Let me out let me be gone: Via Alpina Route 1

Via Alpina Route 1 - Switzerland

July 2020

This holiday has been a much welcomed parenthesis of light in all the Coronavirus black months. We prepared the planning and did all the bookings in October last year, and we were not sure we would go until the last moment when we finally got the green light. All our previous holidays have been cancelled, and given the uncertainties about the possible quarantine, we could hardly believe it when we found ourselves in Basel airport, we are really abroad?? The travel was actually smooth. We just had to wear a face mask on public transport and inside the airports, but apart from that everywhere was empty and we never had to queue.

We had to adapt the original plan, as I originally signed up to run the Eiger Ultratrail mountain race, and then walk from Grindelwald to Gstaad on the Via Alpina Route. But the race was cancelled due to C19, so that we added another day to the walk and decided to start in Meiringen instead.

The Swiss Alpine Pass Route, (Via Alpine 1) is a classic among the long-distance hike in the Swiss Alps that starts from Liechtenstein to Montreux for about 360 km and more than 20,000 m of ascents and descents. We didn’t have time to do it all, so that we chose the central 7 stages which would bring us up the highest passes of the route. We used the “Trekking the Swiss Alpine Pass Route – Via Alpina 1” book guide by Cicerone, and found the Swiss website very useful too.

The Coronavirus crisis actually played in our favour, as this route would usually be backed full of people of any kind, but for once we didn’t find the crowds (no loud Americans!!!), just local people and families out on day treks. Well, at least something positive out of all this mess I suppose…

It felt like the end of a nightmare (or a temporary break, who know?), suddenly we were catapulted into heaven. Well, day one was a transition one really. We got to Basel in rain and spent the day getting to Meiringen, the start of our walk. We changed train in Luzern and spent an hour wondering around its lake and old bridges, in a bit of a comatose state due to the trip and the disbelief that we were actually there.

The new normal...

Empty stations

Empty trains

Luzern

We arrived in Meiringen (600 m) on a rainy Friday afternoon, and walked through the tiny village to our Hotel Tourist, a 20 min walk out of town, conveniently located for the start of the trek the day after. The Hotel was very basic and half empty, and I was really glad I spent the last year studying German on Duolingo as English is not really popular up there. That day we were a bit spaced out, the village itself is in a valley at the feet of the mountains, and the sky was overcast with some drizzle, so that we could not see anything really, apart from the Reichenbach Falls, known worldwide as the setting for the location where Sherlock Holmes fights to the death with Professor Moriarty, at the end of "The Final Problem". Me I’ve always sympathised more with Moriarty…

Day 1 – Meiringen to Grindelwald – 26km, 1391 m up

18 July 2020

We woke up at 7am eager to start the walk, and after a quick and basic breakfast off we went for a steep start on muddy forests up to the Reichenbach Falls, where we reacted the last fight between Sherlock Holmes and Moriarty, with a different ending…

At the Reichenbach Falls

Reacting the Sherlock / Moriarty last fight, where evil finally wins


you mean evil didn't win???!

Contemplative Burritos

After stopping at the waterfalls up we went again through the forest until we reached a spot which offered a little break from the branches and suddenly we realised it would be a good walk indeed with amazing views! It was like opening a door to a parallel dimension of high snowy peaks. There is was in the distance, the Wetterhorn (Peak of Tempest) calling us to its gigantic beauty.

Opening the door to a different dimension

The path was a steep ascent from then on and it criss-crossed a road all the way to the top. It was not too busy with cars, however the amount of cyclists going up was unbelievable, I wouldn’t have minded testing myself with a bike going up there either! From there it was an easy kind of flattish bit to Schwarzanalalp (1454 m), and then the final 2h push up to Grosse Schneidegg (1962 m), that we reached at 12.10.

First view of the Eiger

We did take it easy and stopped a few times as we were in no rush at all and the views of the Wetternhorm and its peaks were getting better the closer we got to the mountain. Hardly did we know that the views on the other side of the Pass would be even better than that!

We were wondering if we would recognise the Eiger, and as soon as we crossed the Pass there it was, unmistakable in its magnetism.

