We were supposed to be in Spain, but oh well, when it's not destiny, it's just not destiny. The weather on day 1 was ridiculously sunny and hot for Scotland, so that it felt like being somewhere in Spain anyway. It was a last minute planning and preparing the route was more like a shopping trip...we can add a bit of this, less of that, what about this new one?
I'm honestly impressed with how insanely wild Paul's mind has become...I have no clue where he found a few of these “connecting routes” but the dice was cast, the Highlands Coast to Coast route was planned, the mission was to test if it was actually possible to cycle it. The route would take us almost on a horizontal trajectory from Stonehaven to Glenelg. From there we would pop into Skye to buy our damn wedding rings, then cycle down to Tobermory and get our train back in Oban. For some reason in our heads the default direction was East to West. Then, after all was booked, we checked the forecasts which reminded us of where the wind comes from...don't know why but I'd still do it this direction.
Day 1 – Stonehaven
to Ballater– 72 km, 700m -up
12 June 2021
Day one was all known territory along the Deeside Way. We took a late train and got off at Stonehaven at 11.30am. The train journey was eventful and I managed to spot a seal, deer and curlew, not bad to start the day with!
Thanks Scotrail! Is there a prize for who can fit the bikes on those hooks? |
It was a chilly morning but as soon as we got off the train it was t-shirt and shorts weather. We have done this route a few times but never in such glorious weather, we even had to use sun cream! Everybody was chilled out and we had none of the “nasty” encounters either with car drivers or dog walkers, it should always be so hot!
First it was road, then a forestry track up a hill which always reminds us of the Great Divide. We stopped at a park at the end of this track which was packed full with people who were probably hoping to be in Ibiza, this year is really a weird one! Then instead of turning right and follow the official route, we turned left an followed another road, which was way quieter than the other one, and we even spotted a red kite at short distance being chased off by crows, what a show!
We rejoined the Deeside Way in Aboyne and got on the ex railway, 15 km of a beautiful flattish and straight path to Ballater, with loads of gorse in flower on both sides showing us the way and birds singing loud, the dream cycle!
Ballater was sunny and quiet, like no cars around, everybody was just chilling out in the parks, it honestly didn't feel like Scotland. Quick trip to the Coop and then we checked in the Ballater Hostel, and were given a “prison room” with no windows. The room was a bit claustrophobic but we really like this hostel so that we can't complaint. We were both quite exited as we knew that the proper adventure and challenge would start the day after.
The prison room... |
Day 2 – Ballater to Kingussie – 80 km, 800m up
13 June 2021
We set off with the prospect of a full day of blazing sunshine which turned out to be short-lived... We knew it would have taken us a while to cover the 6km push bike bit in the Caingorms so that we set off early in high “start of the adventure” mood. The first 13km to the Balmoral Castle were on a quite secondary and flattish road along the forest, with plenty of singing birds. We then had a wee break there to get ready for the next 14km on the main road to Braemar. It was fairly early on a Sunday morning so that we got away with it but it never feels nice to cycle on a narrow road with fast and heavy traffic... I'm glad we did it though as half-way through we spotted a Buzzard in the forest who just caught a pray possibly for her chicks, match that! It felt like we were still watching Springwatch. In Braemar we were welcomed by a group of deer with huge velvet horns chilling out in the field and checking us out, not bad to start the day hey?
In Braemar we had a little break and Coop stop to recharge energies and get our lunch. Two pastries and a drink later we were on the road again, directed to the Linn of Dee. There we had to readjust our clothing as the sky started to get dark and threatening....no sun in the Caingorms! Still strong headwind though which kind of sucks really but then it means no midges so that I think I stick with the wind.
From there is was a nice gravel road heading to the middle of the Caingorms, but even there we managed to meet a few luni like us along the way! The track then finished and it was a 6km pushing the bike. Half way through we stopped for lunch, and it did feel like we were in the middle of nowhere. Thankfully it hasn't been raining over the previous few weeks or it would have been a sea of bog.
Once on the top we could start to see trees down the valley, sign that we were approaching Glen Feshie. The last km was brutal as it all started to get rocky and occasionally we needed 2 people to carry the bikes across, but we finally made it and rejoined the track.
"Cross at your own risk" |
The
first 3km on the track were still a push the bike, but eventually it
got better and it allowed for some cycling. The views in Glen Feshie
were pretty amazing too (we met a couple who said the dot in the sky
was an eagle), a hint to what all the Caingorms could look like if
you give nature a chance. We also had to ford 3 rivers, but this time
I was ready and with my water shoes they were not a problem.
