Truth the hardest bit was finding somewhere to stay which also served food, but after a couple of failed bookings we came up with a route passing through places we haven't seen before. We were probably a bit too optimistic with the route planning, forgetting that it was our first multi day cycle in a while and that the gradients and climbing down there can be ridiculously hard. The original plan would see us getting back home via the Holy Island but we cut it short instead as my legs could definitely feel all the accumulated elevation gained by the end of day 3. Still, we had a great trip and many unique experiences to add to our memory bank.
Day 1 – Girvan to
New Galloway– 80km and 1054m up
07 April 2023
It was a cold start but we woke up in glorious sunshine with not even a cloud. We went down to Haymarket and 3 trains later, at 11am, we found ourselves in Girvan. We set off straight away on a busy road that we left after 4km, and the climbing started, like a steep one! I initially thought it was one of those bumpy stretches but actually it was a long climb that brought us up. When I looked back I could see the sea, and the baby lambs were out in great numbers, the first I saw this year, and brought a big smile on my face. The descent was quick, and was followed by yet another climb. A couple on a tandem shoot past. We reached them at the top and I found out that thankfully it was electric, that or I was really getting slow! We had a chat with them and then started the endlessly and beautiful descent down to the Glen Trool visitor centre where we stopped for lunch. It was quite busy, with many cyclists of all ages and a nice atmosphere (the sunshine may have had something to do with this!).
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| On train number 3, with Arran in the background |
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| Plenty of new born lambs around |
We set off again and followed a paved road for a few km, and then got on the gravel road which took us up up up. The views were getting better and better, and the people suddenly disappeared. After reaching the top we started cruising along a stunning flattish road which reminded me of the Highlands, a pleasure to ride, I think I had my mouth open in awe all the time. We passed a lake, and another followed soon afterward. Honest I can't believe I've never been there before, and that we met so few people up there!
At the end of the gravel road we stopped for a bite and to take in the peace of the place. We could hear so many different birds singing and felt in heaven. I was glad we opted for this trip instead of going North, right there there was nowhere else I'd rather be.
We then joined a bigger road and in 15km we reached New Galloway and the Kenbrisge Hotel, our day destination. The man running it was very nice and told us of his cycling days on MTB in Glen Trool. We had a very pleasant stay in the hotel and couldn't wait to start day 2!
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| In preparation for my next life as an eagle |
Day 2 – New Galloway to Langham – 102km and 1154m up
08 April 2023
Happy Easter! We woke up with more sunshine and went for a very basic breakfast which unfortunately didn't fuel me up enough... We set off at 9am in glorious weather and ready to explore new places. As soon as we got on the bikes we heard some honking, looked up and a big gaggle of geese was flying North in perfect V shape, maybe heading to Iceland? It was so cool and uplifting to see them on a big journey and we wished them luck, we were not the only one around at that time after all!
We started with a climb of bumpy climbs (because one climb is never enough!) and were up in moorland landscapes, with sunshine and not a soul around (we must have met 3 cyclists all day today). By km 30 I was already hungry and we stopped for a bar, then we started to head down along fields filled with lambs, and we were lucky enough to spot 3 red kites circling in the sky waiting for thermals, what a show! It was all kind of the same scenery until we reached Lockebie at 1pm at km 65. ...food!
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| Glad we didn't stop there! |
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| Our favorite bus stop, we lost the count of the times we stopped there, but for once is not raining! |
You really need to plan it well foodwise in that part of the world as we didn't pass through any villages or any cafes or shops of any sorts, and by the time we got there we were starving. The rule of thumb is never to go shopping when hungry...we spend £30 on sandwiches, oatcakes, croissants, smoothies, cheese, bananas etc. In our defense most of that food was emergency one for the day after (we got back home with 2 packs of oatcakes and pretty much all of the cheese). We went to have lunch in a park and really enjoyed the sunshine. Gosh I needed calories!!
At 2pm, 2kg heavier each, we set off for another climb. The food helped give me energies but I wasn't feeling too strong, and given we had plenty of time we just took it easy, and still managed to average 21km/h. All the next 40 km were bumpy stuff of the kind that kills your legs and soul. Even when we reached the Esk river, thinking we would just follow it downstream, the road was actually still taking us up steep short climbs and descents all the way to destinations.
We finally reached Langham shortly after 4pm and were so glad to check in the Eskdale Hotel and our beautiful room. Being vegetarian is not very common down South, again I managed to get away with a dish of risotto but anything else had meat or fish. If you are vegan, good luck!
The village had a nice atmosphere and quite a few people were out to celebrate Easter. We were dead tired and enjoyed watching James Bond / Spectra at the telly instead, trying to get mentally ready for what looked like another hard day on the saddle.
Day 3 – Langham to Clennell Hall – 106km and 1740m up
09 April 2023
I don't even know how to summarise the day. Horror? Absurdity? Where on earth are we?? Where have we been? What have we learnt? (nothing, maybe not to do it again...)
The start was great in that we had an unexpected and deluxe breakfast (fresh berries, granola, Paul even got oat milk, and warm croissants!). We stuffed ourselves so not to bonk like the day before. After that I was sure I wouldn't go in hunger crisis...or would I?!
We knew it would be an endless day and we set off at 9am in fighting mode (more like resignation really) and headed for climb number 1 up in moorland landscapes. It was not so sunny but the climb definitely warmed me up. The first top was followed by a second and offered the view of a couple of buzzard in courtship mode, cute! After that it was a long descent to a sleepy Newcastletown at km 16. We then had another climb, at the bottom of which we joined the NCN 10 on gravel at km 22. It was not the best kind but I guess it could be worse, and at least it was well graded so I managed to cycle it all. After a while we were following a little stream which marked the border with England, and when we crossed the bridge there was a huge sign “Welcome to England” and the track turned into single track, up. Great. It was a short pushing until it got cyclable and we then joined a bigger track. We were now in the Kielder forest and it started to get chilly, we could definitely feel the cold wind.
NO PICTURES TAKEN UNTIL THE END OF THE DAY...WHY??
Once at the top, the track became well surfaced and it was a quick descent to reach the lake at km 43. We then got on a busy road with fast traffic and stopped in a patch of grass by the side to get a slice of cake...where are we? While there we saw that the NCN 10 was at the other side of the road, so we pushed the bikes through a bit of grassland and joined it. This was a pleasant but very slow stretch along the banks of the lake, gravel, with plenty of gates and people. It certainly didn't allow for fast going. And it was bumpy like hell. By the time we reached Falstone at km 54 I was dead, no energy left and motivation below my shoe. We stopped to reassess the situation. The wind was getting stronger from the South East (= head wind) and according to the original plan (we were meant to get to a place called Wooler) we had 85km of bumpy stuff left. We could have gone to Newcastle instead, but that was still 79km and headwind, so we kept going on the original plan. The road started to get busy and there were many short steep (20%) climbs that really killed me. Because of the headwind I also had to push downhill, it felt like I had been on a turbo all day.
We eventually got to Bellingham at km 69 and stopped at a bench. We had a bottle of huel, bought out of curiosity like 2 years before, truly disgusting. I wonder what's wrong with normal food? It was also freezing and we realised there was no way we would make it before 7pm. Paul called the hotel to let them know we were late and to check until what time they served food. That was when things turned, as they didn't serve food because it was Sunday... We then checked for hotels half way through and the Clennell Hall popped up. Paul called, they had a room and served food, and it was only 39km away!
We got back on the bikes and by then I was completely gone but I could still think in 5km slots and that helped a lot as it was realistic and possible. I slowly slowly got up the next climbs but I was feeling very weird, like sweating and trembling and no energies. My mind was completely disconnected from my body, and finally I realised I probably just needed food, even if my stomach was revolted. We stopped at a small village called Elsdon and at 3.30pm I had my bean wrap. It was freezing cold and I was shaking but by then I didn't even care any more, only 20km left! We had another quick stop after 10km and finally we made it to destination. The Clennell Hall Country House, a huge estate surrounded by gardens in the middle of nowhere, looked like a mirage. The day was finally over, no more cycling!
Paul went to check in his cycling clothes while I was waiting outside guarding the bikes and still in disbelief that we are really done with the cycling for the day. When he got back he said something about the elder lady but I understood nothing. Staying in this place was quite an experience, and I'm so glad we stopped as it's something that we will remember for a long time...
The place is huge and is used as wedding venue and music events. Apparently we missed a big party the night before when they had a singer. A lot of campervans and tents were set on the gardens and it must have been mayhem...it all looked like very rural England.
The room was all at an angle but we had a great shower and it had a bed, all that we needed. We then went to the bar for dinner. The ratio of dogs to humans in the bar was 4 to 1. For once we found a place that smelt worse than us after a full cycling day, but we were reassured by a label on the door saying “food hygiene rating 5 stars”. I didn't dare asking about vegetarian options but managed to find something that could do, the only option being wild mushrooms home made pizza. I was expecting something truly disgusting but it was not that bad. Paul went safe and got fish and chips. In the time it took us to finish our dinner, the couple close to us drunk 3 pints each. I would have been in ethylic coma but it looks like they were just getting started. That place was as exotic to us as we were to them, but I'm glad we stayed there as in its way it was an highlight of the trip...how did we end up here??
The TV was not working so we collapsed in bed watching Butch Cassidi and the Sundance kid on the mobile instead. I slept sound.
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| Everything was at an angle |
Day 4 – Clennell Hall to Alnmouth – 40km and 450m up
10 April 2023
Breakfast was basic but by then my expectations were set at zero. We didn't have a log day ahead so I was not too worried either. While having breakfast he told me about the check in and I couldn't stop laughing (the other option was crying..).
This was the conversation with the elder lady (whom I think was at least 90 while Paul said she was 35 but did a lot of partying) at the check in:
Paul: “I'm here to check in”
(Lady looking for the bookings in a mess of papers)
Lady: “Oh yes, is it only you?”
Paul: “No we are in two”
Lady: “Oh well then we can't give you a double room”.
Paul: “But it's my wife!”
Amazing how someone can be both sexist and homophobic in just 6 words. As Paul said, this was truly a trip in space as much as in time...
When we set off it was raining, not much but the forecasts warned of showers (when nobody seemed to agree). We started on a gravel road on the muddy side which luckily only lasted a couple of km.
Maybe it was the thought of going home, or the knowledge of a short day, or maybe I finally got into the rhythm of the multi day cycle, but I was in a much better shape and finally abandoned the granny gear. There were still climbs but nothing as bad as the day before. The landscapes were mostly rural countryside but I was enjoying being out and finally being pushed by the wind.
The best moment of the day was when when we were having a break by the side of a road, with me smoking, and a farmer passed by on his quad hugging his Collie, both smiling, the cutest and most romantic scene ever! There were also a few lambs just born, like struggling to get on their legs, welcome to the world!
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| The spot where we saw the man and the dog |
After many small country roads we then joined a big one down to Alnwick, and suddenly we were sharing the road with so many cars. We stopped to readjust to reality and then found the cycling path which took us to Alnmouth, which we reached in a heavy shower. We had 45min to kill and cycled down to the village for a quick bite before catching our train back home. As I type I can't believe that just this morning we were having breakfast in that weird place in the middle of nowhere. Life is beautiful, and weird. Where and what next?
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