TransAlps 6 - Bye bye Gunvald and Thorhildur

 

The First day was spent traveling, and was not the most relaxing. The taxi to the airport with the boxes went smooth, and that was pretty much the best part. The flight to Munich was a nightmare due to 4 men who spent it shouting football stuff (unfortunately that night was the champions league final, and a concert of a girl I never heard of but I was told is quite popular). At least we landed with only 30 min of delay, the bikes eventually arrived too and we put them together in 30 min just outside the exit door.

It was hot - 31 degrees. We headed to the train station and made it for the 3.36pm train. First we headed to a town after Munich central, and the train was hot and packed full, the more the stations the more the people. We got off and waited 30 min for the second train. There were bikes everywhere, like with the sun they were all out. In fairness they were all pretty chilled out, but a couple missed their train as there was literally no space left , like not even for people!

The second train was also packed full but we managed to get in and spent most of it standing up with the bikes. Finally at 6pm we reached destination: Garnish Partenchirchen (re baptised Gemuse Parkenstrase...). We were soooo done! We cycled to our hotel, the posh Atlas Grand Hotel, (posh but falling apart...). Paul was waiting outside with the bikes, the guy got 2 glasses of prosecco, and me telling him, well, he is outside with the bikes, and he thought we would just have left them unattended... Then a mess to find a place to park them (at the end we left them outside) and to find the room. I had a cold shower as the hot one didn't come out (you had to let it run for 20min, good stuff they cared about the environment and made me feel bad for asking for my receipt...), but finally, washed and changed in summer clothes, we headed off to Pizzeria da Renzo for some food. The place was full but we found a table. It was a massive pizza n.1 for Paul and pasta for me. We were so tired, hot and spaced out that we were not even that hungry, we certainly slept very well!

 

Day 1- Garnish Partenchirchen to Innsbruck via Mittenwald - 76km and 800m up
Sunday 1 June 2025

Our luck finally turned. After a great night sleep we felt reborn. We had breakfast at 7am, usually we are the first but Germans are early starters too. The cappuccino was disgusting (na schifezza!), but we had a nice bread with scrambled eggs (proteins!) and we definitely ate for the 15 euros that we each paid.

We set off shortly after 8pm and the first couple of km were flat. It was Sunday and the roads were quiet, then we got on a small road and there were so many hikers! Like honest, Germans are really early birds! We overtook them and got to "the wall", a couple of Km at 32% average, I struggle to walk them! At least we were gaining elevation, pushing the bike is absolutely fine by us so no guilt there, and there was nobody around.

The going was slow, but once we reached top number 1 of like 35, it felt like heaven. We were in the Alps, meadows full of flowers, snowy mountains everywhere, and peace! The next 20km were a dream cycle, like very bumpy but the views made up for it all. We were either on minor roads or gravel of great condition in forests, or by lakes, and all to ourselves. We then descended to Mittenwald (I have no idea how many times I've cycled that road on FulGaz on the turbo, it was like, is this reality??). We then got on a road that climbed a bit (it looked flat but I was almost in granny gear) and we entered the Tirolo area and Austria, and what a welcome!

At 11am we reached a town called Leutasch, and we were both a bit peckish. We found a restaurant and stopped for a strudel and a proper cappuccino, we thought it would have been rude not to!

Batteries recharged we got on the road, climbed a bit more (thanks strudel!) and then started a long descent. After the first turn all the views on the Inns valley below opened up, what a show!

We soon reached the town of Telfs at the bottom and we got on the perfect cycle path that runs all along the valley, the dream cycle path!

We stopped at a gas station to grab a sad sandwich, like really sad, and then kept going until we found a bench to sit down. It was almost 1pm, it was hot but it started spitting a bit then. The amount of cyclists around was insane, we joined them in what felt like a convoy to Innsbruck, the more we approached the more the people.

It was sunny again, and hot, and Innsbruck just has good vibes. It was the 4th time we were there and it never disappoints. We had to kill some time as check in was at 3pm, so we got an ice cream, then sat on bench, then spent 30min looking for the hotel so we actually got there at 3.30pm...

We were at Motel One, just by the train station, floor 9 and a wall window overlooking the city (but not the side of Nortkette booooo).

After a shower we headed out and just wondered around, we had a Thai dinner, then we walked along the river. We knew the weather would turn the day after and though we should make the most of the dry weather and beautiful town.

As soon as we went to sleep the lightenings and thunders started and the sky was falling...

Day 2 - Innsbruck to Mayrhofen, the flat way - 80km and 200m up
Monday 2 June 2025

The original plan was to reach destination by a mountain pass, but all the mountains were covered and the forecasts said rain in the afternoon, so we opted for the easy option along the perfect cycling path along the Inn valley.

We had an overpriced breakfast 18 euros each and not a return for that amount, but at least the cappuccino was better than the day before...

We then left Innsbruck following the path by the river and got to a place called Jenbach, where we thought we would stop for lunch, but it was a busy mess of traffic, the weather was holding, so we decided to move on to the next one up the other valley. After 50km we reached Schlitters (re baptised Shitter, which kind of fitted better), took ages to cross the road to a Billa where we got our lunch (a nice salad and bread) and later found out there was an underpass... The sky was turning black and we went to look for shelter to eat our goodies, we found the perfect one: a football field with covered benches. The rain started but we were nice and cosy there, looking at the birds on their foraging missions, including quite a few red kites!

