½ Tour of Bernina + Livigno

Going back to the Alps always feels like going back home, and this time was no exception.

The Bernina Range is one of the highest of the Alps, it's covered by many glaciers and the highest pick is over 4.000m. We heard that the Bernina Tour was like the Mont Blanc one but without the crowds, and since we were planning a family gathering in Livigno, we took the chance and spent a few days walking the easy half in Switzerland. The southern bit is supposed to be a level which would challenge our confidence, so that we opted for the bit from Cavaglia to St Moritz.

Getting there
Getting to Cavaglia with public transport is not too difficult but requires some time. We flew to Bergamo (and took the chance to get an ice cream in our favourite Gelateria in the centre, Surya, definitely worth the detour!). We then get the 1h train to Lecco and enjoyed a nice evening at the lake, melting with 36 degrees, in a beautiful hotel room at Hotel Aberi looking at the lake, this is life!

Becuse we are not much of water people, and giving the crazy temperature, we spent the day after going up to Mt Resegone. We first got the bus n.5 from the centre to the cable car to Piani d'Erna, and then started a nice shaded walk in the woods (trees, I love you!) following the path n.1. We were planning to get on top of this ragged mountain but we were short of time and back stepped to Piani d'Erna instead, with a total of 12km and 820m climbed, not much but enough for a warming up day. We had lunch at the panoramic Rifugio Steppani, on a beautiful location ans slightly cooler than on lower grounds. 

We then got back to get the bus and managed to get on the 3.02 pm train to Tirano by miracle. We had to compromise on an ice cream but thought we could better use 2 extra hours settling down in Tirano and sorting ourselves out for the walk to come.

The train journey was actually very pleasant. Almost empty and with all the windows down, we passed through all Lake Lecco first, and majestic mountains later on. We didn't see much of Tirano. We first settled in our mini apart, booked via Bernina Express Rooms, which at first felt a bit doggy but at the end it was really worth it, and as soon as we got into the room a bit thunderstorm hit the town, which we really enjoyed watching from the cosyness of the room. 

 

 

Part I: 1/2 Tour of Bernina

 Day 1 – Cavaglia to Ospizio Bernina – 11km, 750m up

07 July 2019

We left Tirano and the warm low grounds on a sunny Sunday morning, to get the 9am Bernina Express up to Cavaglia. The train was packed full of people and we ended up in the bike couch, thinking if only we had a compartment for bikes on each train just like that in Scotland! Whoever came up with the idea of this train was an insane genius, the train twists up the Engadin Alps and it's truly a work of art, I still can't believe it works in winter too!

We got off in Cavaglia to start the Bernina Tour, following the Cicero guide “The Tour of the Bernina”. It felt good leaving the crowd (out of the train we met nobody...) and start the walk with a good climb! We already spotted our first glacier, and the upper we went the better the views. The path criss crosses the train line many times, so that we never really felt away from civilisation, still, the altitude, the fresh mountain air and the meadows flowers reminded us we were on the Alps.

Our day destination was the Ospizio Bernina, we knew it would be a short day so that we took a little etour up to the Rifugio Sassal Masone at 2333m. It was really worth going up there as the views were magnificent, and me I was really feeling like walking up... 

After that it was a slow descent to the Lago Bianco, we decided to reach the Ospizio Bernina by walking the long side of the lake, and had a nice lunch looking at it with little of no people around. The weather was a bit unstable, and a thunderstorm got us when we almost reached the end of the lake, it was less than 1h to reach our day destination but we got there soaking wet. The place was super busy as that morning there was a cycling race passing there and the staff looked a bit overwhelmed, however we got our keys to a beautiful little room with amazing views on the mountains and enjoyed a hot shower. By the time we showered the sun was out again but we couldn't be bothered to go out again as our shoes were still drenched in water and the place was just too nice.

Day 2 – Ospizion Bernina to Morteratsch, 20km, 700m up

08 July 2019

Ospizio Bernina is at 2253 m and it was a cold morning! The plan was to go up to Diavolezza, over 3000 m, but the weather was still unstable and we knew there could have been patches of snow to negotiate so that reaching the top was a bit of a question mark. Still, we left the Ospizio early as the trend was for afternoon thunderstorms, and off we went in the chilly morning air.

The views were beautiful from every side, the path was first flat and then it started climbing steeply, e did pass through some snowy bits, and finally had to abandon the plan at 2750m on reaching a steep and snowy/icy bit...no wonder we didn't see any other footprints in the snow! 

With no regrets we headed down towards Morteratsch, on a path which not many people walked given the amount of vegetation. We reached Morteratsch for lunch and suddenly remembered that we were in Switzerland...

It was still early and decided to go for a stroll on an easy flattish gravel road to the feet of the glacier, where finally we met people again. We then got back to the hotel where we spent the night, and when I found out that we were charged €5 for 1l of tap water I gave up on any hope for the Swiss...glad we spent 4 days only there!

Day 3 – Morteratsch to Pontresina (+Alp Languard), 24km, 1140m up

09 July 2019

Morteratsch to Pontresina is something like 10k flat, so that we decided to add a few detours to make the day longer and more rewarding. Detour number 1 was a walk up to the Chamanna de Boval at 2495m. The path starts going up and then follows the border moraine/trees, and ends with a good climb to the hut with amazing views on the glacier, like really you are above the glacier! It was a beautiful way to start the day, and leaving from the hotel we were the first to get there with not many other people around.

