the Youth Hostel in Alltbeithe when we got the turn to go back via the other glen. The start was a bit on the boggy side (don;t know how many times I repeated “thank goodness it hasn't rained for 2 weeks!), then a short climb started up to a bealach from where a path nested in a narrow valley took us down back to Morvich (this was the valley we wanted in the morning).

At the junction

 

 

 

 Although it was not part of the plans, we both enjoyed this walk very much and I could definitely feel my quads by the end. Back to the camp we had a nice hot shower and dinner tonight was the Mushroom Risotto, sooooo good, I could live on this food!

 

Skye tour (rainy day :( )
Saturday 19 April
8k walk

Rainy day, it started at 7pm the night before, rained all night and all day. Just going to the loo was an ordeal. The first thing we heard in the tent (apart form the rain) was the cry of an eagle who sounded very pissed off...who can blame her??

At least we didn't have to dismantle the tent in the pissing rain, and Shoupy offered both a cosy kitchen for breakfast and entertainment for the rest of the day. We drove to Skye to relive all the beautiful moments we had there. While parked a police man knocked at the window and asked where we were from? Edinburgh. Oh well, then I don't need to tell you which side of the road you need to drive on. Ok...I really feel it for those poor falks up there, god knows what they see!

By the time we got back at the campsite it kind of stopped raining. Dinner tonight was the Firepot Posh baked beans, which we have renamed “the farting powder”. Good stuff we were in a tent and not in a room...

 

A' Ghlas-bheinn and Falls of Glomash loop - 25k, 1000 up

Saturday 20 April (happy Easter!)

Today we got rewarded for our patience, what a day! We woke up in what smelt like a gas chamber but the day looked up since then. We had our standard delicious breakfast, packed the bag and headed off eager to stretch our legs. First we retraced our steps up the bealach we were on day one, then we got on a steep path that would take us to the top of A' Glass-bheinn.

That stretch was by far the best of the day. As we gained elevation the views got wider and wider, with snowy peaks appearing as we went up. Only Scotland has this kind of immense, desolate and unforgiving views and we kept stopping looking around thinking “where are we??”

After a good stop taking in all this enormity, we prepared for the descent on the other side. So far we have been very impressed with the quality of the paths, even surprised that there was a path, but now we were left to ourselves navigating this vastness and guessing roughly which way we were heading to (thanks Garmin!). 

It was a steep descent at first, then kind of going North East trying to avoid the bog, and finally we got to a point were we could finally see the path below that would take us to the famous Falls of Glomash. To celebrate we had lunch in the most scenic place (even if a bit on the steep side...). Paul finished his cheese and bagels he bought at the store yesterday, and me my pouch of Spanish grains and avocado. Overall we ate very well in this trip!

We then went down to join the path on a kind of plateau, then descended to the falls which were a bit of a disappointment as you can't actually see all the them...like it's more of water falling in a gorge. Still, it was a beautiful spot and someone found it a perfect place for a little rest (we haven't met many people so far, like generally...).

We then started to go back to base camp, the sun came out and it was actually getting very hot. We climbed back to the plateau, walked on it for a few kilometers, then the path would gently take us down to rejoin the path we were on in the morning at the bottom of the glen. We stopped to snack on the Easter brioche I prepared for the trip (5x2 portions, it was actually still very good!) and kept going for the last stretch.

While approaching the end we met 4 men, carrying a looooot of wait (one had 2 rucksacks, front and back!) who asked how far the falls were. We have a chat and they were doing all the Cape Wrath walk, one tent collapsed in the rain and wind of 2 nights before but they looked in good spirit...I told Paul they looked like academic, but hats off, at least THEY are doing it while I keep moaning that I'd be cold!!

Back at the camp we were for our last Firepot dinner, praying it would not be another farting powder... Thankfully the Macs and Green was not, and it was very gnummy (my favourite is still the Tuscan Stew!).

Today it was Easter and the campsite was full of trekkers, by the look of it most were doing the Cape Wrath, apart from a couple who the night before set up the Tent Royal. They left at 7am in the morning with 2 cars and we suspected they were trying the 7 munroes traverse. We were a bit worried as they were not back by 9.30pm but they arrived later at night...I'm sure they will remember that day for a loooooong time!


A' Cralaig, 8km and 880m up

Monday 21 April

We slept amazingly well, again, which makes me think that we should really be camping more. Campsite full means early start as the noises start early. At 6am we were awake and dismantled the tent, which was a bit sad but oh well, good things can't last forever.

While having breakfast we had a chat with this Canadian man, married to an English woman, who was doing the Cape Wrath, and it turns out he new the 4 men we met the day before. I'm not sure why they were not together but I think they started a few days before (and he seemed content to be on his own!). Paul cheekily asked him if they were academics and so I was proved right!

We packed everything and set off for the last short climb up to a Munro by the side of the road just past the Clunie Inn. We parked the van in a lay-by and at 8.15 am we started on the steepest vertical to date. The path was basically going up with no zig zags at more than 20%. Good news is that we gained elevation very quickly, bad news is that we had to go back that way but that was a problem for later.

We eventually emerged up at the end of the steep bit and OMG, it felt like we were walking on the roof of the world. The top looked like the Sphinx, and all around were the most stunning views, honest the pictures don't give the slightest idea of how beautiful it all was.

It was cold and windy, and we had to drive back to Edinburgh, so we didn't waste much time but I'm so glad we went up there as it was the best farewell to this dream area. We will be back one day!

Somebody deserves a Scottish breakfast at lunch :)