We still had 29km to destination, and the forecasts said the worse of the rain would be at 3 pm. Paul wanted to get the train but I forced him to cycle...a perfect cycling path and mountain views, no people and mild rain, that was a no brainer to me! We also had a strong tailwind finally and we were flying up the valley.

At 2.30pm we reached destination, and what a disappointment...cars everywhere, posh, just a sense of not belonging here. The hotel das Cityhouse is also a bit sad, and I was starving (cold makes me hungry!). We finally got the code to get the key to get in this cold and dump place, then rushed to the info office in pissing rain, where we found out that the pass tomorrow should be passable (it was closed last week because of snow), raided the Spar and got way more than we need (never shop hungry, but the discovery of onigiri will be life changing!) and now finally we are here chilling out and preparing the attack plan for tomorrow... whatever will be will be!

Day 3 - Mayrhofen to Vipiteno via Passo di Vezze - 40km and 400m up
Tuesday 3 June 2025

We woke up at 6.45m and the sky was falling, like honest I can't believe how much it was raining. The forecast said rain until 9am, so we decided to try our luck with the 9.05am bus instead than the 8.05. Breakfast was better than what I thought we would get, no cappuccino but at least we got the basics, I even enjoy the bocadillo with tomatoes and boiled egg.

We packed and headed to the bus station, and the amount of cars around at that time was insane, like a neverending procession. We managed to get the bikes on the bus and off we went. In truth most of the cars were indeed going up the other valley, and the road up was quite spectacular, finding its way up this vertical valley with water coming down in waterfalls everywhere we looked. I was starting to regret the decision of getting the bus when the second half started. It was steep, narrow and with long tunnels wide enough for one car only. I'm glad we went for the bus, I would have been way to anxious holding up cars behind on a speed of 6km/h and no way to let them pass.

Anyway, just before 10am we reached the end of the bus line and it felt like heaven. The clouds were still covering the mountains but we could get some views and it was just stunning.

After a few pictures we started to pedal and got on the gravel path. Shortly after we started the hike a bike as it became a bit rocky...all around were rocks! We met a young shepard taking down his flock and had a lovely chat with him, he asked about our travels and somehow in his intrigued eyes I could read that it's something he wouldn't mind doing himself.

 

We were wearing all out clothes as we thought it would be chilly at 1800m, but the sun came out and so did them. We stopped every now and then for pictures and just really to give ourselves time to sink in where we were. Nobody around, magic. We had a pretzel snack and moved on.

I remember asking Paul if there would be stream crossings and he said “no no we are good”....and the shoes came off!

There was still a bit of snow here and there but it was really all passable, although the amount at the side of the track made us very happy we were not there a week before!

At noon we finally reached the Passo Vizze, at 2200m, and what a view! We spent ages looking around and taking pictures and then finally started the long descent on a very smooth gravel road, we were in Italy!!

We got the occasional shower and stopped to see it off, then kept going until we reached the tarmac, then down to a village called St Giacomo, pretty dead but we found a restaurant which was serving food (to the local kindergarten kids!). The woman, who was also the cook and possibly the owner, was quite a character, like no messing around, it was more of a duty than a job for her to feed people, it was just lovely!

We had delicious ravioli with spinach and me something called candereli, which were delicious! We ate like kings and then proceeded the descent, which was not really a descent as there was a long flat stretch with headwind. I felt a bit tired and generally spaced out by then, and managed to hit my shin with the pedal quite badly by slipping my foot on the pedal, like spiked trail running shoes on MTB pedals...how???

Anyway, I tried to forget all the self injuries I was inflicting myself and off we went again, with the occasional heavy shower alternated by boiling sun. It was a day like this!

We reached Vipiteno at 3pm sharp, in time for the check in at the most amazing apart, the Maximilian just out of town, like this place is big, spotless and just generally great to be in. The lady was also super nice and was laughing t our mis/adventures, she couldn't believe we came down the pass. I'm so glad we are spending a day off here tomorrow.

We got cleaned and headed to the centre for an ice cream, I booked the hairdresser for tomorrow, checked the launderette situation, then to the shops which were a bit disappointing but we got all we needed for a very nice dinner - we finally ate the pouches of grains we bought in Germany on day 0, and so many greens and goodies that all my vitamins have been replenished. Day off tomorrow yuhuuu! (We are having a great time)

Vipiteno day off
Wednesday 4 June

We were hoping to chill out in the sun and enjoy the big terrace, but it has been cloudy all day. At least we managed to chill out and even get bored!

We slept 9 hours in the most comfortable bed, had a nice breakfast with no rush, then I went to cut my hair while Paul did some bike maintenance. We then went to wash our stinky clothes and had a walk in town. Shopping at Lidl on the way back (we found out too late that there is a Eurospar, which is not the Eurospin damit!), then a nice lunch of the food we accumulated so far, then more chilling out, walk to the centre for a very undeserved ice cream, and to check how we get out of town tomorrow. Now I feel like cycling again, just hope to see some sunshine!

Day 5 - Vipiteno to Cortina d'Ampezzo - 116km and 1330m up
Thursday 5 June

What a day! It felt so long and varied that I'm struggling to put it all in my head.

