Cycling in the Lake District

(Happy Birthday Paul!)

7 to 10 July 2018

What a better way to pre-celebrate Paul's birthday than a good cycle around the Lake District? We wanted climbs and that's definitely what we got...possibly a bit too much really but what doesn't kill you make you stronger, or just very sore...

We based our routes on the Cicerone “Cycling in the Lake District” guide, very nice and handy wee book with many maps and practical details, although the steepness of the climbs can't never really be described

Day 1: Penrith to Cockermouth – 110km and 1610 m up

Saturday 07 June

We got an early train to Penrith and by 8am we were on the move. We first followed the C2C signs for the first 18km to Troutbeck (we never found this village) and then followed the route 2B of the book, a 46km detour which leads to Keswick through the North of the Park. It was kind of pleasant but there were not really dramatic landscapes and it was mainly a roller coaster on badly paved country roads, for a total of 620m of elevation gained. The sun was merciless with something like 26 degrees (are we in the UK, really?) still, a fresh breeze would occasionally cool us down.

Keswick was packed with cars and people (I found out only after that Kilian was there and the day after would break the record for the Bob Graham round, well done Kilian!), we got some food and escaped straight away. We started the second half of the day and followed the route 3B of the book, Keswick to Cockermouth via Lorton, for a total of 44km and 794m of elevation. After a few km we found a nice spot overlooking Derwentwater and stopped for lunch (number 2). We knew there was a pass to come and needed to top up energies. Slowly slowly we started the climb to the Honister Pass, with bits of 25% gradient, it was a true killer but luckily just a few km long. The road and the top were full of cars, which was unexpected as by then it was 2.45pm and at 3pm England was playing against Sweden...I guess sunny days make football less popular.

The descent was worse than the ascent, at some stage I smelt burnt from my breaks and started to freak out. I took it extra easy and fortunately it was not long before we reached flatter grounds again.

Getting to Cockermouth was another roller coaster, but at last the landscapes were much better than in the morning and we stopped at Buttermere for a well deserved ice cream made in the local farm, slurp!

We reached out destination at 4pm (while the game was still on) and while we failed to locate a spot by the river we enjoyed chilling out in the grass in the empty town.

We stayed at the Croft Guesthouse (very central!) and started the recovery phase as we were dead tired and the day after didn't look any easier!

Day 2 – Cockermouth to Ambleside – 92km and 1800m up

Sunday 08 July

We knew it would have been a demanding day and prepared with a huge breakfast. With the heat we were not as hungry as we would normally be but after reading the description of the day ride we knew we had to charge up energies..

And so it was, straight after Ambleside was another surreal climb to get up to the next village. I remember watching the odometer which said “km 7” and thought “today I'm really going to be f...d up!"

In the morning we followed the route 4A, fromCockermouth to Eskdale Green, 56km nd 897m up. It killed me. It was a continous going up steep short climb and down surreal descents, hundreds of times. We did go up a pass, the Burn Edge, but it felt more like one of those endless short steep climbs than a proper pass. Because we had a late start at 9am, we reached our lunch destinatin only at 12.30. With only 56km in the legs, it felt like we cycled 200 instead! We had our lunch in a comatous state and then realised that the village was actually further down, so that we stopped at the local shop for a top up ice cream (still hot and sunny with 28 degrees).

At the thought that we had still 2 passes to climb (rated at n.89 and 90 in the 100 most challenging climbs in the UK – with 100 being the worse..) we couldn't really be bothered! Still, with no bailout option we knew we had to suck it up and keep going. The plesant surprise was that the afternoon ride (5A – Eskdale to Ambleside over the passes – 35km and 830m up) was actually extremely nice, by far the bit we liked the most! The first one to the Hardknott Pass started straight away with a 30% incline (definitely pushed the bikes!) and then it eased off and became more cycleble. There were not even many cars around (some cars can't make it!) so that it was a pleasant slow climb with beautiful scenery everywhere. On top we met a guy who actually climbed it all, respect!

The descent was as steep as the ascent, and with the smell of burnt breaks still in my nose since the day before we decided not to risk it and pushed the bikes even on the way down! Once at the bottom it was another push/climb to the Wrynose Pass (ribabtised Rhyno's Pass). Here I created the best hit of the season “and a little steep climb here and there, cause we like to climb here and here, and if you don't want to climb with us, you can always go to the Rhyno's Pass!” ...so good that I can't take it off my head!

As always the reward is to get to the final destination, where a shower is waiting for you and a pizza too! Legs were on fire that I could barely walk the steps to our room!

Day 3 - Ambleside to Alston – 91km and 1600m up

Monday 09 July

One more day of climbing, we could barely wait! The day started with an amazing breakfast at the Brathay Lodge (still dreaming with that fruit salad...), this was our last day in the Lake District (thank God!) and we wanted to make the most of it.

Legs were sore but overall we didn't feel too bad. We followed the route 1A – Ambleside to Troutback over Kirkstone Pass, 35km and 750m up – and started climbing straight away to the pass on a main road packed with cars and not partculatly pleasant. Still, getting on the top powedered by your own legs (and without pushing for once!) is always rewarding. We didn't stay long as it was really busy with cars up there, and started the descent heading to the starting point.

We then retraced our way to Penrith (unbeliveble that we were there 2 days before, it felt like months!), stopping at the very nice Greystoke Cycle Cafe, which unfortunately is closed on Mondays but we were kindly allowed to use the facilities and lay down in the garden anyway.

We then followed the C2C to Alston, and spent the afternoon on the endless climb to the Hartside Pass and then a short descent to Alston, a quite town were every house seem to be for sale. We stayed at the Angel's Inn, the owner was super nice but the building itself a bit old and it smelt like fried food and beer, we felt like 2 merchants back in time but had a lovely time there.