The creation of the Eiger

We had a great lunch admiring it, as Paul put it, it looked like a blade cutting the sky. My initial comment was: “yes but it’s not that its South side looks much better to climb…". Once we finished our gnammy sandwich, reluctantly we started the descent as it started to feel chilly up there, but as soon as we dropped some elevation it got hot again. All the way down we kept contemplating the sequence of high peaks paralleling the walk, which was getting better and better, unreal and way beyond all my expectations! It was a sunny hot slow and scenic decent, mainly on tarmac paths, all the way down to Ginderwald, which was packed with cars and people…I wonder how it would have been like on normal conditions!

As per tradition, Paul's glasses committed suicide

Slow descent to Grinderwald

The final surprise of the day was a beautiful hotel room with balcony at the Jungfrau Lodge overlooking at the North face of the Eiger, can you ask for more? Me I spent all the remaining day just looking at it with my feet up! The Receptionist asked if we came by train or car. We both replied together “on foot!”

View from the balcony, me I move there!

Day 2 – Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen – 25km and 1366m up

19 July 2020

This was another day blessed by sunshine and spectacular views. While the Eiger has been shy the day before, we woke up at 6.30 am and admired it in all its splendour.

Good morning sunshine!

We had a great breakfast, where I discovered the Bircher Musli, how could I have lived so far without it I don't know! After eating a bucket of it it was time to burn out some energies, so that at 7.50 am we set off for what would have been another spectacular day of sunshine and breath taking views.

The village was still asleep as we walked down to the bottom of the valley, and then started the steep ascent on the other side through houses and pastures. Gosh it was steep! I bet I burnt off all the muesli just by reaching stop 1 in Alpiglen, which we reached at 9.30 am climbing almost 600 m.

Bye bye beautiful Jungfrau Lodge...

Starting to gain elevation over Grindelwald

A train stop, which we would find regularly along the path (still for once we never cheated this time!)

North Face of the Eiger...scary!!

It was a sunny Sunday morning in July, and there was not a soul around, and we were literally at the feet of the Eiger, what a treat! Given the circumstances we decided to abandon temporarily the Via Alpina and opted for the Eiger Trail instead, a nice path going all the way along the Eiger feet to the Kleine Sheidegg Pass. It made it a bit longer but who could care less!

Finally we got on a proper trail and left the tarmac one, and started going up up up again, with a little stop half way through to contemplate the giant, which from there looked like the cathedral of the mountains. Reluctantly we kept going and entered the freezing cold bit in the shade of the Eiger.

On the Eiger Trail

Finally out of the shade we reached the highest point at 2300 m. A crowd of people was there looking up, as there were a few climbers attempting the infamous North Face. I'm not a climber and can't really understand how people can even think of going up there, but my respect, in 10 lifetimes there is no way I would manage to!

From there, adding to the sequence of majestic giants, were the Munch and Jungfrau, and with this view we sat for lunch in what was probably the best lunch spot we have ever found, what a special moment to add to our Memory Bank!

Fondue, which once was a cheese sandwich

By 12.30 we were on the move again and descended a few hundreds meters to get to the Kleine Scheidegg (2061 m), the Pass, where we rejoined the Via Alpina and with it herds of people getting off the train grr.... The amount of imagination that humans put into violating mountains for profit is unbelievable.

From there it was a very long descent on a steep land-rover track by the rail lines, which would give us a hint to what the route would look like the day after...

The first village that we reached was Wengen (1276 m), a popular tourist car-free resort basically empty because of C19. We stopped for a quick break as the heat started to feel unbearable, and after a cold drink off we went for the final leg to the day destination. It was vertical, we dropped 450m in 3 km, definitely a 30% + gradient.

View from the balcony at the Hotel Steinbeck

We staid at the Hotel Steinbock, conveniently located by the Coop, and surprise surprise we had another unexpected balcony with view on the Jungfrau, 3 days in a row with sun and beauty beyond measure, what are the odds of this?

We ended up walking 25km and I was ruined (I kind of wore new shoes and they turned out to be slightly small...one never learn hey? Luckily the day after I put on thinner socks and that was sorted).

Day 3 – Lauterbrunnen to Bundalp – 26km and 2140m up

20 July 2020

This was an epic long day. By the end of it we would have walked 26km and gained a tot of 2140m. The sun was on our side again, we knew it would have been a long day but we didn't get too stressed as we also knew we would end it in a hut at 1800m with nothing to do, better get there late and just enjoy the day! With this approach we kindly declined the appeal of the cable car outside the Hotel which would have spared us 800m of climbing, and started an ascent as steep as the descent the day before, I promise my fleece didn't stay on for long! The route leads you first on tarmac out of town and then in the wood, and with the Jungfrau in its morning glory it was a pleasure to walk despite the buckets of sweat pouring down my face.