We woke up at 6am in the nice apartment and it was raining boooo. Our plans for the high pass were abandoned and we took it easy thinking the 'flat' route would be easy like a walk in the park.

By the time we set off at 7.30am it stopped raining but the sky looked cloudy and heavy. The exit from town went smoothly with no navigational problems (although they could really put a few signs here and there given the amount of cyclists that pass through..), apart from an underpass that was flooded and washed our knees.

We were on the Munich Venice cycling path and the first few kilometres were straight and flat by the highway, with headwind of course. Then the valley got narrow and from there to Fortezza, at km 22, was all a succession of snappy climbs and steep descents. We were the only cyclists around and enjoyed being back on the bike.

We had a quick stop at the train station to sort out the clothing (it was warm even if still cloudy) and readjust my bags as I packed really bad. Off we went, keeping on the cycling path that bypassed Bressanone and now headed North East towards Brunico. We have cycled this years ago and remembered that it was bumpy as hell, but at least the clouds disappeared and finally we saw the blue sky hurray! We stopped at a lovely service station for a cappuccino and warm croissant with apricot jam, eaten in the sun, that was amazing. I even took off my jacket and got the sun cream out of the bag!

 

Then we kept going first by the highway then on a quiet road by forests, still bumpy but the sun made all the difference. We started to get cyclists coming from the South and we're extra careful as we expected a few of them getting on our lane but it all went well. At km 57 we reached Brunico, at about 10.30am, and stopped at a bench to eat the pizzette bought the day before, we were both quite peckish and they went down very well.

We knew it would be climbing from there. We set off on a nice gravel road in the forest and by the river, quiet and peaceful and it was really lovely. A few clouds started to appear but all still good. We were both sweating a lot in between the sun, the humidity of the luxurious vegetation around us and the climbs, and when we passed by a village we stopped for a well deserved lemon soda.

It was about noon and we pushed on thinking we would get a nice lunch in Dobbiaco, at km 87. To get there we emerged on a lovely valley that was a dream to cycle on. The cycling path was still bumpy but not extremely so, and snaked its way among fields packed full of colourful wild flowers and the view of majestic mountains, we were finally in the Dolomites!

We reached a village that we thought was Dobbiaco (but that was Monguelfo), the shop was closed and the only bar only had cheese sandwiches, so we ate me the tomato roll I prepared for breakfast, and Paul a bag of crisps. We realised that Dobbiaco was 4 km away and thought we would find a restaurant there.

Off we went, until we got to the junction where we got on the path to Cortina, and there was a nice and inviting restaurant with a sign 'pasta'. It was 1.30pm, we had 87km in the legs and what felt like 2000m of climbing and definitely time for lunch!

We sat inside as the sky looked dubious, the staff there was lovely, and while we were eating our huge plate if pasta with tomato sauce I could hear the man talking to a group at the other table in my dialect...so when he passed by I asked him 'te to set de bergem?' (=are you from Bergamo ??) and from there we spent like 30 min chatting about his extremely adventurous and varied life, that's the way to live! (Paul also got the confirmation that everyone from my town is fucked up in the head).

It was past 2 pm and we still had 32 km and 300m of climbing, so off we went on this gravel path that we now have cycled 3 times. Lovely but hard work... variable gravel, climbing, head wind, and also rain this time!

Shortly after we started we saw black clouds in the mountains we were headed to, and shortly after the sky opened! The jacket and visor went on and I'm so glad we had mudguards...it eased at times and we also had the occasional sunshine, at least until we reached Passo Cimabanche at 1500m high, and where we left the region of Trentino to enter Veneto.

By then I was really done, we only had 10 miles to destination though, and all descent, so we stopped for a little celebratory / relief break. Then it really started pissing down, like no mercy and no stop. With the descent and the rain I got so cold that my teeth kept shaking, but I knew it would be over soon and indeed we finally left the loose gravel for tarmac and in 3 more km we reached Cortina and out hotel, where I spent 5 min in a scolding hot shower to feel my body again... Thank goodness we didn't go up the other pass at 2300m or we would really have been in trouble!!!

We had the disgusting recovery drink that Paul bought (he likes it, weirdo), put ourselves together and went to the coop to get our dinner. It's a shame that we can't see the beautiful mountains here around but there is still hope that maybe tomorrow we can see something (the forecasts are not that reliable as it's all unpredictable right now...bring me the sunshine!!!)

Day 6 - Cortina d'Ampezzo to Arabba - 55km and 2000 m up
Friday 6 June

The fist day without rain!!! It had to be celebrated with a morning vertical...

I slept like a log and woke up at 6.45am, we didn't have many expectations for breakfast but it turned out to be better than we thought, at least the bread was nice. We were both quite anxious for the big morning climb, the sky was all low clouds but we were optimistic...

We set off at 8.15am on the main road out of Cortina, the got on the cycling path and then on the road down to the campsite. The first 4 km were fast, then the wall started, and to our surprise it was tarmac. We started climbing what felt (and probably was) more than 20% gradient, thinking we would start pushing when it turned into gravel, but that didn't come so after 1 km all the layers went off and we started the long push the bike up a nice forest road. Needless to say we were gaining elevation quickly, the clouds would occasionally break up and reveal huge snowy mountains everywhere, which made the ascent more pleasant and bearable.

