Chapter 6 – Touching the sky in Colorado

Colorado was by far the best State we cycled through. Finally cycling was fun again! As soon as we entered it we could feel how people love sport. Bicycles everywhere, for the first time we did not feel weird. People are also extremely helpful and chilled out, the mountains stunning, and the terrain smooth and nice. Colorado we love you!

After spending 2 days off in Steamboat it took a while to get back in the cycling mode, but at least we charged up with energies for the high passes to come.

Day 44 – 17 July – Steamboat to Kremmling – 95km and 1460m elevation gained

We had an early start and enjoyed the fresh air rolling up and down the road out of town. Soon we left the tarmac and entered a muddy track who lead us up to the Stagecoach Reservoir, truly a gem of beauty. 

Fellow Dividers giving us advice

Stagecoach Reservoir

We then followed a 3 miles path along its left side and then started a 40km climb up to Lynx Pass (2700m). The gradient was not steep and I really enjoyed the view of the surrounding hills. We then decided to get on the road up the Gore Pass (2900m), which was a very steep 4 miles climb on Hw 134 but we were rewarded with an endless downhill to the junction with Hw 40. 

By that stage we already had 90km and 1460m elevation gained in our legs, so that we were quite pleased to be forced to get a lift on a pick up Kremmling due to works on the road. 

Although we didn’t expect much, we really liked the village, you could feel a strong sense of community and the hostel we staid in was cheap and nice.

Day 45 – 18 July – Kremmling to Frisco – 75km and 900m elevation gained

On our way out of Kremmilg we had to pass through 9km of construction on road. The views over the Gore and Eagle Nest Mountain were spectacular, but the road was too busy and narrow, and undulating too. Eventually we made it to Silverthorn which was quite disappointing. As in many other towns, there is no downtown. The town is spread along a long road without any sense of centre. After a break we kept going toward Frisco on a beautiful cycling path that lead first up to the Dillon Dam and then along its right shore to Frisco. The village was really busy with cars and people. It was Saturday and there was a triathlon and other events on. All the campsites were full and we ended up in the Alpine Inn, the only place with a room left, right when the downpour started.

Day 46 – 19 July – Frisco to Harstel – 103km and 1100m elevation gained

What an amazing cycling day, this is the Divide, one day you want to cry and the next one you feel in heaven! After a 10h deep comfortable sleep and an abundant buffet breakfast we set off with all our waterproof gear on, following the twisting 17 km bike path up to Backabridge (2900m), which is a lovely ski resort. After a quick stop we stated the 17km climb up to the Boreas Pass (3500m) that was actually much easier than we expected. The gradient was steady and the road condition good so that I never had to use the lower gear. The clouds were covering the high peaks, but we still had beautiful views and enjoyed the Scottish feeling in the air. 

Boras Pass - 3500m

The fresh air on the top didn’t allow for much lingering, and after wearing a few extra layers we started a long and rocky descent to Como, where we hoped to get a good coffee. 

You mean no ice cream today?

Unfortunately everything was shut down in Como. To our disappointment, more than once the information in the Adventure Cycling Association maps we have (paid 100$) are not up to date (it seems that the shop closed down 3 years ago…). Good stuff we had some food with us, as also in the next village, Harstel, the mercantile was shut. At least the HOB pub (Harstel Only Pub) was open and the people were extremely friendly. We were told we could camp for free in front of the pub, or 2 miles away there was a ranch offering accommodation. We decided to go and check out the place, The Harstel Spring Ranch, a beautiful mansion in the middle of nowhere. We could camp for 20$ and use all the facilities in it, great deal! The place was huge and empty, and it felt weird to go around with no sign of owner or other guests, it was like being in a horror movie… But, the sunset was great as well as the company of the goats wondering around.

Waiting for someone to turn up

Learning from my cousins

Paul scalding the goat who tried to eat his pannier

Day 47 – 20 July – Harstel to Salida – 80km and 800m elevation gained

Another amazing / surreal day in the Divide. The goats and roosters gave us the good morning at 6am. Having breakfast in the huge and empty kitchen was weird, as well as leaving without saying goodbye to anybody (apart from the cute goats). We then headed back on track, followed the Hw 9 for 3km and then back on gravel, bumping up and down in this vast land with views of faraway mountains. 

We felt lucky and privileged to be there and to be living a dream. After going up and down for 30km, it was a gentle downhill for 15km, and then the big hill started. By then I had no energy left and the legs went on strike. We stopped for a recovery break and met a Czech couple who was cycling from Argentina, really nice guys. We then pushed the bike up a 500m dreadful stretch. Due to works the road was in a real bad shape, and its steepness made the decision easy: push! After that we went back on the saddle until cresting the top at 3000m. The 15 km descent to Salida was the best of my life, the views were so spectacular that I could hardly keep the eyes on the road.

What a descent!

We dropped 800m in 15km and from the high mountains on top we got in the arid landscape of the San Isabel Forest, that was probably one of the best sections in the whole Divide route. Finally in Salida (voted the most favourite town among the riders) we met Lynn and Jim, who spoiled us a lot. Staying with them was like being at home. Great food, advice, company, chats, the perfect refreshing break! Really a big thanks guys, it was a real pleasure to meet you! We hope someday we will be able to return the hospitality.

Day 48 – Day off in Salida

Day 49 – 22 July - Salida to Sargents – 63km and 1260m elevation gained

Distrustful of our maps, Jim gave us all the maps for the next sections, and Lynn filled us up with great food and fueled what was expected to be a short but steep day up to the Marshall Pass (3300m). 

The first bit to Poncha Spring via Hw 50 was relatively flat, the true ascent started straight after it, in the firtst 17km we had already gained 400m. On the way up we met Connor, who was timing his ride and was hoping to cycle 3 Passes and 120 miles that day, respect! From the junction we took the gravel road, a 20km uphill road to the Pass at 3300m. After that it was a sweet 25km downhill to Sargents where we happily called the day. The village is very small but at least there was a small store and a campsite. Apart from that we would met nothing until Del Norte.

Lynn's homemade cookies...gnammy!

Day 50 – 23 July – Sargents to King Storm Campground – 125km and 1600m elevation gained

This was an intense and hard day: 2 Passes, 125km and 1600m elevation gained; by the end of it we were dead tired. We set off early with a few drops of rain. The first 20km to Doylaville were flat and easy, then the climb started and it felt like we have been climbing forever. First the Cochetopa Pass (3000m), then the Carnero Pass (3100m). By the end of the day the sky looked heavy and dark, but after the second Pass and a sweet 7km descent we reached the beautiful Storm King campsite, had a lot of food, warmed up by the fire and had a great night sleep. For those who have sleeping problems: cycle the Divide, you will fell asleep in 2 sec promise!

Cochetopa Pass

Hunger is the best sauce...

Filtering water takes ages...

Day 51 – 24 July – Del Norte – 65km

The campsite was so nice that it was sad to leave it, but the prospect of entering a proper town switched us on and off we went at 8am. The first 23km to La Garita were a quick sweet descent. On entering this tiny village we were welcomed by a rattlesnake by the side of the road, the sigh of the open café was definitely more appreciated!

We had a second breakfast / lunch in this nice little store and decided to do a detour to La Ventanita, which should have been a couple of miles from the route…one never learns! It turned out we almost got lost again in plain desert. The Garmin showed a route different from the map, and after an hour or so of wondering around canyons we decided to go back to the original road and just follow it to Del Norte. 

The energies were very low and we could only think of a shower and a cold drink. After a quick visit to the small library we went to check in the hostel/cafe, the Organic Paddler, which is a kind of posh hippy style place who sell stuff double priced on the base that they are cool. The hostel itself was quite cool, if you are in 2 staying there…pity that the dorm was for 9 people and there was no division with the kitchen. We had a pleasant time there though, sharing it with a Spanish guy and Jonny and Dan, the British guys we met outside Yellowstone weeks before. We planned to stay and extra day to recuperate energies in sight of the highest Pass in all the route: the infamous Indiana Pass.  

Developing the "Divide Look"

Day 52 – Day off in Del Norte

can I sleep more?

Day 53 – 26 July – Del Norte to Platoro – 80km and 1846m elevation gained

This was the official last day following the Divide route, and we celebrated 2000 miles cycled too, it felt like an important day! We knew it would be a hard climbing day and went in the climbing mode straight away. The first 20km on pavement were ok, then the 12 miles dreadful climb started: granny gear, music, and a lot of patience and up we went. Reaching the 3600m Pass felt like a huge achievement but I could feel the altitude in my head and legs and couldn’t wait to get down. Pity that you don’t really go down. There was a lot more climbing to do, for a total of 1846m elevation gained, and a very poor average speed of 11 km/h. Even the descents were slow as the terrain got rocky and washed out. Still, the views were spectacular, at every turn there were more spectacular mountains so that we didn’t mind the slow speed so much. 

Indiana Pass - 3600m!

The last climb to the Stunner Pass was endless, and I had to push the bike for some bits. On its top I was dead, but a guy stopped for a chat and gave us a soda and water melon. He heard about the Divide Route and said he was impressed and felt a huge respect for the nutters who do it. The sky was turning black so that we said goodbye and rushed down the mountain to the beautiful village of Platoro, elevation 3000m, where we found a superb caravan/cabin and refilled ourselves with a huge pizza. 

Somehow it was sad to think that the day after we would part from the Divide Route. We don’t regret the decision at all, but considering the beautiful (and hard) time we had on it, it felt sad to turn direction.

Day 54 – 27 July – Platoro to Antonito – 73km and 340m elevation gained

The day started with rain and a long rocky (not sure I’ll miss the Divide so much…) descent to Horca, where we would take the paved road to Antonito and say goodbye to the Divide. The day was not remarkable, the road scenic but boring, and nothing much in Antonito either. The thoughts are now for the future route to follow…

Done with gravel!

Day 55 – 28 July – Antonito to Taos – 104km and 470m elevation gained

Long and full day. After 8km we entered New Mexico, welcomed by another rattlesnake and some drop of rain. 

The first 50km to Tres Piedras were nothing special, the fun started later. First we stopped to visit the first Earthship, truly inspiring stuff:

http://earthship.com 

Then we passed through the Rio Grande Gauge which was absolutely amazing, 

and finally we entered the cute village of Taos, full of art and colour and with a Mexican taste. We are now having a wet day off here and are planning to get to Santa Fe to finish our cycling trip. We still have a month to go and have other projects in mind but still working on them. 

Final day: 31 July - Taos to Santa Fe

After a few days in Taos we get moved towards Santa Fe. It was not an easy ride but the thought that it was the last day on the bikes gave us energies. First we passed through a desertic landscapes, then it was a terrific section along the Rio Grande gorge: no shoulder, heavy traffic and lots of uphills, truly scaring and no idea how we managed to get out alive. Then it was the section in the highway, under a thunderstorm, again, no much fun. We finally got out at the exit to Tesuque and had our sandwich sheltered by a tree in a heavy storm. When it stopped we climbed the last steep 5km up to the top of the hill and finally, after so much effort and adversity, the city of Santa Fe was below us. From there it would only be downhill. 
 

waiting for the storm to pass

Entering Santa Fe