We reached Murren (1620 m ) at 1oish, had a wee break and then started going up again, then it flattened a bit and then another vertical push to the Rotstock Hut (2039 m) which we reached at 12.30, in time for lunch – cheese sandwich and apple...as usual hunger is the best sauce, it did taste delicious!

There were not too many people around but still a few wondering, it was definitely much wilder that the previous days (...no train or road paralleling the path for a change), even if the views were equally excellent, if not more, the more elevation we gained. I think this bit was the one I enjoyed the most out of all the walk.

Honest the picture doesn't give justice to this place!

We were a bit scared of the last bit to the top as we knew it would be a bit “challenging” (=we would shit ourselves), but if it has to be done, it has to be down. We armed ourselves of courage, one step at a time, slowly and steady, and started the final 600m of ascent, in a landscape that was truly out of a science fiction movie. The symphony and shapes and colours was breathtaking and hard to take in. Pictures really don't make any justice to that! The meadows, and the last bit of scree too, were packed full of Alpine flowers of any kind, so many different species and colour! I was so absorbed in wander than I didn't even realise we were reaching the top!

I was really thankful to the flowers for keeping my attention out of the climb, as the last bit of steep scree, followed by vertical steps was a bit scary. We finally got on the top, Sefinenfurke (2612 m) at 2pm.

Going down on those steep steps / ladder looking at the void was a bit outside my conform zone but slowly slowly we made it and by 3pm we were out of the danger zone on the other side where we stopped for a recomposing / release of tension break. There we realised that it was still a long way down, as we had to drop more than 1000 m to reach the valley on rocky steep paths with tired legs. The views distracted us from the tiredness and finally at 4 pm we reached the junction at Steinenberg (1470 m). Instead of going down all the way to Gisalp we got a shortcut and cut off across the river from where we would start climbing again. We stopped at the bridge to prepare mentally for the final climb, and by that stage I couldn't be bothered the least, but as usual, if it has to be done, it has to be done. It started as a steep muddy path in the wood and then we emerged in high pastures, and with the chilly afternoon air it turned out to be a pleasure to walk.

At 5.15pm we finally made to Bundalp, which is a mix of refuge, mountain hut and farm at 1800 m, very basic but cosy and welcoming. Time to go through the usual routine (wash clothes, settle in the room and shower) and it was time for dinner....rosti!!! It was a bit of a small portion so that we complemented with some additional home made nut cake, apparently that day we spend over 3000 calories, not even counting the metabolic ones...energy in, energy out!

We were sleeping above the cows, with pigs, rabbits and chickens around keeping us company. I slept very well.

View from the room

Day 4 – Bundalp to Kandersteg – 17.4 km and 914 m up

21 July 2020

Another beautiful day on the Via Alpina. We could definitely feel the tiredness from the previous day but at least on the map this was a short / not so steep day. Today would lead us to the highest point of the route, to 2778 m, and the weather was changing with thunders expected in the early afternoon. We had a very early breakfast at 6.30 am (bread and jam and milk from the cow downstairs) and we left in a rush at 7.10 am trying to beat the forecasted rain.

You can see the Vaquitas coming back home from their morning jog

It was a steep climb from the start (see the pattern?) and after 5 min I had to take off my fleece. Unbelievable how warm it was up there so early, I would usually have worn 5 jackets at 1800 m in the early hours!

The sky was cloudy but the clouds were high and at least we could still get our views, with many Alpine flowers to cheer up the hardship of the climb, that the sign out of the refuge said would last 3h 20 min.

We gained elevation very quickly and soon we left the grassy slopes to enter the scree bit, which was very steep and slippery when wet. We managed to get over it when the sky opened and it was a massive downpour, luckily it found us passing below some big rocks that gave us shelter. Oh well, at least we didn't have to push any more to beat the rain... We stopped and realised that from there we could see the pass we came down from the day before, it's always good to see the progress! The rain didn't last long, and with a rain jacket on we pushed on for the final bit which was a series of endless vertical steps, less scary than the day before though.