Water shoes, the ultimate bike packing piece of kit |
We then reached a tarmac narrow road which was a relief. We were following the river so that it was quite flat too. On the other side of the river we could see the track that we followed a few weeks ago when we went up a few Munros, connecting dots in your mental map always feels great!
The path we took the month before |
By this time I was mentally done. It took quite a lot of effort to get there, but it was not over yet...and bye bye tarmac! We got on a forestry track with a sign “7 miles to Kingussie”, which started with another climb. The morale was low, but then in the big picture of the day, thinking where we came from, and where we were, I felt pretty privileged and satisfied with myself. Once on the top it was all down to Kingussie, perfect time as it started to rain right when we spotted town. I felt in peace like I've never felt before, and the fact that the Duke of Gordon Hotel, where we were staying, was right in front of us when we reached town was the cherry on the cake.
This was a massive hotel with all Victorian furniture, which mainly works with tour operators (we definitely lowered the average age group there...). They were selling the old romanticised Highlands vision, like the typical one of shooting estate, the sublime and all that stuff. I suddenly realised that the Highlands are really not that, they should really start to catch up with the reality of what an impoverished landscape that vision has caused, and just move on!
Anyway, that night I slept like a log and recharged some of the energies needed for yet another day in this crazy trip.
Day 3 – Kingussie to Invergarry – 73km, 1000m up
14 June 2021
We have done this route the year before, when I was probably high on drugs as I remembered the bit through the Corrieyairack Pass to be a short challenging ascent, followed by a smooth and fast descent down to Fort Augustus. Pity I run out of drugs as the reality was veeery different!
We had a quick breakfast at the hotel and then headed off on the NCN7 to Newtonmore where we stopped to get our lunch. The plan was actually to keep the sandwich for the day after, and have lunch in Fort Augustus, but it didn't quite work out that way! We kept going to Laggan on the road and stopped at the centre of Scotland (half way through the HCC!). The headwind was fierce which I suppose allowed us to spend more time checking out this beautiful part of the world...always think pink!
From there we continued on a secondary road to the Bothy which would mark the start of the off-road section. We stopped in a sheltered place to put on the waterproof and eat a bite, but no wind means midges, oh Bonnie Scotland! At least we spotted a red squirrel in the forest (with a bleached tail!). We pushed on to the Bothy on what was the longest stretch ever, the wind was really fierce and gave us no break. It took 38km of constant pushing to reach the Bothy and by the time I got there I was exhausted, and we hadn't even started the hard bit yet!
The midge trap |
The Bothy was closed due to Covid, but at least it offered shelter from the wind. We had a bite there as we knew up at the Pass, aka the Death Zone, with its 770m of elevation and wind and rain, we wouldn't have time to stop much. From there it was first a gentle climb which we managed to cycle (and Paul got the call from the solicitor confirming the missives were done and the flat legally sold, after that news everything looked brighter, even the Corrieyairack Pass). Then it was a few km of pushing up the steep section, which was mercifully kind of sheltered from the wind.
Getting
on the top was a bit of an anticlimax as it was raining hard, cold
and with a strong headwind, which meant no time to linger. There was
when I realised that the descent was not as smooth as I remembered
it...and I went in hunger crisis which meant stop and eat urgently!
In 2 min I shovelled down my falafel wrap (460 calories) and feeling
a bit more recovered, it was time to go down. The descent was really
never ending, rocky, and filled with climbs (up and down up and down
and so on). Even when I spotted Fort Augustus it was a long way to
get there, with more up and downs and up and downs, repeat. Somehow
we managed to get to the bottom and rejoined the tarmac road, I was
about to start crying!
Hunger crisis! |
It was a smooth and fast entry to Fort Augustus and a bit of a contrast as there were tourists and just looked like a quite place, while we just came down from hell, I love these contrasts! We went for a late lunch number 2, or pre dinner (it was 3.40pm) at out favourite cafe'. We were starving so that Paul got scampi and chips and me a vegetable moussaka...the guy looked at us thinking “now??” They both went down very well!
Can I fall asleep now? |
Once the trauma of the pass was overcome, we went to the shop to buy dinner, breakfast and lunch as we were heading to Invergarry which has no facilities. By then it stopped raining and even though it was a 13km canal + forest track to get there, we were in absolutely no rush, just really glad to have made the Pass. The 6km along the canal felt like the easiest cycle ever, you know when cycling is actually enjoyable? We then crossed the road and got on this forest path, which was first a single track, then it widened up, and after a steep ascent, and then descent, it turned into a narrow single path/push the bike down the trees, and we emerged in Invergarry by a phone box!
