September mini cycle adventure

 

This year we have neglected Scotland. This was in part because the weather is always a question mark and doesn't allow for far ahead planning, and by the time we decide to go somewhere the accommodation left is either extortionist or non existent, and then there was the additional complication of the train strikes which didn't really help the planning... Finally we had a long weekend and Paul got to check the maps and plotted a short route that would take us on a couple of gravel stretches that we have never done before.

Day 1 – Tyndrum to Callander – 81km and 1050m up

16 Sept 2023

We headed down to Haymarket in pouring rain and got on the 7.19am train to Tyndrum, changed in Glasgow on a train full of hikers and quite a lot of cyclists too (all the bikes spaces were taken). At 10.35 we got off and for the first 5km we were on the West Highland Way, amazingly the sun came out and with it the prospect of a good day.

As soon as we departed from the WHW we haven't met a soul. We turned right on the Allt Kinglass gravel road and passed below the viaduct. This glen is described as the loneliest in Scotland, and indeed it felt quite wild and remote. There was just a group of cute cows and that was pretty much it. We had to ford a few streams which meant water shoes on. Apart from that the gravel was pretty decent and cyclable, not fast going (see the number of gates and streams), but definitely enjoyable, plus with those views we were not rushed at all! We were originally planning to climb Beinn Mhanach as it was on our way, but by the time we reached the path it was 11.30am and we only had done 12km. We decided to stick to the cycling as otherwise we would have had to rush and we were just enjoying being out cycling in a remote place.

We kept going and reached Loch Lyon and stayed on its North bank. It was a bit bumpy and with an additional stream crossing but pretty pleasant to cycle. We had our lunch before the last climb out of it, after which was all known territory.

Past the dam the road took us down to where we reached the paved road. We took the private road and headed South. The first bit was steep but then it got better and we still had sunshine, on our faces for a change! 

 What goes up goes down and in no time we reached the other glen and followed the narrow road (thankfully there were no cars) by the river Lochay all the way down to Killin. We have done this before and I remembered it being downhill, but it turns out it was quite bumpy! In Killin we stopped at the Coop for a snack and then followed the NCN 7 to Callander, which we have done multiple times but it's always a pleasure to ride.

We reached town shortly after 5pm, checked in the Dreadnought Hotel (pretty shity room but it was the only one available in all of the Highlands for less than £200) and went to have food, as per tradition, to the Chinese Village. There was live music in the hotel and the pub looked wilder than the places we passed through today, but we both slept like logs.

Day 2 – Callander to Perth – 61km and 870m up

17 Sept 2023

The forecasts were not too encouraging and they predicted with certainty that the weather would deteriorate along the day. We knew it would be a short day to Perth and were originally planning to hike up Ben Vorlich that again was on the way, but given the black sky, low clouds and the imminent rain we decided against it.

We set off at 8am and started climbing straight away up a narrow paved road North East of town. The first 2 km were a killer, like the gradient was relentlessly more than 10%. It then eased a bit and by then we were in wild country. It was very dark but I guess that's what Scotland is like normally... The paved road then turned into a gravel road of good conditions, and it kept climbing until we almost reached the clouds. We were in Glen Artney and, apart from another cyclist we haven't met a soul. We were a bit pushed with time as we booked the 12.57 train from Perth and you never know what the road can throw at you, but then the weather was not allowing for much lingering around as by the time we started the descent it was all a bit misty and wet. 

 

 

We got on the paved road that would take us to Crieff, and from there it was a wet 33k to Perth. It was a bit of a drag but we knew it was a short day and I was still glad to be out. We reached Perth with plenty of time to spare and had a nice hot drink while waiting for the train, which turned out to be full so we put the bikes in the corridor, at least there was a train!

Pity the weather was not on our side on day 2, but still glad we got to explore another few bits of Scotland that we have never seen before.