Easter in
the West Coast
19-27
April 2019
It
is now the fourth year that we spend Easter cycling somewhere in the
West Coast, and so far we have never regretted it. On the contrary,
every year it seems to get better and better! We have hanged a map of
Scotland in the kitchen wall, and marked all the routes we cycled
through, so that every new trip tends to cover and unmarked bit. This
year we put a bit of everything in the blender: isles, some coastal
walking, NCN routes, hill walking, ferries. The result was not a
continuos death cycle as in previous year, still it absolutely
exquisite!
Day
1: Getting to Kennacraig
– 57km and 800m up
Friday
19 April
Day
1 was quite uneventful, it was just a day on known territories, to
get close to Islay. It was the Easter public holiday weekend and both
train and ferry were packed full with cyclists (20 bikes on the train
to Ardrossan, and 80 bikes on the ferry to Brodick), surprisingly
nobody complained and nobody got kicked out.
The air was festive,
chilly and windy, but the sun made the difference and put us on a
good mood. Despite the cold air we did manage to warm up on the first hill to Locranza!
In
Locranza we had to wait 1h for the ferry to Claonaig, which we spent
having our delicious sandwich outside the Arran Distillery. Once in
Claonaig we cycled to Kennacraig to our B&B, the Glenreasdale
House B&B in Whitehouse, which turned out to be the worst of the
trip...the guy didn't really have a clue how to run it and be
welcoming, good stuff we didn't spend too much time there. Because
it's in the middle of nowhere, but close to the ferry terminal for
Islay, we then cycled another 7 miles to go to Tarbert for food, and
7 back to digest the dinner.
Apart
from the location, this B&B was strategially chosen so to give us
motivation to leave early in the morning!
Day
2 – Islay – 45km mostly flat
Saturday
20 April
And an early start it was indeed! The
ferry to Port Ellen was scheduled at 7am, but you need to get there
by 6.30am, so that we woke up at 5am to get sorted,
cycle the 2 miles to the terminal and queue (not many people around
really...). Good news is that the ferry was great and the breakfast
they offered was good too, plus, all the staff was super cheerful
despite the early hour, it must be great working there we thought!
We
were quite exited to land in an unknown island, plus the sun was
still shining on us which promised a great day. Islay is not big, our
day destination was Port Charlotte, just 20 miles away, so that we
decided to go for a stroll along the coast and opted for the 5 miles
path to the Soldier Rock. The path itself was not the best (boggy,
faint and some crawling among the trees), however it was worth it as
the views were great and we met absolutely nobody.
Back
to the bikes we started cycling and opted for the back road to
Bowmore, the biggest town in the island, where we stocked up food at the only Coop and
had a second sandwich. Everybody in town really seemed in a good
mood, it must have been the sun!
From
there it as an easy and quick ride to Port Charlotte, a charming
little village by the sea with no much to do. After a quick visit to
the town we headed to the lighthouse where for the first time we had
a heavy shower, which luckily did not last long. We were staying at
the SHYA and really enjoyed the place. It was cosy, well equipped,
and they put a lot of emphasis on sustainability, I really really
recommend it!
Day
3 - Islay and Jura – 62km, 400m up
Sunday
21 April (Happy Easter!)
Finally
a morning with no alarm clack, we took it easy and slowly
packed our panniers with yet another sunny day in front of us. This
was our last day in Islay, as we would take a late ferry to Jura in
the afternoon. Again, because the distance to cover was not
remarkable, we decided to fill the day with a couple of detours.
First we cycled up to Ardnave and had a pleasant walk to the sea
otter spot (no otters nor seal seen, but the bird life was quite
remarkable!). On the way back we stopped at the RSPB centre, which
was unstaffed but still offered a lot of information on the local
birds and a great hot chocolate.
Energies
restored we got back on the saddle, direction Finlaggan! We found out
about this historical place on a map in the hostel and really glad we
went there as the place is really suggestive and inspiring, we could
just breath history in the air.
From
there it was a quick 3 miles descent to Port Askaig, which we thought was a
proper village but has nothing more than the terminal, a hotel and
the post office...glad we did not stop there! Instead we got on the
10 min ferry to JURA, one of the most difficult islands to get to.
The
wind was fierce and obviously was facing us, but it was only 10 miles
to Craighouse, the only village in the island, where a superb room was waiting for
us in the equally superb Jura Hotel. The road was absolutely empty,
and steep, and panoramic. I have a hate/love relationship with that
stretch, from one side I absolutely loved the feeling of remotness
and wilderness, but the constant hills and headwind were pissing me
off too, then I started laughing as I realised how stupid that was...