We reached the Hochturli pass (2778 m) and it was not even 9am! It was quite chilly up there so that we didn't stop long.

Time for a few pictures and down we went the other side on a series of switch backs on scree whose gradient was definitely more human than the day before. Down down down, scree at first followed by grassy and stony steep paths. The more we descended the better the views of the glaciers around. We stopped for a break at 10.30 am, trying to waste time as the most of the day walk had already been covered and the check in at the hotel was at 2.30 pm...

Slowly slowly we reached the Oeschinensee lake (1593 m), of a very attractive emerald colour, and defined by cliffs of hundreds of meters drop, just stunning. There we started to meet the crowds again, as the cable car would bring them up close by. It was midday when we reached the touristy bit of the lake, and since we couldn't buy any lunch the day before, we spoiled ourselves eating a delicious Rosti and veggies in out of the many restaurants...that was really good and recharging!

After a chilled out lunch we started descending again for the final bit to town, Kandersteg, which we reached at 2pm. I quite liked that village, on a wide valley, small and welcoming and with good hiking opportunities nearby. After some treats shopping at the Coop we headed to our Hotel, Hotel des Alpes, relieved that we managed to go up, and especially down, the highest of the passes.

Day 5 – Kandersteg to Adelboden – 20km and 1323 m up

22 July 2020

And rain it was! All the previous afternoon had been sunny but hiding a hint of rain, and overnight the sky opened and it poured down all night. I woke up at 6am and noticed the balcony outside was half flooded...glad the shoes out there were not!

When we went for breakfast it was still pouring down, so that we took it easy as we were resigned for a rainy day, missing Scotland??

When we left the Hotel at 8.40am it stopped raining but the sky was still threatening, and as soon as we entered the woods it started again but there we had a good umbrella... The idea of going up to 2400 with that weather (thunders by then) was a bit scary, but again, there we were so let's just keep going! The path was muddy and slippery, but the sight of many swallows and a few salamanders cheered us up, until we emerged from the forest in high pastures.

I'm glad that from there we couldn't see the Pass, as it was honestly a vertical cliff up! The path found its way through the rocks, and in no time we were above the cliffs together with the cows! I did wonder how they made it up there until we saw a road on the other side...

Passed the cows it was a final push to the Bunderchrinde Pass (2385 m), when the sky finally cleared. For the first time we were the only people up there enjoying the view, which was quite something indeed!

The path was not too bad nor steep so that for once we actually enjoyed the climb, and also the descent. It took us 3 hours to get up there, and despite the efforts we were not that hungry (we may have eaten like pigs the day before..). After a few pictures we started the descent in the chilly air.

The views on the new valley were not as dramatic as in the previous days, but then we had been spoiled with a 5 star view of Eiger, Jungfrau, Wetterhorn...you can't get that every day I suppose! In the pastures below we stopped for lunch (cheese sandwich for a change) and then headed down the valley (no stopping due to the amount of horse flies sucking my blood...). We then had to climb again a few hundred meters to reach the centre of Adelboden (1350 m). The way in was not the best as it was industrial and busy with cars, but the town itself was not bad, nor was out Hotel Huldi, obviously with balcony overlooking the Pass we just came down from.

Day 6 – Adelboden to Lenk – 23 km and 763 m up

23 July 2020

We definitely started to feel the accumulated tiredness, and the fact that the views were not as dramatic as before, and the paths were a mixed of roads bypassing ski-lifts, didn't help to motivate us a lot. Not even the 5 start breakfast managed to charge us up! Unwillingly we got ourselves sorted and at 8.45 we left the cosy room...mmhhh...bit more in bed no?

The town was quiet as we descended to the valley on empty streets. We then started going up a nice wide path in the woods by a roaring river, and reached 2 ski resorts before finally reaching the Hahnenmoss Pass at 1956 m, topped with cable car and tourist resort...really uninspiring. I never understood who gives anybody the right to irreversibly spoil landscapes for the economic benefit of just a few, that's really beyond me.

You can find these fridges with local products by the paths. Farmers fill them in with their home made goods and payment is based on trust.

We didn't spend too much time there as it was a depressing place. Instead we changed route and followed a variant out of all that shit, which would bring us to Pommernpass (2055 m ), where the views were better and at least there were no buildings, plus, it's always good to add a pass over 2000 m to the list!

From there it was a loooooong never ending descent in the afternoon heat to Lenk, our daily destination, on roads and wide paths, passing through Simmenfalle. The last few km were flat and seeing town at a distance felt just like a mirage, where the town never really arrives. We finally arrived at 1.30 pm and went straight to check in and chill out at the Hotel Garni Alpenruch, where an amazing top floor room, with balcony, was waiting for us.

That night we rewarded ourselves with pizza and beer, hoping it would make the miracle and bring us back to life.

Day 7 – Lenk to Gstaad – 29 km and 1000m up

24 July 2020

We woke up eager to start the last walking day along the Via Alpina, and it was a proper rainy one! We set off at 8.10 am. I started off optimistically in a vest as it was already quite hot and the forecasts were positive too. We started climbing out of town and then through a forest by a nice waterfall.

The sign said there were Lynx, regrettably we haven't seen any, not much wildlife really, I guess way too many humans and cable cars around for their taste

Nobody was around, and as soon as we emerged from the forest it started drizzling. We were not sure if to wear the rain jacket or not as we didn’t want to boil in it, however the need for it was soon clear. Suddenly it became chilly, and really rainy, like Scottish rain with no signs of improvements from the sky. We entered pasture lands of bog and mud which made progress slow, playing the frog while trying to avoid the muddy puddles. We climbed and climbed, and it rained and rained (but no wind! Definitely an improvement from Scotland weather) until we finally reached the Truttlisberg Pass (2038 m) at 11am. There was the option to take a detour to the Tube, a short walk to 2107 m, where in ideal weather you could see the Eiger, but the circumstances made the choice easy and quickly we went down the other side. By that stage it was really cold and I had to put on all the warm layers. At least I used everything I brought…

The Pass was grassy with plenty of flowers, and after an initial short downhill where they fitted some construction to avoid the bog, we found ourselves on another land-rover track, and the rain stopped for a while so that we could have a dry lunch by the river. There was absolutely not a soul around, and we enjoyed our huge humus and avocado sandwich thinking the day after we would be back in a city.

The rest of the descent was shallow and graded and followed the river all the way down to the village. We had a few more downpours, but by the time we reached lower grounds the sun finally came out. Before reaching Gstaad, which we knew was a posh resort, we passed through a bunch of huge luxurious chalets, looking at our wet and muddy outfit we felt a bit out of place!

A bit further down we entered the centre of Gstaad with its fancy shops (do they sell outdoor equipment in Prada?), it felt a bit of an anti-climax really. It felt a bit posh but still it was a nice village with an overlooking castle / hotel. Still, I don’t understand all the fuss about it. Walking through all the other villages, pretty much all of them offered better views and trekking opportunities.

...very Swiss

We stopped at the Coop to get our dinner (no way we could afford eating out there!) and then walked a bit more to reach Hotel Bellerive. We ended up walking 28km with 2000 m of climbing, but today I didn’t feel the tiredness, it must have been the pizza power!

The Hotel turned out to be a huge disappointment. We have been very lucky with all the accommodation we stayed in, and really met nice people who at least tried to be nice and helpful, pity our luck run out on the last day! After walking in the rain all day, the only 2 words the lady at the reception said were “name”, followed by “passport”. She should work in a police station not in a hotel! This was the most expensive room of them all (184 CHF…) so that we had some high expectations for our “Superb double room”, which turned out to be on the ground floor, 2 steps from the car parking; Wifi was not working in the room (she said in Internet it does say only in common areas…actually it doesn’t grrr) and breakfast was a joke – no buffet, just stale bread a croissant.

Anyway, it was our last day so who cares? Because we made it! Total stats: 168 km walked (without counting those spent foraging) and 8897 m of positive elevation, and the same descending!

Bye Bye Gstaad!

Chill out day – Bern and Basel

25 July 2020

We originally had a flight back on Saturday from Geneva, but it was cancelled so that we booked another one from Basel on Sunday, and spent a very nice and relaxing Saturday strolling around Bern and Basel…somehow after walking 170 km up and down the mountains I got back home waiting 1 kg more, how is this even possible?? I blame my body chemistry, the ice-cream, buckets of muesli, pizzas (if you are in Basel go and check out the Striped Pizza, their vegan one is superb!), rosti and the delicious Swiss bread have absolutely nothing to do with this!!