Alta Via 1 Valle d'Aosta

 

We missed the mountains, and mountains is what we got!

We finally arrived in Pont San Martin after spending a day of wondering around in Bergamo (Città Alta, hot hot hot = ice cream!) and Torino (Libreria la Montagna to get the maps for the route and Piazza San Carlo), then today on train and bus to get to the starting point. It's raining. It should kind of improve tomorrow, maybe Monday. We just need to accept that we are at the mercy of the weather. I called the Rifugi and it seems we should be able to walk there. I wonder what we are doing here...next hiking trip will be in August I swear, no more snow ice and shitting myself!!

Pont San Martin to Rifugio Barma- 22km, 2814m up, 1106 m down
Sunday 7 July

 
Left the beautiful hotel at 8am after a very abundant breakfast. All charged up we started climbing straight away, steep and kind of messed up passing through little hamlets. After the hamlet of Perloz the path took us down a steep rocky path to a bridge, after which we climbed again to Etoil de Berger (1400m) that we reached at 11am.

Stretching makes all the difference

Saying goodbye to Pont Sant Martin

At the bottom of the useless descent, ready to climb again

No idea where we were here

or here

nor here...

Almost at the end of stage 1 of 3 of the day

We were drenched in sweat, the place was a bit sad and empty, and the owner was drinking prosecco at 11am. We got a slice of crostata (tiny...glad we didn't sleep in this hotel) and coke, and off we went again up a super steep climb among meadows filled with beautiful flowers.

Sometimes I wonder if Paul is worried that I don't eat enough...

"The plain of the witches", couldn't fit better

It was sunny and hot, until we reached the Col Portola (1900), where we were finally in mountain ground. Stunning. The clouds started to build up and we couldn't see anything, not even the Rifugio Coda until we were outside its door! We knew it was coming thanks to the barking dog...We got there at 2pm, perfect timing! As usual I was scared to death of the dog (in this case a Collie), and when he went behind us I told Paul "careful, he is attacking us from behind!".

The first of many patches of snow

The fierce dog...

We went inside for a coffee and to ask info on the route condition, there were only 2 couples sitting there. One did just a stage and when we said we were coming from Pont San Martin (2 stages of the guide book) and that we were still going on for the third one, they said "siete 2 grandi" and me "no, no, we are 2 idiots!"

We set off and it started raining. Jacket on and off we went down a steep descent with a bit of snow but all easy going. We reached the bottom where there were a few small lakes, got a bar and kept going in clouds. Then it kind of cleared up, we were back in the forest, then down to a lake and the finisher was a 400m climb up the most perfect of the paths, until we finally saw our Rifugio like a mirage, at 17.50pm. Such a relief and sense of achievement to have finished this huge day in a pretty decent time! And you don't even need to give your passport in the Rifugi, which was great as mine was at the bottom and I was taking everything out while having my celebratory smoke!

Apple break to find the motivation for the last climb of this 10h walking day

The (well camouflaged) Rifugio!

The Rifugio is off the grid and yet more beautiful than most hotels we have stayed! We have a private en suite room. We had enough time for a shower, stretching, wash clothes, get sorted and then time for dinner (gnocchi , polenta with cheese and some vegan pudding). I don't think we ate too much but we are all so full that we are exploding. After dinner we heard thunders, and then the rain and hail came down in buckets, what a show! The cook (a young lad), left shortly before running god knows where, hopefully he made it there safe! We also got to know 2 couples, one from Verona and the other Emilia Romagna. I bet tonight we both sleep well!

Our room, can't believe we were in a Rifugio at 2060m

Gnocchi

Polenta with Toma cheese

Rifugio Barma to Gaby - 22km, 1200m up, 2100m down
Monday 8 July

 
What a weird and endless day. Despite being in the best refuge ever I slept like shit. Being above 2000m my heartbeat was going fast, I kept waking up and just really waited for the day to start.

Finally it was time to get moving. We packed, ate a decent breakfast, and reluctantly at 7.45am we said goodbye to this magic place.

We knew we had a long day ahead but I didn't realise how slow and difficult it would be (and that that we didn't even get to the Rifugio Rivetti!!). It was chilly but ok and as soon as we started climbing to the Colle della Marmontana (2348m) the fleece went off. Absolutely not a soul around, but we saw our first marmot.

Colle della Marmontana, the first of the day

Up to there it was ok then we started the descent with random patches of snow, and rocks, and melting streams, the sign posting kind of got lost like us and we started to slow the pace. The Cicero guide is really not right, the profile is useless and also the distances. 

After we reached the bottom we started a super steep ascent to Crenna Dou Leia (2312m). I'm glad the clouds were low and couldn't see a thing as it was as steep as ever and sometimes it's better not to see where you are.

The top was a kind of door to the other side, very steep at first and then the snow patches started. Somehow we navigated them, but once we went off track and had to improvise a way to rejoin the path further down. I love this kind of problem solving but Paul not as much... when we reached the bottom at noon, with not even 10km done, we stopped for a bar before climbing the last Col to 2184m, Colle della Vecchia. The place was packed full of snow probably hiding the path marks, so we started going down the wrong side but Paul's watch set us back on track on a proper well kept path. This wouldn't last long as an endless descent started shortly after, then another ascent in the forest, past a bridge package full of snow, until finally we reached La Gruba hotel at 3pm.

Crenna du Leia, 2311m - second pass of the day

A descent I'd have gladly lived without

Colle della Vecchia - we were about to keep going that direction on the wrong path

From then on the comedy started. We knew we could have walked the 3h up the refugio (it actually took us 2 the day after), but really, what for? It was cloudy high up (= no views), we were tired, we had no food and really no point in keep going. Unfortunately the hotel La Gruba was full (they already put 2 people sleeping in the sauna) but the lady was super nice and helped us find an hotel in Gaby, 500m down the valley... We went for it, and celebrated with a slice of cake and torroncino. 

When I went to pay I met 2 British women, one with a cast in her arm. It turns out she fell on the snow in the bit with the bridge we passed before and broke her elbow, which was actually lucky as some ice stopped her or she would have ended up down the river. The lady of the hotel showed me the pictures of the snow on Friday and it was a wall twice mu height! And that was 7 days ago!!! She proudly said it was their ever first night evacuation by helocpter...

With that in mind we walked down the road to Gaby, got there at almost 5pm, stopped at the shop to ask if they made sandwiches for the day after, then went to check in, but the hotel was locked and nobody answered. So I thought maybe I booked somewhere else, and went to the hotel Moderno asking if I called them, but I didn't. As we walked back the lady was there and checked us in, what it looks like a porno room (bath in the middle of the room, weird lights etc..) there are also rooms with sauna and round bed the lady up in Gruba proudly told me...

Anyway, we got ourselves sorted, stretched (my poor quads!!!), then went to the store to book the panini. Apparently they can't cut tomatoes as it's illegal in a shop but because we'll collect them early maybe he manages without being caught...you must love Italy! We booked a taxi for tomorrow to take us up to Niel (fuck me if I walk back up there!!) Then for dinner to the hotel Moderno which was actually delicious. We asked for the pizza as for the menu but on Monday there was no pizza as the sign was not out...and being vegetarians it took a bit of negotiations but I got tagliatelle ai funghi and salad, so far the best meal ever! The man also asked me if I found the right hotel... Now it's 9.20pm, my shoes and socks are still wet, I feel I lived 3 days in one and can't wait to climb more tomorrow! (Ps. So glad I'm not in a Rifugio at 2200 m in clouds and freezing cold!)

Gaby to Grassoney Saint Jean, 19km, 1000m up and 1200 down
Tuesday 9 July

 
We had the best breakfast with the mum of the lady making all of it (cakes of any kind, jam etc) feed the pig style. Then we went to get the sandwiches (he did put the tomatoes!!). The taxi amazingly arrived in time and at 8.45am we were in Niel exactly at the crisis point of the day before. It was sunny and warm and we were keen to keep going. The path was well made and steep, like very steep. In 2h we got to the Colle Malogna Grande 2354m, at the sign saying 15 min to Rifugio Rivetti. We could have made it the day before, but would got no views, and really, what for? Plus, straigh after we got a few steep traverses on snow which would have been very tricky in the morning hard snow...thank you Baby Seal!

Engaging in conversation while staffing my face with cakes

Lunch packed

Back in Niel / Gruba

Down at that lake we saw mama and papa frogs with the babies...

From there it was an hour to the other pass Lazouney, 2387m, with long bits of patches of snow. It was not too bad but Paul used his mini crampons just in case. At the other pass things changed completely, it was sooo cool, all white with snow and not steep, so it was a pleasure to walk there. We met the young couple who was in the Rifugio Barma with us 2 nights before. They got the shortcut as the lady in La Gruba told them there was too much snow (but what she told us is that it was fine...we must look like bad asses). From them we found out that the lady who broke her elbow was 70, and she was there as she came back to see where she fell. Apparently they partied hard at the Rifugio Barma, woke up late, left late which is why she got at the falling place at 9pm...so rock and roll, I really hope I'll be like that if I'll ever be 70!

From there it was pretty much all descent, passing through beautiful meadows, we stopped for lunch and the sandwich was the best ever!

Then there was the steep never ending descent in the forest until we got to the village of Staina where there was a bar. We stopped for a cold drink as we were melting in the afternoon heat, and there was the couple from Verona (they were those who slept in the sauna, and cancelled their booking in the hotel we ended up staying!). We had a nice chat and then walked the few km to Grassoney. We checked in and the room is massive (on 2 floors) but very unfunctional. We went to the tourist information office, got some food, got back then went for our first pizza (I want veggies!!). Somehow it's 10pm, we haven't stopped, we still don't know what we will do tomorrow (day "off"!!) and don't even care!

At the Col, pictures don't make it justice

Lunch spot

Still trying to keep my shoes clean

Grassoney "day off" - Rifugio Oreste, 13km, 400m up and 800m down
Wednesday 10 July

 
I slept like a log and woke up at 7.30am. The lady at the reception was super creepy, we paid €15 each for breakfast and had to ask for everything (milk, butter, yogurt...) but the cakes were plenty and good! We definitely had it worth the money and stuffed ourselves like pigs again. The legs were super stiff and we spent quite a long time stretching, after which they kind of responded. We took it easy and left at 9.30am to get the bus to Staffal, which was 10min late but all very civilised.

We got off, looked at the map and given the Monte Rosa and all the high picks were all covered in clouds we figured it made more sense to get the cable car to Gabiet and from there walk to Rifugio Oreste (the only totally vegan Rifugio!), and then follow the number 4 down to Grassoney at Trinite.

There were not many people around but we saw many marmots (including mama with the baby), a very athletic stoats hopping/ flying from rock to rock while mama bird was in alarm call... The scenery was magnificent, alpine meadows packed with flowers, melting snow feeding rivers from every side, and when we got to the Rifugio it just felt like heaven.

Me in the morning

The sign says "Rifugio Vegano", times are changing!! (...slowly)

We spoilt ourselves with a very good vegan cappuccino, then started the descent to a dam that was empty as they are doing maintenance work. We had our sandwich and then kept going down. Just before the steep descent started (and I really mean steep!) there were a couple of chamois wondering around. It was really steep to start off and care was needed, but eventually we reached the cows field (one of which tried to charge us...), there was then a big river to cross and no bridge = shoes off. For me at least as Paul decided it was worth washing his shoes and socks... 

From there we were in the forest and it was a pleasant walk down to the village. Somehow we were expecting a finisher surprise but for once it didn't arrive. We got back on the 4pm bus, went to the shop (we have dinner in the room tonight as we can't find anywhere that serves something vegetarian which is not pizza...) and then back to the hotel to finally chill out and plan a bit. It's the first day that we are not ruined, I declare it success!

Champelou, 17km, 1442m up and 1249m down
Thursday 11 July

 
Sunshine!!! We woke up and finally saw the Monte Rosa! We both slept badly probably because we were a bit worried about the pass, it turns out for no reason at all.

We had an abundant breakfast and Paul got plenty of choices for his birthday cake. At 8.30am we started walking up the village and followed the footpath by the road for 3km. Then the endless and steep climb started. It took us 3h to get to Col Pinter, and for the first time we saw people on the trail, like loads of them! It must have been the sun... We also met the son of the lady from the bar in Staine who at the time was kind enough to give us information on the conditions of the paths. Really nice lad and a human machine, he was powering up to some high pick.

Leaving Grassoney behind

At noon we reached the col, and it was the best panorama ever, we could just see the Matterhorn and the Mont Blanc in the horizon... we'll get there! The other good news is that it was not steep or airy at all, there was a lot of snow but all very easy looking. The amount of people coming up was insane, we also met a Finnish father and young son, can't believe it's so popular! We stopped to take in the views and ate a few biscuits, and the human machine was turning back due to the snow. It turns out he lives in Trentino but was on holiday visiting his family...reminds me of anyone??

 

The descent in the snow was very cool, then we reached the grass and from there it was a very steep and roped bit down to a meadow of flowers where we stopped for our sandwich, the best ever with melting cheese mmmhhh

Birthday sandwich

Followed by birthday snooze

 

We kept going down to Creataz, one of the highest villages permanently inhabited in Europe at just above 2000m. We were melting and feasted at the fountain, then we found a nice bench in the shade of a tree to eat our apple. From there it was a steep descent to destination in the shade of the forest. We checked in the hotel which is kind of falling apart but at least there is a balcony and all our stinky clothes are washed and dried. And now, dinner!

Valtournenche (by bus)
Friday 12 July

 
The sky decided for us. The forecasts have been consistent over the last few days and predicted heavy rain and thunders. At the end it was not as bad as the heavy rain stopped at 10am and didn't start again until 5pm, but then we had 5 days of walking in the legs, and we didn't want to risk going up to 2800m in wet stones and unstable weather...we wouldn't have seen much anyway!

Instead we took it super easy, had the first leasury breakfast, I spent 1h writing up a complaint to ScotRail, then went to wait for the 10.30am bus, which arrived just before 11am, even if it started 2 villages before... We were there with a group of kids (which reminds me thank goodness I have no children!) and 4 mountaineers whose plans also got diverted by the weather.

We then got off at Verres, in the saddest bus station ever. A lady missed her connection to Milan and who knows where she is now. The bus to Chatillon arrived 10min late too, then we took advantage of the 30min wait for the final bus, which was also late, to get food at the Conad down the road. Thank goodness as it turns out there is not much in Valtournenche...

We checked in the hotel Bijou, which I guess it's ok, but our balcony is the emergency stair exit. We then spent the day chilling out and checking out the next stages... it's going to be long and hard!

My notes with all the bus timetables, who need Internet??

Day off - Cervinia to Rifugio Teodula (3328m) - 18km 1348m up
Saturday 13 July

 
The sun was shining again, and we thought the best way to spend the day was to walk up as high as possible to get the views we couldn't get last year.

There was a 7.39am or 10am bus, so we asked for an early breakfast and went to the bus stop thinking we would have to wait ages in the freezing air (9 degrees). Our faces of amazement at seeing the bus turn up at the right time was priceless. The bus was full of workers, and the driver a true rally driver. In 20min we reached Cervinia and started walking just to get warm.

We got on path 16 to Plan de Maison at 2500m, very steep which was great so we warmed up! From there it was all a steep track road to the Rifugio Teodulo (3317m), with bits of ice on the highest part. We reached it at 11am. The views were amazing, 360 degrees of mountains and picks from every direction, and the Matterhorn guarding them all. It was freezing cold, I put on all my layers and cursed myself at not bringing the gloves! I just found out that I've done this same walk aged 6, but have no memory of this.

The Rifugio was open and we went inside for a coffee to warm us up. It was very nice inside but I was very comfortable with all my layers.

Reluctantly we started the walk back, the ice had already melted and I was dreaming of reaching the bottom to warm up. In less than 1h we were down at the Plan de Maison and stopped to share our huge sandwich. We could have gone on the n.65 but we were short of water and the bar wouldn't fill it in, and no fountain either... We took path 14 for the descent, a new one and the best of them all! The views on the Matterhorn were amazing, it was grassy with plenty of chilled out marmots, and there was not a soul around.

Eventually we got back to town and refilled the water bottle at the park by the church. It was so nice there that we sat on a bench, shared the second sandwich and shared a mini focaccia with the hundreds of sparrows (with chicks who just fledged and were still been fed by the parents) for a good half an hour. To be Saturday there were not many people around which was a pleasant surprise.

We got the 4.15pm bus back to the hotel, sorted ourselves out, went to see a band playing at the square of the mountain guides, which was a bit boring, then back here waiting for dinner at the hotel. Today we really need to charge us up with food as we have no idea what will come, and can't wait for it!

Dinner was massive, and the owner the kindest person ever. We had a starter of veggies, then soup, little boats of mushrooms, tagliatelle with tomato sauce and fruit salad for dessert. I really slept well!

Valtournenche to Rifugio Cuney, 24.6km, 2300m up, 1196 m down
Sunday 14 July

 
What a beautiful day! We ended up walking almost 10h, got plenty of surprises along the way, and the best views. We haven't seen the Mont Blanc yet but we said goodbye to the Matterhorn.

We had a very abundant breakfast at 7am, I already miss the croissants... All charged up we set off at 7.45am in the morning chill but with a blue sky. We crossed the road and stared the descent down the river and crossed the bridge. From there it was a steep ascent in the forest, we warmed up quite quickly! Half way through the climb we heard some whistling and all of a sudden a huge herd of goats and sheep stormed passed with 2 dogs and the owner who had pity of us and grabbed the big dog with a sign that it was safe to pass. More climbing and after 1h 30 min we reached the Rifugio Barmasse, 2170m, in time for yet another coffee.

Checking out the goats situation..

Safe to pass!

The girl reassured us that the path was good. Off we went and the views started to open. It was a down and up kind of path, then down to a hamlet called Cortina, where we joined a track road that we followed for too long... fortunately there was another path that took us back to ours. We could still see the Matterhorn, but it then disappeared as we reached Finestra d'Ersa at 2290m. We stopped for a few pictures and biscuits (breakfast was a long time ago, thank goodness we stuffed ourselves like pigs the day before!).

We kept going flat then down on a tiny path along the mountain, with wild flowers everywhere, truly beautiful. The path kept going along the side of the mountain, then it crossed a big river which was a bit exposed and with no way of passing it without getting our shoes soaked. We knew there was a second one coming shortly but that was an easy one, so we stopped on a big flat rock to shrink our socks, refill our bottles and just enjoy the moment.

Drying shoes stop

Always an excuse for a nap

It was then a steep climb up from there (the mantra of the trip was "steep, it is steep"), we then reached an amphitheater of rocks just before the Lac de Tsan, it was the best view ever! Mountains everywhere, rocky landscapes of any colour and shape, we were looking everywhere in awe. At 1pm we stopped for our sandwich in a sheltered corner and enjoyed it immensely.

From there it was a short push to the Fenetre de Tsan, (2738m), which was true heaven, honest everywhere we looked it was stunning. It was 2pm and we could see the rest of the high path at a distance. It looked a bit sketchy in places so we decided to follow the longer alternative route and go down to Rifugio Magiá, at 2000m. The first bit was steep in loose scree and demanded concentration. The good news is that we basically dropped all the elevation in that bit, then we were in the valley and in no time we reached the Rifugio, which was full of people (we haven't met many all day..). The advantages of the alternative route were: get rid of rubbish; eat cake and drink lemon soda and even wash my armpits with soap!!!

We stayed there a good 30 min and recharged we set off for the finisher: a path which would make us climb 600m in just a couple of km. The first bit was in the forest and we got eaten by mosquitos, then we emerged in some higher meadow and could see the Alta Via path high up. We stopped half way through to take in the breathtaking views and then the final push up to heaven. We were both tired but I really enjoyed the walk in the late afternoon light, and the arrival was spectacular!

The valley we came down from before

Rejoining the Alta Via 1

By the Rifugio there is a Santuario...how?? why??

We did some stretching, then checked in and it was better than I thought. We knew it was basic but still managed to get a hot shower (5 min max), there was also a French couple who was a pain in the ass, and another English (he spoke Italian like a native, lived in Mallorca, while she lived in France, no idea how they got together) with Tony, a rescue Spanish dog of the cutest kind. I'm so glad they were too sharing dinner and stories. They were struggling with the walking and got there super late, I wonder if they are still together!

The lady running the Rifugio was a bit weird, but you have to, to be able to be up there alone with no facilities whatsoever. It was nice chatting to her and she prepared a lovely meal of soup, polenta with mushrooms and chocolate mousse. We were sharing the dorm with the French couple while the others were somewhere else because they had the dog, possibly by the sanctuary.

I thought I'd freeze but I was actually hot all night and slept decently.

 

Rifugio Cuney to Re -, 21km, 959m up and 1875m down
Monday 15 July

 
Sometimes you laugh sometimes you cry. The day started great with the breathtaking morning views from the Rifugio, and somehow it slowly degenerated to its lowest point...

By 6.30am we were up and stretching outside the Rifugio with the best views ever. Breakfast was at 7.30am and was basic but nice, then we got sorted and at 8am we were on the go. I couldn't take my eyes off the landscape, everywhere I looked it was a treat to the eyes. There were also marmots everywhere in contemplation mode.

Good morning sunshine!

I may start to like morning stretching

Not the only ones around contemplating the views

 

The start was easy up to Col de Chaleby, 2683m, where we said goodbye to the Matterhorn who was still showing its horn for the very last time.

From there we could see the next col and it looked ok, hardly did we know it had a few surprises up its sleeve. First a patch of snow on a steep angled traverse. Time for the mini crampons, which didn't really help but from below I managed to climb up and cut steps. I really hope they helped the other couples too. Then more snow patches, and looking up I could see a wall of 2 meters of snow on the top. The joy when we reached Col de Vesdona, 2788m, and it was all snow free, and the other side was mostly clear too! The views from there were magnificent, finally we spotted the Mont Blanc, our final destination! There was also an ibex but we think he was sick and just waiting to die...quite sad really, I guess we'll all end up like that but in a less scenic place.

We ate a few biscuits and got ready for the long and tricky descent, kind of a jump the obstacle kind. First it was steep with scree which made for a slow and careful going, then snow patches but at least they were not steep. Then we entered the avalanche bit which was a mess but doable. Then the bit by the river which got washed out badly by the recent storm, which again made the going slow and careful (Paul got his feet soaked again...). Then the cows running everywhere, passed them it was definitely lunch time, the cheese and tomato sandwich prepared by the lady of the Rifugio, gnammy!

Because sometimes it's faster to go down with your ass, even in scree!

From there it was an endless descent in the forest by the river until we got to the junction of the bridge that was destroyed by the flood, so we followed the alternative route down the valley until we reached a tarmac road and the bus stop (the official route was closed due to a big rock blocking it). We were meant to climb another col but no bloody way! It was also hot and we were quite ruined so we opted for the bus (we knew it would pass at 2.45pm and kind of rushed to get there in time). The driver was a bit of a dick, strange as all the others have been super friendly. We got off 10min later down the valley in Valpallino, I thought my village was shit but gosh this was much worse. At least there was a bar and we got a lemonade, and bought a couple of apples at the grocery shop (the one with no stuff to sell).

At 4pm we started walking on a mule track up the other valley in sunshine, it was steep and we were sweating buckets. Eventually we reached Ollemant, another dead village with nothing in it, and after another km our destination: Hotel Mont Gele' in Rey. Unless you are really desperate don't even think of stopping here, even Cuba was better!!

The owner is the creepiest ever, he hasn't smiled once since we arrived. The room is dump and our clothes will never dry here. Dinner (no other place to eat around, not even a shop) was inedible, the starter was a joke (they must think they are Michelin cook and put a 10 calories pastiche of some sort which tasted of nothing), then pasta with tomato sauce, you may think how you can't get that wrong but trust me you can. The second was some disgusting local dish of some kind of bread and cheese cake, probably reheated as Paul was sick the day after, thankfully there were peas... This is the first time I was glad the portions were small. My guts are really not happy and I'm scared to see breakfast.

At least I'm dead tired and I bet I'll sleep well, tomorrow we are out of here.

 

Rey to Saint Rhamy en Bosses - 23km, 1748m up, 1329m down

Tuesday 16 July

I slept well but woke up at 5.30am, thinking the room was less stinky and dump that I remembered...it turns out I left the window open, no wonder the river sounded loud! As expected breakfast was as shit and poor as expected, the only variant was the big group of 12 people there coming from who knows where. The sandwich was also a joke (€6 for 2 slices of sliced bread...). Super pissed off we set off at 8.15am in the morning rain, which the forecasts said should have ended 1h before..it did end a bit later but the clouds lasted.

We got back on the n.1 and started climbing in the forest on a decent path. After a while I saw a woman ahead...it turns out it was the French couple again! No idea why they were there in front of us as they were staying in Oyance, 1 stage before. Anyway, up we went again and were glad of the clouds as it made the ascent much cooler and bearable. I think by now we are 2 climbing machines as in little more than 2h we reached the Rifugio Chapillon, 2430 m. It was quite cool there, in both senses. We stopped for a drink (Paul's stomach was playing up, we both blame the shitty food of the hotel).

First sign with Courmayeur in it!

As usual I asked the girl of the Rifugio about the conditions of the path to the col (perfect she said), and the Col de Malatra' for the next day - impassable she said, too much snow. That kind of made the decision for us as we were already wondering if it would have been too much in terms of distance and level of difficulty...

We set off again and it was a short walk to the Col de Chapillon, 2709m. There were clouds but we could still get a good view of all the giants parading in front of us, including the Mont Blanc. It was a bit of an anti climax as there was a group of school children and a guy speaking loudly on the phone, but it seems all our trips end in anticlimax!

The long descent started and it was freezing with cold wind blowing up the valley. The path was very good but endless and we reached the river crossing only at 1.20pm. By then it was sunny and hot and we found a perfect spot in the shade of a tree for our lunch. We decided then that the day after we'd get the bus to Courmayeur.

View from our lunch spot (add some fresh breeze)

We kept going on a decent path that kind of climbed up again then went flat, and then down to the first Saint Rhamy. The path was actually very pleasant to walk on as it was well graded, wide and in some shade. We kind of lost track of which valley we were and which village was which as it looks all roads going everywhere, but finally we reached Saint Rhamy 1. We were still melting and stopped for a lemon soda at the Hotel Suisse. Just at the idea of another cake I promise I throw up!

From there it was 2 km to destination, and we were so pleased to meet the man at the reception of the Hotel des Alpes as he was normal and he was smiling! I totally fell for it when he said we were in the wrong hotel and ours was 6km down the valley...as if we have not done this before!

The room is great, we can hang our clothes outside to dry, and I also have expectations for dinner... We also found an alternative path which will take us to La Salle from where we can get the bus to Courmayeur...the adventure is not over yet!

The surprise at dinner was that the French couple ended up eating at the table next to us...why was it now the British with Tony?? Dinner was nice (and expensive), we got nettles gnocchi with mushrooms, a veggies cake and crema catalana, I really slept well!