We arrived at the Saddle Mountain Hostel at 5pm sharp, and were warmly welcomed by Helen and Greg, great hosts and true mountain lovers (Greg told us that it was the first time cyclists would turn up at the expected time as, no matter where they came from, there were always delays!)! Our room had everything: rack to hang clothes to dry, kettle and a mini fridge. We had a pleasant noodles night there, while outside the midges were roaming in their trillions waiting for me to go out...
The Midge Knight |
Day 4 – Invergarry to Glenelg – 71km, 990m up
15 June 2021
Given how much I struggled the day before, I was scared that today it would turn into a bit of a disaster as there were 14km of unknown/push path to get through. But, as usual, if it has to be done, it has to be done. We tried to help ourselves out a bit by setting off at 7am after eating 3 sachets of oats + banana each. It was not too cold and we even had the occasional glimpse of blue sky. The midges were out in their thousands which meant no lingering around. Helen brought the bikes and after a quick goodbye we were on the main A road to Skye for 9km. With the early hour there was not much traffic around, but we put on the turbo gear to get out of there asap.
We then went on the dead end road by Loch Garry, the first bit being mainly in the forest and there I had a new experience in my life: the rain of midges! We were averaging 24km/h, which meant we run into all the thousands midges which were hanging around and collecting them on the go, my jacket was black with them. Paul was acting as my midge plough but somehow they all came to me (by the end of the day I counted 15 bites only in the 5 squared cm around my eye...guess how many in total?).
As soon as we got out of the trees and the views opened we stopped to readjust ourselves. We thought we saw an otter in the loch, and deer and buzzards, not bad! The traffic on this quite road was basically not existent and it was a pleasure to ride...if not for the midges and the pressure of time.
After the loch the views opened and we started climbing up to a dam. The views were getting better and better, with the silence only interrupted by the sound of the streams coming down the hills. It only needed cowbells and the cries of marmots and we may as well have been climbing up some Alpine Pass, I honestly didn't expect such beauty up there. The landscape reminded us that we finally entered the West Coast, with its rugged tops and this tiny road twisting up and down, and no cars!!! I spent the next few km looking around in bewilderment, wondering if this was really happening, and how on earth Paul found this route!
At some stage the road started to deteriorate and from there it was a steep twisty descent down a ravine to Kinloch Hourn, an hamlet of a few houses and amazingly also a B&B / Tea room. At 9.40am, 37Km after we started, we reached the end of the road. If that was the edge of civilisation, I wondered what the “unknown” bit would look like! We knew it would have been demanding and would require all out physical and mental strength, so that we stopped for a good break and took advantage of the team room. There was nobody around, just the girl running the place who was super nice and made us scones with jam and cream (“does the jam go on top of the cream?” ...I shovelled down everything before I could get an answer). Despite the 600 calories we were still peckish so that we topped up with a roll of cheese and pickle washed down by ½ litre of coffee. 1200 calories later we were just about filled enough to tackle the infamous ascent...mentally I'd have slept there all day!
Light snack number 1 |
Reluctantly we said goodbye to the girl and approached the start of the path, saying hi to a few cute ponies at the gate. As expected it was a wall of stones from step 1. The climb was 1km long for 200m of ascent, which makes a 20% average gradient, and given we had the random 10 m flat, a few bits were probably closer to 30%. The stones were close to boulders and made the going slow and hard. I had to use the brakes a lot just to pause and regain strengths. I'd have loved to take pictures of that bit, but both hands were needed to push the loaded bike, and even when still, I had to use them to brake or the bike would have ended up in the valley below...
The steep ascent meant that we quickly gained elevation, and we even managed to overtake 2 hikers!! We met 3 in total as that stretch was part of the Cape Wrath trail, however they would have pushed on North to Spean Bridge while our way parted westward across the Amisdale peninsula. I remember thinking “thank goodness it hasn't been raining recently” as it all had the potential to be a see of bog. It was all a gradual up and down, and we managed to cycle the random 100m here and there so that it was actually not to bad. And just the remoteness of the place made us appreciate how lucky we have been with the weather...
We
reached a river which meant underwear and water shoes crossing. The
fording was actually pleasant as the cold water refreshed my feet and
legs...and hopefully drowned a few of the ticks that we later found
all over our legs!
Last ford of the trip! The water shoes have proved the best piece of equipment of this trip |
The path, now a track, followed the river and was a bit rocky and boggy so that it required more pushing. Then a very steep descent, the same kind of the ascent on the other side, started and in no times we dropped quite a lot of elevation and reached flattish and more domestic and cyclable grounds. Looking back we could hardly believe were we came down from!