We then went back the same way and then got on the forest path to Pontresina, which is a cute village indeed. We spoiled ourselves and staid at the Hotel Schweizerhof in a super beautiful room with balcony, 2 bathrooms and a huge bedroom, this is life! 

We got there quite early and still with energy to spare we (meaning I, since Paul was not very enthusiastic at the idea of leaving that room for another scramble...) went for an afternoon stroll up to Alp Languard to check out the Ibex paradise, where ibexes are supposed to abound. The climb was really steep, and I was given 1h only to reach whichever point and then come back (this was the compromise to get Paul out of the room :). It was late afternoon by the time we reached the spot, and ended up seeing herds of people rather than ibexes, but still the views were absolutely stunning and worth the climb (me I was still in climbing mode...).

Back to the village we enjoyed our castle and an unexpected Thai dinner. Foodwise we have definitely been eating better than in the Mont Blanc, I even managed to spend 1 week without having to eat bread and cheese!

 

Day 4 – Pontresina to St Moritz via Fuorcla Surley, 24km, 1050m up

10 July 2019

This was the last day of our tour of Bernina, the sky was blue but we were very reluctant to leave that beautiful room. After an abundant breakfast (somehow I haven't lost any waight...) we headed off on a nice forest path in the chilly morning air. The sun was not out yet and I was freezing, finally we reached a pasture and started to take off clothes, both for the sun and the fact that the next bit looked steep. It was a good climb indeed, slowly slowly we finally spotted the highest peak of the Bernina Range, and by midday we reached Fuorcla Surley at 2755 m of altitude, the view of the glaciers was the highlight of the tour!

The descent was slow and freezing, due both to the altitude and a cold wind coming from the other side, but once we reached the tree level it was back to boiling hot, glad I brought 4 seasons of clothes (4 clothes really, one for each season...).

We finally reached St Moritz from the opposite side and it took some time to get to the centre and find our Hotel, Soldonella. I really can't understand what's all the fuss with this town, personally I found it overpriced, badly planned and with a ridiculous number of cars and roads. We still celebrated the end of the part 1 of the holiday, and couldn't wait for a day off with no climbs!

Part II: Livigno

 Very gladly we got on the bus which brought us back to Italy. In 1h we were entering Livigno, located at 1816m of altitude,it's the second highest Italian town. It's a well known skiing resort in winter, and in summer it's a hiker and biker paradise. I've been there a few times already and thought it would be a good place for a family gathering and for Paul to get to know the place. The weather was not the best but overall we have been lucky and got soaked only occasionally. 

 

Day 1 – Walk: Valle delle Mine and Mottolino – 24k and 884m up

12 July 2019

We wanted to go cycling first but the sky looked threatening and we decided to go for a hike intstead, aiming at covering 20km at least before getting back to the hotel. Livigno is very long and it took us 2h to walk all the way to the start of the walk up to the Valle delle Mine where we had a nice coffee at the Rifugio.

We then got back via the high route, stopping at a hut for lunch, and then getting shelter from a downpour at the Mottolino, our arrival was perfectly timed!

Day 2 – Walk: Carosello 3000 – 22k and 1150m up

13 July 2019

The weather was still not stable and we went for another hike again, this time to the opposite side of the valley up to Carosello 3000. We headed off on a steep climb and when we reached some elevation we could feel a very strong and cold wind, definitely worth of Scottish standards. Somehow we reached the Rifugio but it was closed, so that we prepared our cheese sandwiches on the huge terrace outside sheltered by the wind. We then went down on the big gravel road and were surprised by the sight of Highlands cows at ease with the elements.

We couldn't stop until we reached at least 20k, so that we kept going to the Latteria Livigno for an ice cream, and then to the Baita del Ghet for pizza and pannacotta, those 2 are definitely the places to eat in Livigno!

Day 3 – Cycle to Cancano Lakes – 40k and 1400m up

14 July 2019

Finally we woke up with a clear sky and went straight away to rent the bikes right outside our Hotel, at the Vertical Outdoor, this place is really recommended, the guys are great and they really look after their bikes!

We were aiming at the Lago del Cancano loop, which we knew would be demanding and requiring MTB skills. Given the amount of pushing the bike (up and down!) I'm not sure this actually qualifies at cycling but somehow we managed to get to the top, and then down to the lakes, and again up and down from the other valley. My legs were ok but I could definitely feel my arms! 

 

Day 4 – Cycle to Forcola di Livigno and back – 30k and 550m up + Walk to Crap de la Paré – 10km and 500m up

15 July 2019

Finally, and gladly, we reached our last day of holiday! The sky was dark and not promising, but we were determined to make the most of it and went again to rent the bikes at the same place. We headed off to the Forcola, the Italian/Swiss border, following a much more pleasant and cyclible gravel road through the valley. The last bit was steep but overall it was a nice morning out.

Being a 30kmride we were back at lunch time and went for a piadina at the Latteria, then we gave Paul some peace and headed for another vertical (oh yes I love verticals!) up to the Crap de la Paré. We walkd the 5km in 1 hour and were rewarded with magnificent views. We got spared the downpour that was moving fastly all around us, and in 45min we were back at the hotel and ended the trip with another piazza, prosecco and limoncello, it couldn't get more Italian!