Poor Paul with the small pint...the man did like his tricks

and me I like blue torches. As well as knives, axes, swards etc

Courmayeur - 20km, 968m up, 1704m down
17 July

We made it!!!! Not via the official route but it was quite an adventure nevertheless. We had breakfast at 7.45am and stuffed ourselves as much as we could (fresh melon!)

We set off at 8.40am not quite sure where we were heading. Miraculously today we always met the right person at the right time who would point us to the right direction. We followed the n.1 for a while then got on the n. 9 (its only sign at the start of it). We started climbing in a crystal clear day, with beautiful views everywhere and the better the higher we went.

Half way through we met a guy from Milan who was spending the summer in a village nearby. It was nice to chat a bit, he took the only picture we have together, and we also spent some time on the col. Col Serena was not exactly a walk in the park. It was 2500m high with a loose steep scree bit at the top, and our last patch of snow to cross.

We stopped to take in the views and at 11.30 am we started the long descent.

The path was good and after dropping the first few hundred meters we joined a track which we followed all the way down to Palnaval, a small village with quite a few tourists. By then it was hot and we had our sandwich in the shade of a house.

The next path was not that straightforward to find but after asking a couple of ladies we got on it. It was not signed and nobody knew how to get to La Salle, where we would get the bus, and we still had to drop a good 800m with no visual.

The logic was "as long as we go down we are good". We asked a couple who was having lunch, then out of the blue a trail running was coming up and he pointed us to the right direction (stay more on the right and as long as you go down you are fine). We couldn't get much internet but eventually we started to see the main valley and road way below, and a path n23 which we decided to follow.

We finally reached the bottom and some civilization. We asked another woman (all were impressed that we were coming from Saint Rhamy and that we had no clue where we were...or going to!) who told us we were 10min away from the bus stop.

Somehow we reached a bus stop, a minute later the bus arrived and because the machine was not working we got a free ride to Courmayeur, that we reached exactly at 3pm just in time for the check in.

Washed ourselves and the clothes, celebratory ice cream and now just chilling out with the amazing satisfaction of having finished yet another amazing trip! Courmayeur is packed full of hikers on the TMB...glad we did it when we did and that we are off tomorrow!

It's over!!!

...next challenge??

 

View from the room, not bad to start the day with!

 

Final stats

• Tot walked: 200 km
• Positive elevation 14,179 m (+ 2600m from next bit)
• Negative elevation 13,907m

Lessons from the trip:

• Stretching in the morning and at the end of the day hike pays off dividends;
• If you are vegan no way you will survive;
• First half of July is too early;
• If you do go then, always call the rifugi ahead to ask for the path / snow conditions;
• Don't trust the Cicero guide, distances and profiles are fiction;
• Half board in the hotels is the way to go (unless you are crazy enough to end up in Hotel Mont Gele');
• I found this way harder than the Alta Via 2, maybe I'm getting older, but l wouldn't plan more than 20km a day.

 

To add a bit to the walk we went for 2 additional ones when visiting my family (+ 1 full day of traveling around to get there):

We got a tot of 3 buses and 3 trains

It should have been 4 buses but the last one was on strike

 

Alben - 16km, 1300m up and down
This is the one just at the feet of the village, that I would have run up and down in my youth.

 

Laghi gemelli – 22km, 1295m up and down

This one started well, but then on the descent we decided to follow what was sold as the "easy path", flat and mostly land rover track we were told...it turns out it started on a balcony path by a cliff, then when Paul said "we still need to drop a lot of elevation" we started climbing again for a good while, realised it was long as hell, then went down on a shortcut where the path disappeared, then we finally rejoined a path that was the shittiest of them all, all steep descent, and finally the last 2km on the famous track... We were both dead tired by the end of it, I guess this was the true finisher!

(the finisher was actually the news of the global IT mess up – on Friday, sorted by Saturday – and the strike of air traffic control on Sunday, from 1pm to 5pm...and our flight was at 5.15pm!)