We finally got on gravel at about 1800m high, where a kind of hotel was, the alpine flowers started to appear everywhere, and we only met a car all the way up. We thought the Rifugio Crado del Lago would appear soon, but it was another steep climb up there on gravel alternated to cement when it got very steep (I may have nightmares tonight...cement nooooo). At 11 we finally reached the Rifugio (closed) at km 12, and stopped at the lake to put on layers as it was chilly up there (2000m high).

We then tackled the last 2km to Forcella Ambrizzola on a nice path, and we reached it together with a group of 4 Asian guys who looked at us as we came from the moon... We stopped there for a pizzetta and to take pictures, that was the point where we were on the Alta Via 1 years ago, and we could see Cortina way below, which filled us with satisfaction, we made it!

We thought the hard part was done but the next 1.5km on the path (still climbing a bit) was very rocky, technical and narrow, which made the going very slow, additional cuts appeared on my legs (they don't look good...),and I hit the front mudguard against a rock...Paul kind of fixed it but it was still very rattly, oh well! The descent finally started, the path was still a mess and we had to carry the bikes multiple times, until finally we reached the gravel road, which was way too steep to cycle to start off with so more pushing was involved, and there was another climb too...

Finally we got to the stage that we could actually sit on the bikes and freewheel down to Rifugio Città di Fiume (also closed) where we met a couple who was checking the place as the guy was running an ultra from Forno di Zoldo the day after. It was nice talking to them (they also thought we were a bit fucked up in the head when we told them our story...) and they guaranteed that the perturbation was over and the African heat was coming...live and dream I thought!

We parted and started the long descent, in between the rattly mudguard and squeaky breaks it was all a mess, but finally we hit the tarmac road and from there it was a pleasure going down with the mountains all around as a background on quite roads.

We reached the little town of Caprile at km 35 and It was 1.30pm, much better than what I estimated! It was definitely lunch time and we found the ristorante San Marco which was packed full of kids (last day of school before the summer holidays!!). It was a lovely and authentic place and we had a huge plate of Penne with tomato sauce and 2 cokes, as we still had 20km and 600m of climbing to destination... señor dame la fuerza!

It was warm, there were so many cyclists around and the traffic was not too bad. The climbs were kind of steep (they were 3 and kind of flat bits in between ), and although we sweated buckets it was a joy to be there and see the occasional snowy peaks in the distance. As we approached Arabba the traffic and bikes got more and more, but still we had a very good afternoon, apart from the fact that my front light detached, fell on the ground and disintegrated...

 

We reached destination shortly before 4pm and stopped at the centre to recover, and to look for a front light. Our beautiful Hotel Garni Serena is 1km out of town up the road to Passo Pordoi, and we reached it in a comatose state, but the hotel and the room is beautiful, and the hosts super kind, they also gave us electric tape so Paul managed to fix my mudguard, and maybe my brake too.

After washing the clothes it was already time for dinner, which was down at the centre at another hotel. We stuffed ourselves like pigs and walking back up was a bit challenging...

There were already preparations for the event tomorrow, and the energy is definitely in the air. It's mostly male roadies around, but we are looking forward to test ourselves on the 4 passes, bring it on... together with the African heat!???!!

Day 7 - Sellaronda - 52km and 1600m up
Saturday 7 June

We have cycled the Sellaronda!!!! and we didn't even feel too tired after, possibly the lack of bags and the slow going (no way you can go fast) helped, but also the good atmosphere around, and despite the thousands of cyclists around it didn't feel stressful at all as no motorbikes (we will pay for this tomorrow...) and cars really made it feel pleasant.

We woke up at 6.30am and the sky was all covered, but the forecast said no rain (we still brought all the waterproof). We had a lovely breakfast with everything you can dream of, even crostata and fruit salad!

We then got ready and set off shortly after 8am. The roads were closed from 8.30am but there were already many cyclists around. We went down to the centre and got on the road to the first pass, Passo Campolongo at 1875m (Arabba Is at 1600m). It was a short one, only 4 km and we had to get used to the many bikes, either overtaking or we overtaking them. The first pass came very quickly, not many views as the sky was all cloudy but it wasn't too cold either.

Picture at the sign and down we went for 6km to the village of Corvara, at 1522m where we stopped at the loo. More cyclists were coming from other roads and as we looked up we could see all the road packed full of them, and we were part of this, it was so cool! We expected mostly roadies but there was really a bit of everything, many ebikes, trailers with children and dogs, families, tandem, children (going up quite well even!) and also foldable bikes (Brompton and Birdies), and it was all pretty civilised, like quiet pace, no dangerous overtaking and generally no assholes around.

The climb to Passo Gardena, at 2134m, was 9km to gain 600m, but I found the perfect pacers and stuck behind them almost to the top. At some stage I also asked them if they didn't mind and then we started chatting (which is the best way to pass time up a climb). They were from Rimini and had already done the loop the day before. They also told us that the closure day at the Stelvio is not as good as the cyclists there are badly behaved. Good to know as we were planning to do it next year!

The sky was clearing here and there and we stopped for a picture, what a place we were in! We also got used to all the mess around and by then we learnt to blend in.

We reached the Pass shortly before 11am, ate a bar, put on the jacket and started the short 5km descent with beautiful views everywhere.

We quickly got to Plan di Gralba at 1800m where I managed to use the portaloo with no queue (I bet everyone thought there would be queue and stopped in the forest).

Next were the 6km to Passo Sella, at 2244m, 6km, and I was not on top shape for those 444m of ascent. I really got cold on the descent and it takes me ages to get my blood warm again, and I think I was hungry but hard to know sometimes. There were cafes around but everywhere was packed full of people and I thought at least if I move I don't get cold.

Slowly slowly we reached the last few bends before the pass, and again stopped for pictures and to put on clothes and for a bar. The views from there were probably the best but it was a narrow one and the wind was blowing so we didn't waste much time and started next 6km descent to Bivio Passo Pordoi, at 1818m.

There we saw the first ambulance... hopefully it was not a bad one (we saw 3 in total).

The bivio was packed full of people but we found a nice spot on the grass by the side of the road. We thought we would stop for a bite there but there was nothing, which was good as we only had 6km to Passo Pordoi, at 2239m and I still had good legs so we thought we should just push on to Arabba and get food there.

It was only 620m of elevation and we could hardly believe that we were already at the last pass of the day. At 12.30pm we reached the Pass and the feeling of satisfaction and joy were truly overwhelming. We knew we still had a tricky descent with 33 hairpin bends, but we also knew the most was done and how well did it go!

We got ready for the last descent (which we will climb tomorrow so I thought why bother taking pictures with all this mess, pity that tomorrow it will rain boooo). I remember telling Paul "I hope we will spot out hotel in time" as is 1 km up from the centre and I really didn't want to be the salmon there, and he said "don't worry sure we can't miss it, I'll go in front there and will show you". Then we approached the hotel, which I could see from 2 bends up, and also saw that Paul kept going down while me I turned left... I waited for him for a good 5 or 10 min until I saw him pushing the bike up the stairs and couldn't stop laughing (woman, follow me! hahaha). We got back at 1.30pm while I thought we would be here at 4.30pm!!

Back to the hotel we parked the bikes, me I was still freezing so I went for a 5 min hot scolding shower, then we shared the cheese bocadillo from Cortina which went down great, recovery drink, washed the clothes and we then went down the the centre to enjoy the party atmosphere in town, even if we were already in civilian clothes. It was past 3pm and we didn't feel like eating heavy so we got to the shop for some treats and now here we are chilling out and recovering, and planning for tomorrow as the life of the cyclo tramps is always on the go.

The road reopened at 3.30pm, and with it we could hear the cars and motorbikes again, and just realised how pleasant, liberating and relaxing it was to live a few hours without it. How would it be like to always live without traffic noise pollution? Is it so hard to even think that we could make this happen if only we wished??

It was a great day and we both loved it, but the reality is that tomorrow we will be back to normal life and to share the road with thousands of cars and motorbikes...but for now we are living the dream, it was one of the most beautiful cycling day of our lives!

Number of participants: 18,000!!!!! (figure from the organisers)

Ps. Thorhildur and Gunvald were by far the filthiest bikes, all the others were spotlessly clean, and also the only ones with mudguards (thank goodness it didn't rain), and we overtook a few guys on Pinarello Dogma bikes, which made Paul very happy.

Day 8 - Arabba to San Martino di Castrozza - 80km and 1700m up
Sunday 8 June

I don't even know where to start today, it felt like we lived 5 days in one, and so glad we are taking a day off tomorrow (may have been better if it was somewhere more lively and charming but ho well...)

We slept very well and had another amazing breakfast, we have been so spoilt at the Hotel Garni Serena, really recommend! By 8am we were ready and really couldn't be bothered at the idea of climbing up to Passo Pordoi again, but then if you wanted the bicycle then...

The forecast were ambiguous and the sky grey, but we knew we would get sweaty soon and left in t-shirt, not before changing my gear from really hard (from the descent the day before) to granny gear. Another advantage of the hotel was that it was 1km up the village, which made the climb to the top 9km instead of 10!

Paul doesn't like to start climbing from still and didn't have a great time, me I don't mind and really enjoyed it. It was quiet, with a few more cyclists around, plenty of meadows with wild flowers, fresh morning air and the clouds were lifting as we climbed, so we could actually see the mountains around.

In 1h we were on the top and stopped for a few pictures and to put on clothes. We started the descent and after 6km we got to the junction we were the day before and stopped there to put on leg warmers and all we could find as the descent was freezing, like I was shaking so bad that at times I couldn't control the bike (tip, if you calm down and breath deeply it does help).

From there it was a few km to Canazei (and I saw a hare crossing the road like mad!) and the traffic of cars and motorbikes got crazy, thank goodness we were out of that road soon!

Down in Canazei the sky was still dark and we went to a cafe to warm up, it was a bit of a messy place and they run out of croissants but it did the job.

The 28km cycling path down the valley to Predazzo was sent from the sky. We avoided the stress of the main road and it was so pleasant to roll down by the river with sunshine finally and good views,and it was not even that busy! We stopped to eat the bread roll we got from breakfast, finally I took off all the layers and we enjoyed strolling down the valley, up to Moena where it became a rollercoaster but the centre was so nice and sunny that we can forgive that! It was 11am and we pushed on the next 8km to Predazzo, thinking we would get a nice place to eat there, but it turned out to be a bit of a mission as there were just a couple of bars one more dodgy than the other, so we ended up at the 4 stars hotel La Ancora, penne with tomato sauce and coke = €40.

By then it was hot, like Paul had to put on the suncream and we were melting! At the thought of climbing 20km to Passo Rolle we both wanted to throw up, but then we didn't have any choice, and no matter how slow we were, as long as we moved forward it was all good.

Paul also found out a gravel path that would go up by the river and would avoid the main road. At 1 pm we set off , got on the track and the start of it was idyllic, but then we had a few snappy climbs and had to push the bikes up. Then there was a suspension bridge that was quite cool, and occasionally we would get a glimpse of the snowy mountains we were heading to. Quite something but we were both so done that nothing was really that exciting anymore... Finally we reached the top of the gravel climb and we started going down towards Lago di Paneveggio, where we decided to get back on the road. There was a longer gravel loop of the scenic kind that we could have taken to get to the Passo, but by then we were really spent, the sky was back to cloudy = no views, and it was also 3pm, and the cold wind was blowing, head wind for a change, so 9km to the top and 500m up it was.

The first 4km were of the flattish kind and the traffic was not too bad, then it was death...in between the6.5% average gradient, the headwind, and the bloody endless stream of motorbikes coming both ways and driving like dicks it was a nightmare.

Eventually the top arrived and it was one of the long flattish overbuilt kind. The mountains around were stunning but covered by clouds in places, and with all the mess up there we just dressed up and started the 10km descent to destination.

We reached out hotel at 4pm glad to be there and in 1 piece. The check in was a bit of a comedy as someone called asking what's the weather was like in June...

Finally we got to the room, which is not as good as the one from last night, a bit dark and sad, which put me in even a worse mood, but after a prosecco welcome aperitivo and a nice dinner life is good again. No idea what we will do tomorrow as this village is the kind of skiing one dead in summer, but I'm sure we will come up with a plan. Can we just have sunshine for a day???

Monday 9 June - OFF!!!
Haidi path -15km and 500m up

What a difference the sun makes. There was haze but we woke up with a blues sky, and after a nice breakfast we went down to town (dead empty) and finally saw the stunning mountain background, truly spectacular!

We were taking it easy and started with a stroll in town to check out the food situation. We started with the bakery, not even Cuba had so little food, literally 4 pieces of bread to sell. My dreams of pizzette and pastries evaporated on the spot. We then went to the Conad, which was better but really we couldn't find anything that was portable. We went for 2 rolls and separated cheese slices (they wouldn't make sandwiches), apples, some kind of trail mix, and a bar, which I thought was a cereal bar but it was a chocolate bar so it melted soon.

Packed up we went to the place where all the paths started, still unsure where we would go. We couldn't find a map with trails, but there was a nice park with potential as chilling out area for the return. We started following the path up to Malga Ces, which was pretty indeed in the forest and we even spotted 2 woodpeckers. In 1h we reached the malga, it was early so we kept going on the path up to Punta Ces, and the views on the opposite mountains got better and better. When we reached 2000m we stopped at a panoramic bench for a break and to admire the views, and then we got on the track to Malga Cigolera, which was more of a ski place now closed, we took advantage of the benches and had our lunch there.

The clouds were gathering and without sun it got chilly so we started the decent on the Path Haidi, and then closed the loop where we started.

It was 2pm, still cloudy but the nice sun lounge benches were calling us, so we laid down and the sun finally arrived. It was a pleasure to spend 2 hours there and suck up all the sun we haven't seen in a week, maybe too much as we are now both burnt...

Tomorrow is time to get on the move again, it seems that the thunders are now giving way to the African heath...live and see!

Day 9 - San Martino di Castrozza to Borgo Valsugana - 67km and 1800m up
Tuesday 10 June

The first news when I woke up was that the world fertility rate is declining. I knew it would be a great day! It was also sunny outside and was supposed to be so all day, and it was pretty much our farewell to the mountains with the last 2 passes above 2000m.

We had a nice breakfast, probably the last one of the trip, and stole 2 rolls which would have been our lunch (the village bakery and shop were both hopeless).

At 8.20am we said goodbye to the chatty guy of the hotel and stared our big day. The first km was to get out of town, then we started the 7km gravel climb in the shade of the forest, at 7.6% average gradient to gain 500m. We soon started pushing the bikes up, with 2 lorries coming down who knows where from.

The going was slow but the morale high, and in 1h we were at the top at the Malga Tognola, with beautiful views of the mountains we knew so well.

We started the descent, and it was a 3km endless single track down the other valley. It was so steep and slow that it took us more than 1h to get to the point where we joined the gravel road. Also that one was as slow as hell as it was steep and rocky /loose gravel (despite the fact that so far we met nobody ,I did tell Paul to go super slowly as we could have met cyclists, people and lorries. It turns out we did meet, in order, 2 cyclists, a couple with a child and 2 lorries coming up. I'm a witch!!).

We then got on the few km left on tarmac until we reached the cute tiny village of Caoria at 11.20am, 3h to cover 20km... I did the maths and figured it could take us 6 more h to reach destination from there I was in no messing around mode.

Thankfully the village coop was there and was open. We didn't hold our expectations high in terms of what we would find given our experience in San Martino, but it turned out to be great. At least we could get a couple of apple pastries and 660ml bottle coke that we ate straight away, and a slice of strudel we would leave as reward for reaching top number 2.

We set off sweating buckets in the noon heat and started the climb number 2 of the day. The first 6km to Rifugio Refavai were ok, like not too steep and on a pleasant and quiet road. Then the gravel started and the gradient was much better, averaging 6.8%, but then it was also longer with 12 km in total. We took our time and managed to cycle more than we thought we would, it did remind me of the Divide times as we were mostly in woods. At 1.30pm we stopped for lunch in the shade of a tree, when the only person we met arrived... on a motorbike who stopped and asked where the road went. I pointed out that that motorised vehicles were not allowed there, and he was "well what can I do now turn back". I just hope the vigili at the bottom gave him a fine so maybe he learns how to read signs..

Anyway, from there we still had 6km climb, but the mountains started to show up and the gradient eased, we could actually cycle the last few km to the top and that felt heavenly. I'm so glad we went for it! (...not that we had other options!).

We stopped at the Passo 5 croci for a good 20 min, and after taking a few pictures we are our well deserved strudel. We got there at 2.30am, much ahead of even my more optimistic calculations!

It was windy and we put on the arm warmers, then started the 5 km gravel descent that was insanely steep, stopping here and there to give the breaks and our hands a rest. We then got on the tarmac descent,which was equally insanely steep. In total we would drop 1500m in 20km, with bits that were a true slide down.

We kind of missed a turn and ended up 6km down the valley,but thankfully we could take the perfect cycling path, mostly flat, to destination. It added 30min but really it could have been worse.

At 4.30pm we finally reached our B&B, when Paul said he had troubles with his bottom bracket. Thankfully there is a bike shop in town so we went there straight away,but the mechanic was not there so we left the bike there, went back to check in, then to the shop to get the lunch for tomorrow, then to pick up the bike (unbelievable how many people popped in the shop for a problem or another, and how many happy people they make!)

Finally sorted we got back to park the bike and then finally we went for our well deserved pizza at the most no frills pizzeria we could find. It was in the main square and only sold either slices or a huge one to share, which we did, and it went down wonder. It was lovely to be sitting outside without freezing, in a warm breeze and surrounded by youngsters and locals out for a stroll.

Finally at 9.30pm I've done all that needed to be done, and I'm really done for the day!

Tomorrow, more climbing!

Day 10 - Borgo Valsugana to Asiago - 57 km and 1300m up
Wednesday 11 June

And more climbing we had indeed. I slept like a log in the Locanda in Borgo Garnì, woke up at 6.30am thinking I really can't be bothered. Breakfast was served by what we think are the old parents of the owner, who were extremely lovely. When the old lady asked where we were headed today (probably thinking we would follow the lovely Brenta cycling path like most cyclists do there), I said "Asiago" and She replied "Ola Madona!"...that gave me a glimpse of what was to come!

At 8am we set off and left this lovely and lively village, really a pity we didn't spend more time there. We got back in the beautiful cycling path that run parallel to the Brenta River for a good 10km, which was the best start of the day.

Then we got on the small road on the other side of the river, we looked up and it was a cliff... We We were on the Strada della Barricata, we knew it would be 14km of relentless climb at an average of 8% gradient and we faced it stoically (I did, Paul was moaning all the first 5km until he got his ass kicked).

Me I loved that climb, I mean, my legs and general physical shape were done, but I knew it was our last big climb, the tiny road was lovely, in the shade of the trees and so quiet, the views were getting better and better as we climbed, and it was built during the war by soldiers, which in itself deserved respect. I was just taking it easy and savouring every stride, I'll be dreaming about this in the long winter!

We were basically zig zagging up the cliff, then suddenly we emerged in a huge meadow and stopped for a break. We kept going and since we were making good timing we stopped at the Rifugio Barricata for a cold drink.

It was a then a short climb to the top, where we stopped at the huge Eagle wood statue that overlooks the Brenta valley, the biggest in Europe. It was truly spectacular and we spent a good while there. A couple of gravel cyclists arrived and we had a good chat there.

 

We were now in the plateau, with so many malgas and cows and green meadows. We kept going for another 10km in minor roads and at 12.30pm I started to bonk, which called for lunch. We were hoping to find a nice bench in the shade but there was nothing around and we made do with a few logs by the road. Lunch was delicious, a pouch of grains and veggies and some lentil chips, exactly what I needed to face the last 20 km.

We started with a long descent that took us on the main road. This was quiet deserted and very well graded, contouring the mountain and passing by small villages. We stopped at one called Gala which was also deserted, but the church really looked impressive. It was 4km to destination and suddenly the traffic picked up (must have been post lunch back to business) and god they all drove so badly!

We arrived in Asiago at 2pm and had 1h to kill for our check in, which we spent sitting at the main square (pretty indeed) and catching up with some planning. Really can't believe we have been on the go for more than a week, and I struggle to put it all in my head.

The check in to Villa Iris lasted 30min, like the lady explained really everything into details 3 times and didn't want to go, she even texted me at 10pm to let me know there were duvets in the wardrobe...

First job was the washing, really urgent, like don't come close to us, then we washed ourselves. While the washing was on we went to the tourism info office where the girl was extremely helpful and sorted our plans for tomorrow. An ice-cream was also a must reward for the climb (it's now hot, the African heat indeed arrived).

We then walked 20min to the store for food (huge bowl of salad and fruit salad finally!). The apart is so nice and there is a big terrace looking over green fields. The evening scene from here was bucolic, with birds singing and black birds feeding their just fledged chicks. Finally there was something watchable on the telly, the Martian, but it was half way through at 11.15pm and I just want to sleep!

Thursday 12 June - Asiago
18k cycle along Pista ciclabile Trenino di Asiago and 6km along the Fronte di Vaia historic path.

We are kind of done and didn't feel the need to push ourselves today. Originally we were planning the South loop of the bike packing Asiago loop, but really,who can be bothered?

Instead we had a leisurely start of the day, and at 9am we got on the 9km cycling path to Cesuna (they all really drive like so badly here, so glad we were out of the road!). The path was nice enough but at times it felt more of a MTB trail. If this was a cycling path we wondered what the gravel tracks were like...

It only took us 30min to get to the start of the walk, which took us to Monte Lemerle and had stations explaining what happened both in the World War 1 and the Vaia storm in 2018, both devastating to the environment.

It was a lovely walk in the wood, we met nobody apart from Mrs Fox, and had to spend a good 10 min sitting in the wood listening to the birds singing and the trees dancing in the breeze. There were no other sounds. How frequently do we have the opportunity to just listen to nature nowadays?

Back to the bikes we retraced our steps and stopped at the store to get lunch and dinner (did I say that they all drive so badly here??).

In the afternoon we visited the Sacrario Milirare di Asiago, so imposing up the hill just outside Asiago, and quite a sobering reminder how stupid and doomed to self extinction the human species is. The views from there were so nice that we stopped a good while just to look around and to be.

Back to the flat we had a bit of an organisational couple of hours. We realised that cycling to Chioggia and then get 3 ferries to Mestre wouldn't be that enjoyable, so we opted to cycle from Padova straight to Mestre, pack the bikes and use up Sunday to visit Chioggia. That must really have stressed me out, as, as soon as we did all the arrangements, I felt so tired like the release of all the stress was gone and I could finally let go and relax. I had a great night sleep.

Day 11 - Asiago to Padova - 88km and 223m up
Friday 13 June

Bye bye mountains, the hard bit of this trip is now done! Can't believe just one week ago today we were cycling to Arabba, it feels like a life ago!

We were both a bit anxious at the idea of cycling on a busy road out of he plateau, so we left "early" at 7.30am, starting with my back tyre being flat so first thing was to stop outside the Duomo to pump it up (thankfully it stayed pumped all day).

We then got on the road and started with a 3km climb... really can't be bothered! The first 10km were up in the plateau and confirmed that up there they all drive really badly. Then finally the descent started, but it was a well graded one, the traffic was not too heavy, and at some stage we could see the plain below despite the haze. I felt we finally reached Italy as everyone and everywhere were quite chilled out and the drivers more considerate.

At km 34 we reached the town of Marostica and we saw a bakery/ café by the entrance of the walls and stopped there for the best croissant of all the trip.

We were trying to waste time as the check in was at 2pm and we only had 50km flat left. It was hot already and it would just get hotter (30+ degrees), so we stopped several time to drink in the shade.

We were technically following the Brenta cycleway, that exists more on the map than in reality, at least the first 20km. It was a bit of a mix of MTB rocky single paths, quiet roads and gravel paths, sometimes by the Brenta (pretty indeed) and something among fields, forests and villages. We were both very chilled out, no need to push, and enjoyed it a lot, but as the day progressed it really became draining hot. At 11am we stopped to snack on the mini cheese bocadillos that we prepared with the leftovers of dinner and breakfast. By noon we were melting and stopped at a restaurant to get a cold drink.

By 1pm I was the shade of myself, it was only 8km to destination when this nice restaurant appeared from nowhere. We stopped there and got a good 1 h break, and I ate a huge salad, I really needed that!

We pushed on for the final bit and the car drivers were so polite, they even stopped to let us pass at the crossings!

Finally we reached our very nice hotel at 2.30pm and enjoyed a good 2 hours of admin and chilling out, waiting for the worse of the heat to pass to go and explore town.

At 4.30pm we finally got the courage to go out and see town, which turned out to be above all my expectations, I should have come here to study!!!

We started with an ice cream/ granita siciliana in a big square, which was empty then but by evening it was all full of people eating and drinking.

The first thing that stroke us both is how weird everyone looks in this part of town, like, not even intentionally, they were all genuinely unique in their own way, even elder people! We could have spent hours seeing the world pass by, but off we went strolling along the centre, the Palazzo Della Ragione which was truly a gem, and all the buildings, churches and streets were equally unique. It was just really nice to suck in all these good vibes.

At 7pm we went for a pizza in a nice restaurant with a big inner yard and I got really drunk just with a pint of beer. This is the life! The walk back to the Hotel Patavium (great place to stay) was also pleasant and finally in the evening shade we were not melting anymore. I slept very well.

 

Day 12 - Padova to...home
Saturday 14 June

It was supposed to be a 35km flat to go to Marghera where we were meant to pack the bikes. We took it easy, and at 9am we went to get the bikes in the garage. The bikes were not there. Devastation is an euphemism, it just doesn't make any sense. We have always been careful, and by paying €160 for an hotel we thought we would get safety too but no. It's useless to think of all the “if. The bikes are gone and some bastard is now riding them. Is there a silver lining? Have we learnt anything? No. It just hurts deeply.

Gunvald, Thorhidur, thanks for the epic days you gave us. You will never be forgotten.