We were now at the end, or beginning, of another dead end PAVED road in the hamlet of Eilanreach, where we stopped to contemplate the views, take off ticks and have our well-deserved lunch (the 1200 calories consumed on the other side had all been duly burnt by then!)
It was 1.30pm and we made it ahead of schedule, and being at the seaside, we officially crossed the Highlands in 3 days and 2h, what about that? From there it was still a 17km on paved road to Glenelg, with 2 minor climbs and a very steep and long one at the end. The sky didn't look too threatening, but the forecast have been consistent over the last few days so that at 2pm we made a move to avoid the massive downpour that was supposed to start at 3pm and last all day.
As expected the climbs were steep, and by then we were used to pushing the bikes so that it was a no brainer. We felt so relived, content and satisfied with the wild traverse that nothing else mattered! Finally, on the top of the very last steep climb we could see the small village of Glenelg down the coast. The downpour started but in 5min we were there to check in, at 3.10pm, not even a Swiss Watch would have been more punctual!
We staid at the Glenelg Inn, in a beautiful room with sea view, and a sand martin chick nesting right on top of the door (not really bothered by anyone). We spent all the afternoon chilling out while outside the sky was falling. The birds were everywhere in high numbers frenetically flying around looking for food, and given the number of midges I'm sure they won't starve any time soon.
We spent some time talking about the route and wondered why it's not an established one. We couldn't find any blogs or articles from people cycling it so that we may as well have been the pioneers! We do think it's a great route, which offers the right ratio of comfort vs misery. Logistically it's quite easy as there are many supply stops along, and hotels if needed. True, we had been extremely lucky with the weather, and all the boggy bits were dry when we passed, but if it took us 4 days to do it, the hard core people out there fed up with the usual routes could easily do it in 2 days or less, definitely worth giving it a go!
Day 5 – Glenelg to Mallaig – 47 km, 660m up
16 June 2021
We had a late start, as the fist ferry to Skye was at 10am. We spent an hour wondering around the little village before breakfast. Again, bird life was abundant and we spotted 3 herons drying up in the sunshine from the night rain.
It was a very windy day, with gusts at 50km/h, obviously all head wind. We were afraid the ferry would get cancelled due to the winds but when we got there at 9.45am there were people waiting which is always reassuring. While we waited I spotted an otter in the sea, and so many birds were feeding in those rich waters as the currents met right there.
The Glenelg-Skye ferry, which is the last manually operated turntable ferry in Scotland, was definitely worth taking. It's just a 10 min crossing but in that amount of time we saw plenty of otters and seals swimming happily around the boat, what a treat! Pity that the resident Sea Eagle was nowhere to be seen, but we were quite happy with the viewings anyway!
And there we were in Skye! We started the 4km climb up to a pass on a steep tiny road, and had to push on the steepest sections as the headwind was brutal, and it was pouring down too. It was another death zone but luckily it was all paved and not too long. The descent on the other side was spectacular though and made up for the efforts on the ascent. We could see Broadford down in the sunshine, and it was a pleasure to freewheel down this twisty road leaving the bad weather behind.
We then joined the main road, which is narrow and busy. It was only 5km but it was a miracle we got out of it alive...luckily we managed to cycle a good chunk of it on footpaths. Once in Broadford we went to the Coop to get a snack and out lunch (because you never go shopping when you are hungry, even for rings!). We then went to the Love from Skye jewellery shop which thankfully was open, as we decided that that would have been our last attempt!
Somehow, and I really don't know why, we decided that the rings had to come from Skye, where our long journey together started 7 years ago. Our first attempt in May failed as the shop was closed, which worked out fine as now we had to cross all the Highlands with its up and down to get them which makes for a damn good story, and every time we will look at them we will remember this crazy adventure!
We found the perfect rings, those with the profile of the Cuillins, which we will pretend is the Trotternish Ridge instead, because that traverse was another epic adventure which definitely tested our bond! “How much is this in white gold?” “£1,300”, “and in silver?” “£165” yeah, given our wedding reception was worth less than 50 quids I think we are good with silver!
Next leg was the 16 miles road to Armadale where we would get the ferry to Mallaig. That meant retracing 3km back on that awful road. We then got on this other quieter road but with the headwind the going was very slow and the morale below my feet. The ferry sign at the junction suggested that the 14.45 ferry we were planning to catch was cancelled which meant 2 hours wait for the 17.15 one. It was a bit disheartening but then with that wind we may have not even managed to get there in time for the first one. We stopped for lunch on a lay-by and decided to take it easy. The average speed was around 12km/h, but once we got over the first straight bit it kind of got better as we were a bit sheltered by the odd hills. By then we were cycling along the coast and could see the profile of hills everywhere we were looking at, it started to feel enjoyable again!
The speed was improving too and amazingly we made it to the ferry terminal at 15.05, and the ferry was going! Once on board we were about to fall asleep feeling cuddled by the sea. It was not a long day on the saddle at all, but the accumulated fatigue was definitely there!
We landed in Mallaig and were surprised by the amount of tourists around, it was the first time since we started that we saw so many people in a place. We then found the Chlachain Inn, which turned out to be the Inn where we went to the Ceilidh on our first touring trip together, it felt like a circle being closed! Luckily this time we would sleep on a nice bed instead of camping by the primary school... It was 4pm which gave us plenty of time to chill out, and experimenting a different concept of beverage. Paul thought that adding hot water to the chocolate recovery drink would turn it into something like hot chocolate...don't do it. I never throw away food but that was too much for me too!
Remembering the old times at the primary school |
...and at the roundabout! |
While chilling out on this sunny room battered by the wind we had the amazing idea of avoiding 30km of busy A road, the one to Fort Williams, by catching the train instead. The ticket office was closed and the website useless, but we decided to go for it and have a late start instead.
Day 6 – Mallaig to Tobermory – 70km, 1000m up
17 June 2021
Getting on a train with bikes, and without bike reservations, always raises your adrenaline level. Thankfully the conductor was not an ass and let us in. It was just a few stop journeys and the train was empty but one never knows with Scotrail...While waiting for the train to go we spotted 2 seagull chicks by the rails, tiny fluffy chicks always cheer me up!
We got off at Lochailort, and then got on the A861 towards another unknown bit, but this time it was a tarmac unknown! We stopped quickly by the road to take off a layer and I was eaten alive by the midges. It was a pleasant cycle although it was all a roller coaster. We were planning to stop for lunch in Salen, half way through, but by the time we reached Ardshealach I was already starving. We thought there would be nothing on this road but we found a great spot with a shop and toilets and sunshine. That road turned out to be busier with cars than we thought, but there were quite a few cyclists going around too in supported groups. I had no idea this place is so popular with them!
Energies restored we quickly reached Salen and then started the proper Intervals workout on the tiny road by the coast to Kilchoan, where we would get the ferry to Tobermory. I remember being at km 50 of the day and asking Paul “is it normal that I'm not even 50k into the cycle and I'm already dead tired?” All the ups and downs were draining me. At least we spared ourselves 30km of the same stuff in the morning! We were hoping to catch the 15.15 ferry but given how tired we were and the road profile there was no way we could make it so that we just took it easy. We knew there was a big climb right before the end and in fairness we couldn't be bothered the least, but then when it started going up, it felt like we were climbing up another Alpine Pass, where you actually keep climbing to go somewhere rather than dealing with intervals! Half-way through, the road flattened up along a slope offering great views and that definitely lifted our spirits and made it worth doing. From the top it was a quick descent to Kilchoan. Unfortunately we got there 10min after the ferry left, but the next one was at 16.45 so that we only had 1h to kill, and the weather was not too bad. We stopped at a cafĂ© to grab a proper hot chocolate thinking how beautiful all this crazy adventure has been so far.
The ferry quickly took us to Tobermory which welcomed us with heavy rain. Luckily our hotel was not far away, although it was on top of the village which meant another last push...the finisher of the day!
Day 7 – Tobermory to Oban – 40km, 460m up
18 June 2021
We have cycled around all Mull a couple of years ago and had a great time so that we were originally planning to do this again and catch the last train from Oban. Then Paul realised that there was Scotland-England at 8pm and we were not keen on being on the train from Glasgow packed with drunkish people, so that we went for a shorter version, which took us along Loch Frisa and then down to Craignure. The midges situation was not improving and I cycled along the loch with the midge net on my head. I couldn't really see much but for desperate problems desperate solutions...I really hope the sea eagle was not around as a unicorn could have passed in front of him and I wouldn't have seen it.
In my head the proper trip was over already, so that this was just the last push to get us home. We had an amazingly great time in this trip but I really hope they will let us fly soon to somewhere that is not the Falkland Islands! Either this or Paul will go nuts and plan the ultimate fucked up expedition, and me I really have no space left for more midge bites!! When I waited myself back home I was 1kg lighter, which equals the weight of all the blood they sucked out of me!
So what's next challenge? Quit smoking...OMG!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment