Cape Wrath trail (part 2)

 

Finally the time arrived to go back to the Cape Wrath trail! We were a bit apprehensive given the remoteness and all the other challenges (weather, logistic, bog, pathless bits, lack of resupply points etc), but equally exited at the idea of going to get lost in the hills far away from anything and anyone. It definitely delivered what was on the tin (in 70km we haven't met a soul), just a pity we had to cut it short due to the weather, but this means that one day, hopefully next spring, we will be back. It's certainly not an easy route, but not impossible either, and there is something about this trail that gets in your blood and becomes an obsession. Despite being around for only 3 days it definitely left a mark which I doubt will fade any time soon.

We both upgraded our sleeping bags (mine a winter Alpkit Skyehigh 900), and I got a new rucksack (65l), we waited until the last min forecasts which were decent enough for this time of the year and bought our train tickets to Achnashellach.

Day 1 – Achnashellach to Kinlochewe – 20km

30 Sept 2023

The rucksack was a bit of a sore sight with its 15kg of staff, I took off as much as I could but 1/3 of it was taken by sleeping bag and tent (Paul had the stove), and the rest were clothes and food. It did feel heavy on the first day, and left a mark especially on my hips, but you get used to everything and by day 2 it was like life as normal. We woke up at 5am and at 6am walked down to Haymarket for the first of the 3 trains, for a total of 6h. We got off at 12.40pm, truly in the middle of nowhere. There were a few elder ladies on the train who waved us good luck when the train left, they didn't know our plans but the rucksacks said it all. We were off for a good adventure and from their faces it looked like they would have loved to do this in their days. Carpe diem!

We were both quite spaced out after the long journey, had no clue were we were going but by default we started walking on the only path there. The start was very merciful as we were mostly on very good paths, like first the path existed and you could see it, and it was all dry rocks! The weather was perfect. No wind, no rain and no sun, and it wasn't even cold. I set off with base layer, fleece and jacket but as soon as we started climbing I was in a pool of sweat and removed most layers. The more we climbed and the better the views, and better still in their autumn coat, it really felt we opened a gate to heaven. 

We soon stopped for lunch as it was already 1.30pm, and we couldn't have chosen a better spot. It's so weird to be catapulted from the cosiness of a train to those wild places in the flip of a switch and it took a while to fully realise where we were.

We climbed a bit more and then started the descent on a beautiful path along a scenic glen. We then got to a track road where a tea room was, and I bet it provided a good shelter and a break from the elements for quite a few folks, luckily not us! The colours all around were stunning and I couldn't help but feeling happy and privileged to be up there.

Boots on day 1

We then joined the main road and walked a bit along it, but there was more traffic than we expected for 4.30pm and looked for a parallel path to take us away from that mess. The map showed a path, so we started following a nice one which suddenly finished and gave place to a few km of pathless bog, just a few km from destination. I really hoped I would get away with it on day 1 but it was a real mess and my shoes got dirty and wet. We tried to go down and rejoin the road, which was 15 metres away as the crow flies, but in between there was a cliff and a stream... We headed back up for more bog, then crossed the stream barefoot, which was surprisingly very refreshing and reinvigorating! On the other side of the stream there was a top quality path down to the village (500m), thank you.

Bog and more bog hurray!

The forecasts said heavy rain all night and morning, so we decided against camping and got a room at the Kinlochewe Hotel. We got there at 6.30pm right in time for dinner which was chickpeas and aubergine curry, and a well deserved pint of beer! My shoulders were sore and bruised, and my heel tendon sore, but gosh we slept well!

Day 2 – Kinlochewe to Shenavall bothy – 30km

01 Oct 2023

We were hoping for an early start and were a bit disappointed at the 8am breakfast, but we barely woke up at 7.30am (our bodies really needed a good break to recuperate), and it was pouring down outside, so glad we were in a cosy bed and not in a tent!

Breakfast was on the poor side as they didn't even have porridge, but then we didn't have to use the stove in the rain so we couldn't really complaint. We also have a nice chap with a couple from St Andrews who were sitting at the next table, and we commented on how well our first camping night went!

We left a few minutes before 9am thinking the rain finally stopped, and we set off on a paved road for a few hundred meters. The rain started before it turned into a track and we put on all the waterproof. Thankfully the first few km were on a good track, and with a strong tail wind the rain was not really bothering us. It was not even cold and I managed without gloves and just the rain jacket. At the Heights of Kinlochewe we turned left up Gleann na Muice. We started climbing and after readjusting my rucksack so to give a break to my shoulders, my hips could definitely feel the weight and I ended the day with pains in muscle I didn't know I had!

We reached Lochan Fada at noon, right in time for lunch which today consisted of wraps and beans (thanks Ryan!). It was a bit of a messy business but we had water nearby (really everywhere..), energies got restored and we removed 1kg of weight. To top it up, the sun finally came out by then, can it get better?

This was the end of part 1 (the easy part) of the day, and we then started part 2, aka the fucked up one. The path was faint and on the boggy side. We were going up and it's always more difficult to spot the path this way, but so glad there were cairns in the right spots so we managed to get to Loch Meallan an Fhuda without getting lost.

From there the book said to avoid going down to the Bialach as it was a boggy mess, and instead stay high and go down later. It was a huge space though, and without a path it was hard to know exactly how high to go or when to get down. Amazingly I managed to get ourselves to the river, at exactly the spot where the cairn was, like statistically the odds must be 1 in 10,000! The river was a shoes off one. I threw my boots on the other side (and so glad they ended up on land rather than down the river!) and again crossed barefoot. The stones were so smoothed by the water that there was no need for sandals. Paul got his feet soaked instead, and given they were soaked already, and would get soaked later on too, it really didn't make much difference to him...

From there we started descending to the bialach and were very happy as we thought the path would be good. The good news was that there was a path, but it was all bog again :( On the positive side I managed to keep my feet dry by hopping here and there, we estimated that I must have walked double distance by trying to keep the feet dry. It was worth it.

The views on the other side of the glen were equally stunning, the more so the further down we went. We started seeing Loch an Nid from a distance and it took a while, and another barefoot river crossing, to actually get there. We dried our feet while feasting on trail mix and just taking in all the views.

The next 3 photos were taken within 5 min

Bog, we love bog!

We walked along the loch and it was all bog. We saw a few deer not bothered by our presence, and at the end of the loch there were cows who looked half feral, with really fluffy fur and they just looked so happy and peaceful there. I take they don't know what stress is. We reached the land rover track, like a good one, but that was not for us to follow. Instead we turned left on another boggy path for the final 4 to 5km to the bothy. We were starting to feel tired and even thought of camping there around in the trees, but the prospect of walls was too appealing and so we moved on.

There were many streams to cross but we knew we were on the last leg, and the views from then on were stuff from another world. We saw rain coming in and speeded up, until at least we turned a corner and we could see it, the Shenavall bothy! We have never stayed in a bothy before so this was another exiting first experience. Luckily we were the only 2 people there, and quite a few cure cows wondering around.

We settled in nicely, inside it was not that great but the views on the glen, loch and hills was a superb one, and it's not camping! We got ourselves sorted and then had dinner – a huge bowl of couscous with veggies. We enjoyed the sunset, the almost full moon, strange sounds (is it hunted? Turns out the cow was scratching herself on the wall outside), and had an early night, which was good as my body was really sore! Outside we could hear the deer rutting all night, and the cows mooing all night, they never really have a rest in this place!

BOTHY GRAFFITI WISDOM:

Dinner time!

We may have overdone a bit with the couscous...

Day 3 – Shenavall bothy to Ullapool – 19km

02 Oct 2023

I can't hardly believe it myself, but I WAS HOT!!! I went to sleep with the usual camping outfit - thermal pyjama, fleece and puff jacket – and normally I would have shivered all night, but investing in the winter sleeping bag paid off as I had to take off all the clothes and I was still sweating!

We woke up at 6.30am and had a relatively good night sleep. It was just about to get light and the almost full moon was out in all its glory. And, no rain! The cows were wondering around eating as normal, and then Paul made me the best and most romantic present ever, now I know he really loves me...he dug me a shit hole and left the shovel there to show the spot! That was so sweet of him as I would still there trying to dig it if left to myself...

He also cooked a much welcome hot breakfast – muesli and coffee – after which we started to pack and get ready for the day. His socks and boots were still wet, but then they would probably have got wet soon even if they would have been dry... always look at the bright side!

The bothy ghost

Ready for another day yeah!

The unique pleasure of putting on wet socks and boots in the morning

Finally at 8.30am we were on the go and said goodbye to this dream place. We started by getting on the wrong path, like towards the loch, instead of up. We then turned and climbed up a steep and boggy path which never ended. It took us ages to cover those 3 to 4km, exactly 1h 40”. I couldn't believe it when I checked the watch and it said 10.30am and we still had to reach the track, it didn't feel like we were going slowly, but then it did take time to negotiate our way up. On the positive side it was a treat to look back, as the higher we went the better the views, so, who cares if it took us ages?

Eventually we reached the top and the track. The wind was building up and we found a sheltered spot for a snack (the bagel that we didn't have for breakfast). We then started the descent and said goodbye to the view of An Teallach, which has been with us since then. It was still kind of boggy but at least it was fast going and we soon reached the road. We had internet there and managed to book a room at the youth hostel in Ullapool. We then crossed the road, followed it for 750m, and then turned right. Past a gate I couldn't believe it when Paul said we had to head up vertical straight on a grassy / boggy slope (like it was a unique stream of water coming down). Up we went and we eventually reached higher grounds where it became more human, and we could see a path (guess what, yes, it was still bog over bog), and I didn't have to take off my shoes for stream crossings either. Reaching the top was endless and by 2pm my patience with bog was over and I started cursing in chinese, but we knew we didn't have longer to go, and finally we reached the point where the descent started and stopped for a break and to look around.

Boots on day 3

Taxi!

 

To my surprise the descent was steep but on a grassy slope and NO BOG. It was a quick one and soon we found ourselves at the bottom, got lost trying to find the way out and finally reached the gate where the Coffin Road sign was. We checked online what that was about and still can't believe that was a route for funeral processions, I mean, you spent all your life in a remote place so why bother to have your corpse carried somewhere else, I thought the best bit of it was to rest in those places? Still puzzled we kept walking along the main road to Inverlael, where we called a taxi to take us to Ullapool (no way I'd walk along that road, I still have nightmares at cycling it!).

 

It's always a pleasure to get to Ullapool, we have been there a few times and always had a great time. We got dropped at the outdoor shop to buy a new gas cylinder, then stopped for chips and mashed peas (I love peas, they were even warm!!) and finally to check in at the youth hostel, which hasn't changed at all since last time we were there 9 years ago.

The main change in Ullapool was the promenade which has been redone, also to accommodate 150m of cycling path. That got me fuming, you let people cycle on that main road which is close to suicide and then build that thing that is good to anyone? You even what a thank you? Apart from that we had a lovely stay, ate like pigs, dried our boots and washed our clothes. We were planning to walk 2 more days, but we got 2 news: 1) The Oykel Bridge hotel was closing that very day 2) There was a yellow warning for rain. That made for an easy choice: we go back home!

Really?

It's a shame as we would have loved to keep going, but then we know we will be back again and starting from Ullapool will be easier than from some other place. We had a great time, many laughs and no regrets. I still can't believe that places like those exists and I really look forward to go back and see more. 

Back in Edinburgh Paul felt the urge to go and see The Monarch of the Glen: