The Pictish Trail cycle

 

 

I don't know what possessed me this time, but I was actually the one suggesting we should cycle the Pictish Trail

https://bikepacking.com/routes/the-pictish-trail/

It was not easy (mostly due to the wintery weather conditions despite being June), but it was definitely more cyclable than most of the gravel routes we have done, and enjoyable too (despite the headwind...). After 7 days and ½ of cycling we are now back home completely destroyed but with a full lot of new memories we will treasure for a long while.

Day 1 – Thurso to Dunnet Head - 46km and 300m
1 June 24

The adventure started! Well, kind of, at least we got to the start, after 8h on 3 trains. It was a beautiful sunny day all along, it was surreal to get to Thurso with so much sunshine, but to compensate we got a lot of wind too. And we are not the only people trying out this route (not to be confused with the music group who share the name, and who definitely gets good trips...). On the same train there was another bikepacker, like the true hardcore one currently camping somewhere, heading the same way, who knows if we will see him again.

Leaving the flat at 6.15am, so exiting!

 

 

Train number 1

Train number 2

Train number 3...

Thurso in sunshine!

We set off straight away on the 20k to Dinner Head, the official start. I didn't expect it would be so busy with cars, so different from when I cycled here 10 years ago! We stopped at a small Morrison for a snack, I wasn't too inspired so I just got a drink, big mistake as 10k later I bonked!

We kept going fast with tailwind, until we got off the main road and headed North, the wind was brutal, there were still cars so we had to stop at every 5min as it was the single lane one, and the place itself was not that special...too many people, cold and windy. We walked up the top, took a few pictures and headed back. 

The first bit to the main road was the best ever, with tailwind and gorgeous views, then on the road it was a drag but we made it back. Got to Tesco to get the sandwich for tomorrow, checked in the nice Westlea B&B (currently sitting by the big window looking at the Orkney), and then went on foraging mission. After many failed attempts we ended up getting a Chinese take away and ate it in the park like tramps, with local entertainment offered by the local band who was playing just behind us. That's a good welcome!

Getting shelter from the wind, what an ordeal!

Having dinner at the park (see the amused face of the man behind...)

Way better than a telly

 

Can't wait to leave the road and start on the gravel tomorrow...as they say, be careful what you wish for as you may get it!

 

Day 2 – Thurso to Helmsdale - 79km and 1035m up

2 June

And so it started, at times I thought I was in a different world, like how did we end up there?

We slept like logs (Paul started snoring 2 min after putting his head on the pillow) and had a lovely breakfast, with a huge bowl of porridge, banana and strawberries.

No idea why I was laughing...already high in endorphins?!

The morning trauma of packing the bikes

At 8.15am we were ready to roll, the sky was grey but it soon turned into sun, and unfortunately the wind started picking up too. We got on a small road to Wasterdale, cars around=0, can it always be like this??

The hostel where I staid the first time I was in Thurso, great memories!

That's how the roads should be like, empty!

First glimpse of the mountains we would soon reach

It was so surreal to be surrounded by all that big space, as the eye can see. Then we finally got on the gravel, thankfully the cyclable kind, and we stopped shortly after at a small graveyard, in the middle of nowhere, like who was buried here? It was a lovely spot to spend your eternity, with a group of hills so weirdly shaped and just stunning on the far away horizon, and guess where we were heading?

Some abandoned estate in the middle of nowhere, we would see quite a few of them

Turning means....tailwind finally!!

It kept going up and down, with mostly headwind until we turned at some lodge and from there it was hard to control the bike. I have no word to describe how beautiful it was cycling there, and all to ourselves!

We passed the hills and for a short bit got on tarmac, but left it soon to go down to the river, crossed it on a rickety bridge (it was so windy that the thing was swinging, and honest half way through I started hallucinating and saw the earth moving too, that was so weird!! Def on the Pictish Trail, the music group one!). From there it was 4km of hike a bike, mostly on bog. Not even me managed to get out clean, despite all the efforts (Paul still maintains the title of the filthiest one, and proud of it!).

 

Using my body as a wind breaker

The bridge where I started hallucinating

They call me the "bog master"!

 

The sea!!!

As a mirage we saw 2 cyclists coming from the opposite way, and then we also met the guy from the day before, and then yet another guy going our way, this route is popular! We stopped for our sandwich before rejoining a gravel track of some sort, then dealt with the last 8km to civilization in Berriedale.

There was a cafe there (the only place we found today), and joined the other cyclist who was having lunch. We didn't even ask him his name but it was cool to chat, he is the hardcore one!

We then put on the hi Viz strap and faced the 9miles on the A9, which started with 1km at 13%. It was not actually as bad as I thought it would be, at least the car drivers mostly behaved, while the wind situation was getting worse and worse...

It was only 3pm so we stopped to go and check out the Ousdale broch. We parked the bikes at the gate and walked down the path while eating the prawn crackers we were given at the Chino the night before, they went down very well! I'm also glad we had time to check the broch as it was quite something to think how people we don't know anything about lived in the Iron Age (glad I was born when I was...with central heating and hot showers!)

The crackers from the Chinese went down a treat!

Back to the bikes it was only 7km to destination, mostly downhill. There is not much in Helmsdale, but the shop was open and we could make our dinner. The hostel was full of old people, no party youngsters for a change! I bet I'll sleep well.

 

Day 3 – Helmsdale to kind of Lairg - 83km, 1100m up
3 June

What a weird day. We have cycled through so many varied landscapes that I can hardly get my head around where we have been...and where we are now. The common denominator was: headwind!

We had breakfast at 7am sharp to beat the crowd (they arrived 5 min later). Had a huge bowl of porridge then got ourselves together and headed off at 8.15am, with the blessing of Marie, the very kind hostel keeper. It was sunny and we thought it would last all day, but the jacket staid on.

We left Helmsdale via the back road and started heading North West on a lovely road, very quiet and peaceful. The headwind was not too strong and it was just enjoyable. After 12 km we left it and crossed the river on another rickety bridge, better than yesterday though. We were in grass land (lapwings and plenty of swallows), crossed the railway and got on a gravel road. 

 

 

 

The climb started there, it was steep to start with and then we joined a minor paved road (no cars whatsoever, don't even know who that road is for but I'm certainly not complaining). We changed direction there and got the wind pushing us up. As we climbed we could see the hills all around us, and the road we just left, what a place to be! 

 

The best part was reaching the top and starting the most amazing descent, which took us back on the A9. We stopped for a bite before and for ourselves psychologically read for the ordeal. 

I can't be bothered...

 

It was only 8km on it but the headwind was ferocious, and the traffic a nightmare. I had to stop half way through to recompose myself as it was really not fun, but at least it didn't last long and we got off on another minor road just as we entered Brora. We left it soon after and got on another bridge, and then in kind of meadows/ forest paths. I so needed it to recover from the big road!

The second climb started shortly after, but it didn't really feel like a climb, like when Paul said we got to the top I thought oh, have we started climbing at all?? (although I was almost on granny gear so it must have been climbing...) The trees also offered some shelter from the wind and it was an absolute pleasure to cycle there. The descent started on a nice gravel road, and then we got a single track down the forest, which we were skeptical about but it was the best ever! 

We finally made it to Golspie at noon, in time for a well deserved lunch. Never go to a shop when you are hungry! I bought myself a bean wrap, 1/2 l of coke (which I only drink in desperation), a mini focaccia and a pastry. We went to eat by the seaside, sheltered from the wind, sun in our faces and it was the best break ever, I could have fallen asleep there!

So bikepacking...

The wind picked up and we took it as a sign that we had to move on. The first few km were by the sea, then in some natural reserve, and then we rejoined the A9 but this time just for 3km. We took another minor road, which started as a bucolic paradise, with sunshine (I even took off the jacket for the first time!), surrounded by trees and birds singing, no cars or anybody. We knew climb 3 would start soon, but then it was supposed to have the same elevation as the second so I thought sure we will be done with it in no time... It turns out it lasted for 12 km, all with a strong headwind (50km/h). Me I was packed with coke and was having a great time (as we climbed it opened up to open hill landscape, and there was even a huge loch on the top, with waves that made it look like the sea), but Paul was fed up of the wind and got a bit in grumpy mode...

The only time I was wearing a t-shirt. It didn't last long

 

It was so windy up there that there were waves in the loch

 

Eventually we reached the top and the last 5km were a quick downhill to Boner Bridge. We stopped at the spar to get dinner and breakfast, as the place where we would spend the night, the Aultnagar Estate (the only one I could find around) was 10km up the road and in the middle of nowhere. It turns out the place has a very interesting history, as it was built in 1910 by Andrew Carnegie as a place to escape the hustle and bustle of Skibo, the estate was built to be a 12 mile walk to Skibo for the family, with the Falls of Shin at the bottom of the garden! The spar was a bit shit but at least they had pasta...

No idea where we were, nor why the sad face, I blame the wind.

The sun left us and it started to feel chilly again. We really couldn't be bothered of more headwind but there was no alternative but to keep pedalling. Off we went up the road to Lairg. The first km were flattish but we knew there was the finisher waiting for us, and when we saw the wall we dropped for a bar, we needed it so to prepare mentally (4k left...). Eventually we faced it and despite the gradient and headwind slowly slowly we got to the destination. This place is weird and falling apart, but our room is huge and with a great view on the hills in the South. We ate another 1/5 kg of pasta and now finally chilling out. Tomorrow we should get rain, how much we don't know. And headwind. We will wake up and decide which route to take (I hope we keep going on this one!)

The royal room!

The less royal breakfast...good stuff we had porridge!

View from the window

 

Day 4 – Middle of nowhere to Dingwall, 81km and 800m up

4 June

Today I really had no energy, and not because I didn't eat enough (400gr pasta in 2...), I think I need to get used to cycle touring and the day after day...

We both had a great night sleep in the royal bed, and when we woke up the weather was kind of ok, but by the time we got ready for breakfast it was pissing down with gale force wind... While eating the porridge Paul came up with a compromise. We would follow the Pictish Trail for half day, then head down to the coast, to Alness, and get on the NCN 1 to destination.

By 8.30am we were packed, it was freezing but at least it was not raining yet. A red squirrel waved us good luck. We retraced the 10km to Boner Bridge, and this time with tailwind we were flying (morale booster for our average speed which has been declining day after day..).

We crossed the bridge and got on a small road towards Croick for another 10miles, this time with headwind and the random shower. It was a day of hood up hood off, and stopping under trees (when there were trees) to get shelter. Finally we left the small road and got to the one to Alladale, which was like closing a loop as we came up there when cycling the Great North trail. Past the red phone box we turned left and the forest, birds and the landscape really were so lovely and filled my heart with peace. I even saw a red squirrel feasting in a feeder. 

Taking shelter from the rain

We turned direction and started the long climb on gravel, with steep bits but finally we got the wind pay off and got pushed to the top (no way I'd have managed to cycle it otherwise!). As we reached the top the sky opened, we took a few pictures and started on the descent, which was the longest ever, like never ending, like I was thinking how much did we climb to keep going down for so long?

Eventually we got on a road, and from there it was a quick few km to Alness, which we reached shortly before 1pm in time for lunch. The sun came out by then, but we were trying to kill time and ended up going to the Dalmore Farm restaurant, highly recommend, no wonder it was packed full!

I had a lovely soup and panini while outside the showers were following each other. Finally warm again we said goodbye to the cute donkeys who were guarding the bikes and with the head down we cycled the 10 miles to Dingwall.

We still had 45min to kill before check in time, so we went to Tesco to get a few treats and a coffee, then checked in the nice B&B, and for a Thai dinner, super spicy which was great as it made me forget the cold of the day...wait until tomorrow and Thursday, when the feel like is supposed to be 1 degree... it's June for God's sake!

Day 5 – Dingwall to Granton on Spay, 117km and 980m up
5 June

What a long day, and what a struggle it has been, I'm not even sure why as it was not even that long, we got mostly tail wind, and I was well fed. It was cold and showery though, with the hood coming on and off at every hour.

We had breakfast at 7.30am with the company of a man who was hiking here and there. Everyone was quite impressed with what we were up to, good stuff they didn't see me at the end of the day!

As we left we got the first shower but missed the worse. We started by following the NCN 1 to Inverness, which started with a climb, then snaking itself Sustrans style and magically we found ourselves crossing the bridge to Inverness, it felt like a landmark moment, with the far North bit done with and ready for the next.

Almost in Inverness

We only cycled 25km and it was already 10am. No idea how is that possible given we were on tarmac. The sky turned black so we went to the Victorian market and got a scone and coffee (I'm definitely putting on weight!). We left town still on the NCN1.

This time we didn't get lost and it was a quick way out. At some stage we left it and got back on the Pictish Trail, on the most amazing forest track, smooth, pleasant to ride and thankfully quite fast too! Back on the road we then got on the single track bit, which got washed away by the river, so we turned back and got to Nairn on the road. By then I was already quite tired, it was noon so time for s sandwich from the co-op, and coke, which we drank in the sun on a bench. Off we went for the next 10 miles to Forres, this time following the NCN1. We got there as the sky turned pitch black and got sheltered in the cafe of a huge Tesco, warmth finally! We got a bean and cheese toast which went down great (can't face any more cakes or sweets!).

At 2.30pm we set off on the Dave way, the old railway. I thought it would have been a lovely smooth and well graded 37km to destination but we soon realised it was not the case...the start was a mess, slow going, full of mud and puddles and just really super slow. Today felt like I pedalled hard all the time to go nowhere, one of those days I guess.

After 10km it kind of improved, and just before we left the trees to get on the higher open moorland the sky opened again and we stopped below a tree waiting for it to pass...we staid there a good 20min and then we just moved on regardless. It was freezing, I couldn't be bothered, I felt like progress was very slow but there was no way out but keep pedalling.

13km to destination the route took us to the road, and then back up again, at which point I said fuck it we stay on the road! Even on tarmac it felt I was pedalling again the windmills, but eventually the descent arrived (5km!!) and as we turned at some stage we got the full view of the Cairngorms, with snow! That definitely made my day, as well as arriving at destination and being welcomed by Nick, the kindest person ever. We staid at the Ravenscourt House, another big estate but at least this one was not falling apart. On the contrary, it was probably the best place we staid. We are the only people staying, but it's so beautiful, and the garden is so well kept, with many birds feeders and birds, I just love it!

Setting off in sunshine...

 

 

waiting for the heavy rain to stop (20 min...)

 

 

That's me done with that track!

 We thought we would eat Thai again but the restaurant was fully booked, so we went to a pub instead. The beer went down a treat.

Heaven!

 

Can't believe it's 8.30pm already, at least tomorrow it's a shorter day. In moments of despair I like to think that we started in Thurso, which feels like 10 lives ago. I suppose it's normal to be a bit tired, we have covered more than 1/2 distance and the next 2 days should be a bit more exiting.

Day 6 - Granton on Spay to Ballater, 65km, 917m up
6 June

After a 9h deep sleep in the coziest of the beds, I woke up with the great feeling that I didn't have to cycle from Dingwall. We knew we had a short day ahead, and dubious weather, so we decided to take it easy and waste time any time we could.

We had a pleasant breakfast in the glass room, checking out the birds at the feeders and a cute red squirrel showing off his acrobatic moves. Nick came to have a chat, really a lovely man, so glad we stayed there.

Finally at 9am we hit the road. It was freezing but with all my layers on I was ok. We got on the road to Tomintoul which started with a good climb, actually it was 3 climbs, which was good as it warmed me up. The sky looked like a Russian roulette of black clouds roaming around ready to hit at any stage, but we got away dry and I have no clue why (everybody else we met today seemed to have been hailed on!). I'm so glad my memory is rubbish as we had the very steep descent followed by the very steep (13% gradient) ascent. The traffic was not too bad and we crossed a group of cyclists struggling up the steep bit (they had it worse....Forza I shouted at them). They were still smiling so I guess all good...

 

Still can't believe we didn't get soaked!

At 10.30am we reached Tomintoul and as we entered the cafe it started raining, perfect timing! I don't know why but just the thought of sweet stuff repulses me, and I haven't even had too many cakes nor bars, weird. Good stuff they already had soup which went down great.

At 11am we left town and headed South on the Glenavon Estate road up to Loch Builg. I had no clue what to expect but it turned out to be the best route ever! We haven't met a soul, in the heart of the Cairngorms, it was kind of sunny up to that stage and we were in no rush at all. The quality was good too, with occasional rocky bits but if I could cycle it anyone can!

This hill was packed full of these beautiful purple flowers

The views were sublime, the wind was in our favour, we were both feeling good and the weather was holding. What else do you want from life?

We had our sandwich at 1pm after the hike a bike by the loch, then it started to cloud up and we got moving. The track on that side was really good and smooth, but then suddenly it all became wild, like the apocalypse was coming...the wind picked up strong, it was freezing like I was shaking and the sky was pitch black. That made us speed up and gladly my legs finished the strike of the day before and were responding well (up a climb in 3rd ring!), I still have no clue what happened yesterday, I blame the unmotivational route.

 

We then got on the road and apart from a few bumpy bits it was mostly a very fast descent and not too busy either. We then reached the road to Ballater, Paul had the brilliant idea to get on the footpath in the forest for the last mile which was great as it was sheltered, no cars and lovely to cycle on. We had a little break to kill more time and then at 3pm went to the hostel to drop the bikes. We are now in a cafe waiting for the check in at 5pm...good stuff it was an easy day today as tomorrow we will need all our energies...just hope it will warm up a bit and the weather will be a bit more stable, still can't believe we dodged the rain today!

The time in the hostel was the best and the weirdest. We got our Chinese take away, while chatting with a huge American family from North Carolina, then went to the hostel to eat it. A Tasmanian girl who was cycling the Pictish trail from Dundee to Inverness, alone and with huge panniers was there, as well as another American guy who was travelling around, an elder Scottish hiker, and then an American couple joined in too. It was a very bizarre mixture of characters but we had so many laughs talking to them, and it lifts my spirit thinking that someone like that girl exists!

Day 7 - Ballater to Dundee, 97km, 1200m (to Arbroath)
7 June

Today I was a total mess, from min 1. We knew we had a long day ahead so we thought we may get an early start, but (very unlike me) I woke up at 6.50am instead of 6.30am, kind of in a panic... Then I went for a smoke and to make breakfast, the shitiest of the porridge and coffee, eating felt like a job. I was tidying up and realised I lost the room key, after 10min of looking for it it turned out to be in the toilet...

We finally left shortly after 8am, me I could still have been in bed. The forecasts said heavy rain at 9 to 11, but somehow we only got a few drops here and there. The 10miles to Aboyle were splendid, so smooth and fast and just pleasant. Then we left the Deeside Way and headed South on a small road...where we finally saw a pine martin!!!! He was running down the road and we were both in shock since we have been looking for him for 10 years!!

We have just seen a pine martin!!

 

After that the climb started, first in a nice track in a forest, then we reached open moorland. We reached top 1, went down to the single-track, crossed the little bridge where the Tasmanian girl leaned her bike that then fell down the stream... and then up again on top 2, where we pushed the bike as it was way too steep. It was very cold and we quickly made our way down on this track that was a bit too rocky for my taste, but at least we reached the road at noon and stopped at a bench for our sandwich in the sunshine.

We could see the next climb in front of us, but that was not the one

The bridge where the girl's bike fell off...ops!

This is the second climb!

The top!

From there it was mostly a bumpy way down to Edzell, which we reached at km 50, and where we stopped for a hot soup. The other thing was that at the hostel the night before I hit the table leg with my knee, and it was still sore. Cycling was kind of ok but I was starting to get a bit worried as it was not getting any better. Anyway, on we went on several roads eventually getting to Arbroath at 4pm. It was as windy and cold as ever, and with a dodgy knee we decided to get the train to Dundee and skip the final 35km (I would still be out there).

I feel like a failure, but I have no regrets at all!

Dundee unfortunately has been a bit of the anticlimax. After all the nice places we have passed through and staid overnight, the hostel is very impersonal, old, and not with good vibes. Dinner was shit too, we paid £42 and left half of it there as it was close to inedible (and we are omnivorous cyclists!!)

Paul had the surprise wee bottle of whiskey which he was sparing for desperate times...now was the time! THANKS!!!

We are sooooo done!

 

Anyway, tomorrow we head back home, it feels like the right time. We had a great adventure but to me it feels it ended yesterday, now it's just a matter of getting back home.

Day 8 – Dundee to Edinburgh, 106km, 1200m up

8 June

The knee was kind of getting better, at least it was not worse so I figured the cycling didn't affect it. The weather forecasts were ok, like strong wind from the West but by the time it got to gale force at noon we figured we should be turning down South and then East. We decided to go for it and reach home triumphantly.

For this last day we didn't follow the Pictish Trail but the NCN 777 to Falkland first, then the NCN 1 to Kinross and back home. We have done it before so nothing new about it, just pleasant countryside (despite the headwind and the random few steep climbs).

We stopped at Newburgh for coffee and freshly backed scone, then up the second steep climb to Auchtermuchty, then it was kind of bumpy and down to Falkland, then another slow climb into headwind to Kinross where we had our lunch by Loch Leven as usual. 

where is the cappuccino??

From there it was a quick 13 miles, and another climb, to Dumfermline where we always stop to look at the view ahead...home!

The rest was quite unremarkable, just really the last drag in total exhaustion, to reach Edinburgh where we were the salmons waving our way through the thousands of mostly girls in glitter and pink who were heading to Murrayfield for the Taylor Swift concern (me: Taylor who?).

The horror

 

What an immense feeling of satisfaction and relief to reach home! Overall we can't believe how well it went: no mechanicals, no injuries (apart from the freaky knee one), we never really got soaked, the places we passed through were mostly spectacular and filled a few gaps in the map, and we met splendid people, we couldn't have asked for more!