I couldn't really do anything about them! We arrived in this
sheltered village, with sunshine, and the thought we have made it for
the day, and decided we deserved a beer...outside! What a treat! The
Jura Hotel was indeed worth staying, dinner was great too, although
the portions could have been more generous (Paul got literally 5
gnocchi haha).
Day
4 – Jura – Walk + 27km cycled
Monday
22 April
Today
was an exceptionally amazing and unpredictable day. The original plan
was to walk the 3 Paps of Jura, then get the ferry back to Port
Askaig, sleep there and catch the ferry to the mainland the following
morning. After breakfast (homemade granola gnam gnam) we realised we
could get the 5pm ferry to Tayvallich instead, which would have made
a more human day the day after. In 5 min we booked a room in
Cairnbaan, and much relieved we cycled the 4 flat miles to the
starting point of the walk.
The
first bit was a bit boggy, I was soooo glad it hadn't been raining
recently or it would have been a sea of sinking mud! After a while we
reached a lake, from where the proper climb started. We realised that
it wouldn't have been an easy walk, and understood why it was marked
with 5 boots in different websites. The path was faint, and the
gradient...vertical! We were glad we had the gps route and checked it
at every 5 min. The first climbing bit was in grassy slopes so that
we managed to gain elevation easily. After that it turned into loose
gravel and rocks, which occasional would slide down...with us on
them! Somehow we managed to reach the top of the first Pap, which
filled us with joy. The views were indeed sublime and we felt
privileged to be up there.
Finding
the way down from the other side was a bit tricky, however the
descent was way better than the ascent. The wind was really strong,
and considering the time, the fact we had to catch the 5pm ferry, and
that the other 2 Paps looked like vertical scree, we decided
to bail out and head back to the lake for some suntanning instead. I
can't believe that they run a fell race there!! The only other people
we met that day was a couple, who got lost on the way up to the top
and abandoned the walk altogheter. At least we made it all back down
safely! It was an amzing experience bt I was quite glad to have a
chilled out lunch by the lake with my feet in his cold waters!
Back
to the bikes we cycled the 4 miles back to the village...where we
found out that th 5pm ferry was actually full, still, somehow we
managed to get on it and had a great time in the hour journey to the
mainland. The sea was not too moved, and I'm really glad it was not
raining nor cold!! Reaching the beautiful village of Tayvallich from the
seaside was quite a unique experience, we finally felt we made
it...even though we still had to cycle a few miles to Cairnbaan. At
6pm we got on the saddle again, dreaming with food and a cosy room.
The cycle was actually nice, and the last few km were along the
Crinan Canal, all left to us to enjoy.
At
7pm we finally reached the Cairnbaan Hotel, located along the canal
by cherry trees in blossom,what a trat of a place! We had a quick
shower and rushed down to get food, which was the best of the trip for
me. Coulinary experience in the Highlands has definitely improved
since I moved to Scotland 12 years ago. Back then you would only get
fish and chips and rolls, now there are even vegan options!
Day
5 – NCN 78 to Oban – 75km and 1000m up
Tuesday
23 April
Another
sunny day, and headwind, again...we felt the wind kept changing
direction just to piss us! Today was the first full cycling day,
I did the route from the other direction years ago and remembered it
would be bumpy, which is what everybody told us that day... On a good
mood we went back on the Crinan Canal, which we left shortly to get
on a secondary road which passed through the Moine Mhor National
Nature Reserve, a beautiful open space.
We
then followed the NCN 78, where Sustarns gave the best of themselves
mapping the route up an unpaved deviation to bypass 1km of what most
likely was private land, then on the A816 for a few km (really?),
then back on a road to Ford where we had a nice break in the
company of a social cat.
Next
bit was hilly, like a lot! More like a coastal roller all the way
along Loch Awe, which we never really saw... We then stopped half way
through the Loch in Dalavich, the only place with a village shop. It
was 11.30am and they would start making food at 12, so that we had an
unexpected but welcoming 1h lunch break, which was worth the wait as
the falafel wraps were amazing and gave us a break from the headwind
which was still brutal.
Day 6 – NCN 78 to Fort William – 80km nd 800m up
Wednesday
24 April
The
keyword of the day was HEADWIND! Reluctantly
we left the beautiful B&B and instead of following the NCN 78 we
decided to follow the cycling path by the coast up to Dunbeg. Then we
went on the busy A85 until we rejoined the NCN 78 route at the Connel
bridge, I'm still shivering and still not sure how we managed to get out of it alive.
The
route then follows the old railway line and is kind of straight and
pleasant. Headwind still strong and slow progress with a few breaks
but I was actually enjoying the ride.
The
side wind was so strong on the Creagan bridge that I had to walk the
bike (proudly that was the only time I pushed the bike all over the trip!). The only
place we found to get some shelter from the wind was a bus stop in
front of the A85, a bit depressing, especially after noticing that
80% of the hundreds of cars which passed by in 20 min had a single
occupant really makes me sick...climate change anybody?
We
then followed the main road but on a foothpath until we said goodbye to
the traffic and boarded on the 10 min ferry that carried us from
Nether Locheber to Ardgour, where I had the biggest scone ever seen,
kind of family pack in one. Restored we then cycled the 10 miles to
Camusnagaul, again with strong headwind. Still I loved it, and I
loved cycling it in low gear to enjoy the views, the peace of the
place, and the empty road!
We
waited 1h 30min for the ferry that landed on the beach and brought
us glorious to Fort William (in the company of a very cute and
restless puppy). We then stocked up food and cycled to
the Glen Nevis SHYA. We had been there before a few times and were
surprised that it has been modernised since last time we were there.
The room was defnitely improved, but the kitchen poorly equipped and
definitely tiny when you think of the number of people it can host.
Still, we had a pleasant stay and enjoyed our huge plate of pasta at
the feet of Ben Nevis.
Day 7 – Ben Nevis
Thursday
25 April
After
2 full days of cycling we had a break from it and became hikers for a
day to go up Ben Nevis (same clothes and shoes really...) The weather
was uncertain but we gave it a go anyway and at 8am we were on the
move. It really felt like a morning stroll. Getting to the top is
always a unique experience, as in 2h you pass from spring weather to
Arctic. Walking, and sliding down on our ass on the snow is always
good!
Walking
rather than cycling felt great and in 2h 15 min we were on the top
with amazing views. We really took it easy, stopping for pictures
everytime we felt to, and by 12.30 we were already down laying on a
patch of grass blessed by the sun.
The
afternoon was spent at leisure shopping in town, which made us feel
for the first time that we were indeed on holiday!
Day 8 – Fort William to Corrour – 70km and 900m up
Friday
26 April
Loch
Ossian was in my head the highlight of the trip, and I couldn't wait
to get there. Plus, that day I would have reached 10,000km on Dharma,
which made the day feel special. I woke up with the “I need a hero”
tune in my head, but the lyrics went like “I need 63 ks, to reach
the 10,000 mark tonight, it got to be tough, it got to be muddy but it
has to be done sometime..” this I would sing at every km...sorry
Paul!
We
started by following the NCN 78 along the Great Glen Way and then
turned right to Spean Bridge. From there it was a painful and hair
raising 8 miles stretch along the A86 (we tried our best but it
couldn't be avoided). Coffee stop in Roy Bridge to recompose our
heads for the 8kms left on it, after which we finally got on a
secondary road to Fersit, not to see any roads ever again.
There
we said goodbye to paved roads and continued on a well surfaced
gravel road all the way to Corrour, where, half way along Loch
Ossian, I reached my 10,000km cycled with Dharma, happy birthday!
We
were originally planning to climb Beinn Na Lap but the weather was
not great (first day wearing my waterproof) and to be honest we
couldn't be bothered, we felt like we made it. We reached the SYHA at
3pm, and had a nice cup of hot chocolate and a surprise croissant,
and wee bottle of celebratory whisky (thanks Paul!!) while waiting
for the check in. The Youth Hostel is quite special, completely off
the grid, it can only be reached on foot, cycling and by train. It
has space for 20 people and had a cosy atmosphere, and it was warm!
We had a chat with a couple of hikers there, and then went for an
amazing hot shower. Looking out of the shower window I really felt I
was in the middle of nowhere, and it felt great!
We
didn't bring dinner with us and spoiled ourselves by having dinner in
the superb Currour Station House, 1 mile from the Youth Hostel.
Walking there in pour rain and wind, surrounded by miles and miles of
wilderness, wrapped up in everything we had, felt special. Dinner was
great and really abundant, and the staff super friendly...we knew
where we would have spent a few hours waiting for the train the day
after.
Day 9 – The return
Saturday
27 April
We
woke up with some rain, and decided to cycle the loop of the lake
(the loop of honor as Paul called it), an easy 13km flat to say
goodbye to this amazing adventure. Back to the Station House we took
a few “Trainspotting” pictures, and then got shelter with a warm
cup of tea. At the table we decided we will be back in the future and
cycle from there to Pitlochry via Rannoch...the adventure continues!
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