Hiking in Valle d'Aosta - July 2023

 

This will be remembered as one of the best hiking trips we did. I don't even know why is not more popular (I hope it will never be...), as the abundance of wildlife and stunning places should place it high up together with the TMB and Dolomites. The route is given in 14 days, but we couldn't be bothered to sleep in Rifugi and add the volume of the sleeping bag to the rucksack so we planned it in 5 (ending in Cogne), with a day off in the middle. It's definitely doable but you need to get good weather and early July was probably too early (we did get the random patches of snow and had to miss a day for ice). We used running shoes and we were happy with the choice.

 https://www.lovevda.it/en/sport/trekking/alte-vie-trails/alta_via_2

The start was the usual mess of public transports to get to the start. We had a late flight on Friday evening (delayed by one hour) and got to Geneva at 10pm. Somehow we still managed to check in at the usual Hotel Central before 11pm, as spaced out as ever. 

Can't wait to leave this room

The only caffe we found open in Geneva, at 8am!!

 

Our stay there was short (thank goodness) as we had to catch the 8.25am Flixbus to Courmayeur. We didn't have a good experience with Flixbus before and this confirmed we will never use it again unless we really really have no other choice. The bus was one hour late, with no updates, and the driver the rudest ever. We passed through Chamonix and the Mont Blanc tunnel, after which he stopped for 1/2h having an argument with the co-driver...20min to Courmayeur. We eventually got there 2h later. The bus was going to Pesaro, I think they are still around.

The Mont Blanc Tunnell (11 km long)

Passing by Chamonix

Once in Courmayeur we had a nice lunch of pasta and polenta and went to check in at Hotel Ottoz Meublé in the Dolonne area, chosen to shorten the long first stage by 15 min...then we found out that they run free shuttles to help reduce driving (pity that the bus is mostly used by hikers on the TMB and everyone who has a car uses it...). We knew we had a long first day, and we already walked that bit when we did the TMB, so we decided to cut it a bit shorter by using the bus to Val Veny. This way we had to walk from the hotel back to town but oh well.

Last time we where in Courmayeur in 2016 we ate the best pizza ever at the pizzeria Tunnel and couldn't wait to eat there again. Unfortunately things have changed a lot since there and it was fully booked, boooo. We ended up in another one which charged us 44 euro for the shitiest thing ever. The start was not great but it definitely got better!

 
Day 1 - Courmayeur to La Thuile - 23km and 962m

After so much wondering around I couldn't wait to get started and get lost in the mountains, far away from traffic and people. We had a quick breakfast, I packed the rucksack to its full capacity (3 focaccias and 4 massive apples, you never know where you will find food again...) and we headed to the bus station for the shuttle to Visailles. The bus was packed full, with more people getting in at each stop. 

 

We set off at 8.45am on a steep road, with a procession of people on the TMB heading to Rifugio Elisabetta. These few km were shared with the Alta Via 2 (AV2) trail (nobody heard of the AV2...). The sky was dark and cloudy but no rain was forecasted, and it did add drama to the view of the glaciers around, truly a beautiful part of the world.

We crossed a stream and suddenly all the people disappeared and were replaced by marmots, best moment ever! With patches of snow and clouds the views were getting better and better, it reminded me of the walks we did in Colorado. The path eventually started climbing steeply up to our first pass - Col des Chavannes, at 2603m. We eventually got to what I still think was the most scary patch of snow of all the walk, a traverse on really steep ground. I was thankful we did the winter walking skill course as I learned way more than I think I did, but it was still quiet terrifying... After that it was a walk in the park. The views from the top were sublime and we also found a couple of curious Chamonix wondering around.

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife all over the walk is very tame and used to people (not that there were many around). It was chilly and windy up there but we had to stop to take in the place, and where we were. I could hardly believe that the holiday had really started! 

 

We started the very long descent on a large track, and met a few couple of cyclists heading to the pass. The first one, elderly, were really hard core (they didn't even have an e-bike), then we found a couple of youngsters on e-bikes who were struggling on a patch of snow. We helped them out and got the best action picture of the trip (...what's going on there??).

 

 

 

The more we descended the hotter it became, like pure melting by the time we reached La Thuile after dropping 1200m of elevation. We checked in the Hotel Coeur du Village which was really pretty and friendly, and went to check out town. We found the best mini supermarket ever, of all the villages in the valleys we went through. Paul got ice cream number 1, and slept sound at the sound of the roaring river (there is always a river!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 2 - La Thuile to Planaval - 29km and 2465m

Today it will be remembered for a long time. It was long, epic, challenging and at times closer to type 3 fun. At some stage I wondered if 03 July 2023 would be the day on my tomb...

Little did we know when we left the cozy hotel what the day had in store for us. It started gently at 8.15am on the road out of town, past the industrial bit and finally in the forest up to a hamlet called La Jeux.

 

The Tor de Geants is via the Alta Via 1 and 2...hats off!

 

 

 

It was a freezing morning but we soon warmed up on the steep ascent along the waterfalls, and it would just get warmer. The roaring power of the water coming down was so strong that made me shiver. The path so far had always been impeccable and that gave us a lot of confidence. No matter how steep or fucked up it would lead us, it was always laid out in a way that made us feel safe. Hats off to whoever worked on it, I've genuinely never been on a more perfect one ( can we have them to lay out the cycling infrastructure in Edinburgh??)

 

We climbed until we passed the tree line, up up up on a steep path that brought us to Rifugio Deffeyes, at 2500m. We were making good time as we got there at 11.15am, so we stopped and got a delicious and filling slice of crostata and me a coke. I'm so glad we did as it fuelled us up for the surprise bit. We were sitting outside on a bench, in the sunshine and surrounded by snowy peaks, it was so peaceful and beautiful that it was hard to leave, but we knew it would be a long day with 2 passes and left at 11.30.

 

 

 

 

Things started to degenerate from there on...I'm not entirely sure what happened, as I knew we were heading to Colle Alto, but somehow we went on the path to Colle di Planaval, on a different valley altogether. There were many snowy patches, and at the Rifugio I was told another guy was heading the same way, so I was surprised I was not seeing his steps in the snow. We kept going for a good hour and reached a point where we could see Glacier Rutior, stunning. At that stage Paul checked the Garmin and said we were off route, and me I thought by 10 meters, but when we checked and see where we were supposed to be I started to panic as we could not really afford a detour in such a long stage. We basically run back to the same Rifugio in 1/2 hour (1pm), and ended up adding 4km and 1h 30min to the day. I was so pissed off at both of us that I swore in Chinese for a good while.

We accidentally ended up going on the Red path instead of the yellow one...ops!

Heading towards the wrong Pass

 

 

 

 

 

Thankfully the ascent to the right Col sucked up a bit of my bad energy. There was nothing we could do but keep going and look after ourselves. At least the weather was good and our legs too, and we got to see a beautiful glacier.

The sign from the hotel gave 1h 30min to the right Col and that lifted a bit the mood, as we are normally much faster than the timing in the signs in the ascents. The climb itself was firstly gradual along a cirque and very nice, then it started steep in the rocks with the occasional snow patch. I was worried the afternoon heat would melt the snow and make us sink but we made it just fine. From a distance we could see the Tibetan flags on the top, against a blue sky, which put a smile on our faces.

We knew we couldn't waste more time but stopped on the top for a quick snack. A bit of an uncomfortable spot as it was narrow, rocky and steep on both sides, but it was a beautiful view, we felt in heaven even if slightly terrified.

1h 30'' later...on the right path

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was 2pm and the sign gave 1h30" to the bottom, Promod, from where we would start next climb. It definitely took all that time as it was mostly on a bolder field that required extra care and broke our legs. It felt endless and by the time we dropped the 800m, knowing we had to ascend the same elevation, it was 3.15pm and morale was below the shows. We stopped quickly for our lunch (sandwich with avocado and tomato, it was delicious but I felt like throwing up at the idea of another pass). Paul didn't tell me at the time but he hit his ankle on the descent and had a nasty and swollen cut, which would still be swollen by the end of the trip...

 

 

 

 

 

At Promod, at 3.30pm, ready for another climb to 2800m...

 

 

At 3.30pm we set off for Pass 2 thinking it would take us ages, but it was a vertical climb and in 1h we reached Col la Crosatie at 2838m. First it was an endless zig zag on a grassy steep slope, then it gave way to rocks with the occasional rope aid. We met a man coming down (the only one so far), who warned us of the strong wind on top and a lot of snow on the other side. We were kind of shitting ourselves thinking of the worse but it was not that bad at all...he didn't know where we were coming from and passed through already! The wind was indeed strong going up, but nothing extreme, and the path was so well maintained that even in the exposed bit we always felt kind of safe. Finally I turned a corner and saw the top, what a relief! It was nothing like the other either: wide and safe. The views were mind blowing, I don't remember seeing so many peaks of different shape an colours all together. It was 4.30pm, we knew the descent would be endless as we had to drop 1300m, but we knew we would make it in time for dinner. I also got mobile signal there and managed to warn the hotel that we were fine but would be late, and the stress level dropped down straight away, like us.

 

 

 

What a beautiful feeling it was to be up there, at that time, all alone, like all that splendour was just for the 2 of us to admire.

Reluctantly we started to go down, and it was nothing compared to the previous descent, it was not rocky and there was not even too much snow! We saw 2 chamois strolling around and it was all pretty much grassy terrain. We kept dropping elevation quickly and reached the river and pasture below. Our legs were sore but we had more descend to do. We reached the forest (which is always steep, the finisher!) and stopped for a bite but the numerous mosquitoes made the stop short.

 

 

 

We started to see the road but the village of Planaval only showed itself at the very end. We made it! At 7.15pm, 11h after leaving Le Thuile, we reached the Hotel, the only one in the village...I was expecting a standing ovation!! There we also met the guy who came from Le Thuile (also from Bergamo!), and when we told him, and the hotel owner, of our (mis)adventure, they all looked at us with wide eyes...

We made it!!!

 

All was soon forgotten after a shower, where I had the frickiest accident ever... can't believe I survived the ordeal of the path and I hit my right elbow against the shower door, so I couldn't move it for a couple of days and it got swollen too, eating like that was great... Anyway, we were spoiled for dinner. We got 1/2 board and ate like pigs (1. Polenta with goat cheese + berries 2. Gnocchi with tomato sauce and mozzarella 3. Mushroom flan 4. Fruit salad), the best part of it being the beer. We finished dinner and 9pm and slept sound, even if everything was sore.

 

 

 

Day 3 - Missed stage due to unpassable pass - bus to Chanavey /Rhemes-Notre- Dame

Smoking saves lives. I was outside the hotel having my pre breakfast smoke when the guy who was doing the same walk came out, and told me that he called the hotel in the other valley and they said that the Col di Finestra was unpassable due to ice on a steel slope, that even people with crampons didn't dare to do. He was given another, longer option. At breakfast we talked through the options: longer pass at higher elevation or bus. Both of us were broken, literally given Paul's ankle was still bad and my elbow swollen. Nobody had a proper map, not even the hotel owner (really???), info in internet kind of pictured it as hard going, so we bailed out, and have no regrets. Instead we walked up along the valley to Valgrisenghe, following the path we were meant to follow anyway. There we got all the maps of the area. We originally only had the Cicero guide but you do need maps, and the shop owner was super nice and we had plenty of laughs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then got the bus there down the valley to Villaneuve, where we stopped for lunch, and then took another bus to Chanavey, which we reached at 3pm in time for the check in at the best hotel of the trip, Hotel Boule de Niege. We had a huge room with balcony overlooking what I thought was the Gran Paradiso, but after 2 days I found out was the Granta Parey, it had a magnetic look...I had to get closer.

 

This square was a total mess of traffic, in 30 min we have seen it all!

 

We didn't have many expectations for the village and the hotel but it turned out that we had a great stay, the best of the trip, and we even found a small shop in Rheme where we found fruit and the best Fontina we would eat in all the trip. Dinner was also delicious and abundant, we were ready to get back on the path!

 

 

 

Day 4 - Lago di Goletta - 25km and 1100m

We originally planned a day off for today, but given we had a day off yesterday we though we should pick a walk from our Cicero guide, and it couldn't have been more perfect (I suppose I could have avoided hitting my ankle with my poles and getting a good scratch, but oh well...next time we bring plasters!).

At 7.30am we were the first at breakfast and got a croissant with so much jam in it that it was folding on its own weight. Breakfast was great and did charge us up, it kept me going until 1.30pm! There was a free shuttle going up the valley but it was a bit late, so we started walking on a pleasant path by the river up to Thumel, where the proper path started. Forest, flowers, birds, like the idyllic place but without a soul around. We left at 8.45am and at 10am we were at the start of the walk up to Rifugio Benevolo(2200m).

There were already quite a few people around, but with this perfect alpine view - meadows packed full of flowers of any colour and shape, streams and rivers coming down from every sides, and the giant mountain in front of us getting closer and closer - I couldn't stop looking around in disbelief that a place like this could actually exist (dogs are banned in the park, which explains the abundance of wildlife, thank goodness someone has a bit of brain left!).

...see the similarity!?

Cows at their morning toiletry

Fairy tale land

 

 

 

 

 

 

The walk was extremely pleasant and at 11.30am we reached the Rifugio. We didn't go inside as we wanted to push on to Lago Goletta (2700m). After a short break we kept going up the path, which was steep in places but generally very good, like no exposure whatsoever. When we got on the top, before the glacial flatty bit, we spotted a family of ibexes chilling out on a few rocks by the side of the path, can it get any better? Well, we saw an idiot in front of us who was about to throw a stone at them to get them moving for his picture. I not very politely told him what the f**k was wrong with him etc. Thankfully the ibexes were used to people (aka idiots) and just kept being cool.

 

 

 

 

Ibex family on the left

 

The last flat bit to the lake was pure glacial land: all moraine, patches of snow and the peak mirroring itself in the coldness of this quiet glacial lake. The silence was broken only by the wind (it was cold up there!), the sound of the streams and a crying eagle. We stopped in contemplation of this unworldly place for a good 20 min, we couldn't believe something so perfect could actually exist, and we were the only 2 there witnessing its existence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can it get better than this?

 

The cold was getting to us and regretfully we started the descent. The ibexes were still there, and the more we looked the more we saw. We descended a bit more and stopped for lunch at 1.30pm, eating the sandwich that we got at the hotel in Planaval. It started spitting a bit, we got on the move again following another path that bypassed the mess of people at the Rifugio. The descent was as scenic as the ascent, even though we got a downpour while on the flat path in the valley (I saw also a fox and woodpecker). We still think of this day as one of the best walks we have ever done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bye bye beautiful hotel!

 

 

Day 5 - Rhemes-Notre- Dame to Camping Grivola - 17km and 1300m

Back on the route! We had another abundant breakfast at the beautiful hotel and at 8.15am we were on the path by the river to Rheme, where we rejoined the number 2. The ascent in the forest started straight away. It was sunny and we were already melting. We were not in a rush at all as the weather was supposed to be good and we only had 1 pass to go through. We finally entered the Gran Paradiso National Park, and we soon arrived to the Rifugio Marmotte, where staff were extremely helpful. It was too early for a piece of cake but a coffee was in order.

If you wonder why wildlife is abundand

 

We sipped it slowly while enjoying the sun, and at 9.45am we kept going up a huge meadow packed with marmots. After that the rocky steep bit started. For a change there was a big French group walking up. We overtook them and slowly negotiated the loose scree and the bit with the rocks, which we actually enjoyed...we were becoming 'Pass addicts". Soon after we reached Col di Entrelor (3007m). There were 3 people there, 2 French and a British expatriate with huge rucksacks. We had a chat and were told the huge mountain with glaciers on the right was the Gran Paradiso, finally visible in all its glory. We found ourselves a spot to take in the views and the new valley, and left when the big group arrived.

 

 

Thinking: ''This is a damn good territory I have. I've done well in life"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The descent on the other side was really well graded and pleasant to walk on. We stopped frequently to take pictures and check out the beautiful and varied flowers, I fell in love with them. We left the pass at 12 and 30 min after we were down at the first lake for lunch. It was cold up there even with the sun as there was a cold wind blowing down the valley, but the sandwich never tasted better (best Fontina ever and tomato!). It was massive so we shared one and left the other for the day after.

 

My favorite flowers

 

We kept going at 1pm, waiting for the knee breaking drop which never arrived, today we were really spoiled! Instead we got even better views of the Gran Paradiso, the better the lower in the valley we went, and the meadows of flowers dancing with the wind was the cherry on the cake.

 

The abundance of flowers was mesmerising

 

We stopped for an apple break (the one bought in Courmayeur...) and the best surprise of the day came shortly after, when we passed by what we called the "marmots' playground.

 

 

 

There were marmots everywhere, not the least bothered by people, and we spotted 3 youngsters who kept playing, it even looked like they were enjoying the attention we were given them! Truly amazing.

 

Someone really likes this National Park

Contemplative marmot

I see similarities

 

 

It was a pity to leave but we were hoping to get to destination early to clean our clothes. The forest bit was quite smooth too, and I can't believe how many people of any kind we saw going up to the pass on e-bikes, MTB and even gravel bikes...a few had the look of regretting it, I would!

We reached Eaux Rousses at 3.15pm, and walked down the road an additional km to reach the camping Grivola...the worse place of all the trip, as well as the valley. In all the others they did bother to add a walking path along the valley but here there was no getting away from the road. The man at the reception was a bit creepy, and the room a bit of a shithole (paid 10 euro less than the one in Rheme, what a difference 10 euros can make!). At least we did manage to wash our clothes and we left them in the garden to try, while having a leasury afternoon checking the map. The forecasts for the day after were not great, as there was supposed to be rain at 2pm and thunderstorm at 4pm. We knew it would have been a long day to get to Cogne, and we debated for a while if we would have made it there safely. The memory of the cyclist who died hit by lightening the year before on a route we cycled the day before, reminded us that mountains will be there forever but we won't. Regretfully we decided to play safe and get to Cogne by bus, passing by Aosta so we could check out the town. I'm sure we could have made it there but oh well, sometimes things don't go as planned and that's fine too. We had a poor dinner there and couldn't wait to get away from that hotel.

 

 

Day 6 - missed stage due to bad weather - Cogne by bus

Breakfast was as poor as dinner, eaten by the side of the saddest couple ever, like I said good morning to the girl and she looked at me like she wanted to stab me...she looked at the partner with even more evil looks! We were so happy to leave that place and headed to the bus stop. First we went to Villaneuve, where we got ourselves a proper coffe at the bar. We then got on bus n. 2 to Aosta where we spent a few hours wondering around the old town, ate one arancino and granita (it was hot!), and finally got on the last bus to Cogne, driven by a very grumpy man... We reached sunny Cogne at 3pm in time for the check in at the Hotel Button d'Or, and went to our beautiful room with a huge balcony overlooking both sides of the mountains. The sun was just going but it was still hot. We went to check out the store which was overpriced and had not much. Then the rain started, and the expected thunderstorm did arrive too. I still think we could have made it but oh well, I suppose we needed a day off too. The dinner situation didn't look too great, but we found a great place, Al Tabaras, serving the best pizza with the coolest people ever. Life was good again!

Let me out of here!!

Proper coffee at the village down the valley

I was about to forget what fruit looks like

Exploring Aosta (30 min needed...)

Our balcony in the hotel in Cogne

The rain did come

 

 

 

Day 7 - Colle della Rossa circular walk - 21km and 1626m

Today we made up for yesterday. It was a late start as breakfast started at 8am, but we slept like logs and woke up at 7.35am.. In Aosta we stopped at the Montura shop and got to chat to a local man who recommended the walk up to Colle della Rossa. We found out that there were free shuttles to Valnontey, so we rushed to get the 9.05am one and in 10min we found ourselves at the start of the "Cammino Reale" up to the Rifugio Sella. As the name suggests this was used by the king when he was going on his hunting trips, it was wide and well kept. It was very humid and there were already a few people around. Me I was on fire due to the missed stage the day before and I pushed quite a lot and we overtook all of them, I should have put a stone in my rucksack...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We thought he was the only one around...

 

At 10.40am we reached Rifugio Sella, and were greeted by an ibex who was eating with nonchalce unbothered by our presence. We thought that was cool but as we looked around it was packed with ibexes and chamois! It was not too sunny nor hot, but we got a slice of cake and drinks at the Rifugio and sitted outside eating with them, we really couldn't miss this! We then walked for 20 min up the ibex trail towards a little lake, hoping to get the views of the mountains in front, but they were still all cloudy so we turned back to the Rifugio.

 

Rifugio Sella

 

 

 

 

 

We got on the trail to the Colle della Rossa (3195m), it was a beautiful and steep climb, with only a minor nasty bit. The clouds were moving fast and only occasionally we could see the giants surrounding us. There were not many people around, and when we got at about 3000m we all fell silent when a huge bird passed by below us...it was a bearded vulture!! Slowly slowly we made it to the pass at 1.30pm. It was chilly but we were sheltered from the wind so we stopped for sandwich number 1. We could see nothing but it's always rewarding to be sitting on a high pass, it gives a sense of relief, peace and satisfaction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a young couple there and we told them about the circular walk we were planning to take to go back to Cogne. It didn't take much to persuade them and in no time they run down like 2 chamois... We were much slower and took our time to negotiate the first bit of scree and snow and stones, mostly because we could see nothing and were not quite sure where we were heading... As soon as we dropped some elevation the sun came out and it all looked brighter. We were following path n. 25. That valley was way wilder than the other, we met nobody, apart from ibexes, marmots and chamois.

 

 

 

 

We stopped to share sandwich number 2, in a never ending descent. Finally we got at the junction and took the 25A to Cogne, which we could see below us. It was a nice bit in the forest and then the finisher, the usual final steep descent to get to the big meadow outside the village, which we reached at 4.30pm. Then the usual routine: apple, peach, washing and chilling out before heading for another pizza at the same place. We were there at 7pm sharp, and were sitting by a woman whom we met going up while we were heading down. It was not the first time we would meet the same people in this trip.

 

 

 

Day 8 - Alpe Money - 15km and 660m

We ended the day being way more tired than on the epic walking day. I blame the heat! It was our final day in the Gran Paradiso, and we decided to finish chapter 1 with a short walk. The sun was finally out and the clouds disappeared from the peaks. It was time to go and check out the Glaciar Money closer up.

At 9.05am we were on the same shuttle to Valnontey. This time instead of heading up, we were following the flat and wide track along the river, beautiful in the morning quietness. After 1h we got on path n. 22 heading to Alpe Money. It started to climb steeply and relentlessly. The first but was fine but when we got to a bit with ropes we started to get worried... It was not too too bad, but it was slightly exposed and a bit narrow in places. We kept going anyway and got to see the glacial close up, absolutely beautiful!

 

 

 

We were on a schedule as we were aiming to get the 2.45pm bus from Cogne, so we didn't even stop but just turned back on the way we came. There were definitely more people on the flat bit now, and the heat was really intense. We got to Valnontey at noon and stopped at a bar for a piadina with grilled vegetables, I felt spoiled! We then walked back to Cogne, got our stuff from the hotel, and headed to the bus station for bus n. 1, down to Aosta. On the bus we met the guy who worked at the pizzeria. He run there from Aosta, 27km, because he likes running. Respect!

We reached Aosta at 15.30 and had 50min to kill. The city was deserted in that heat. We headed to the pharmacy to get something for Paul's ankle (because in all our trips there is always a trip to the pharmacy!). He was given something and told he just really needed some rest...really? We then went to the huge Conad to get some cold drinks and could have walked an ultra there just to get 2 things... Back to the train station, our train was on schedule and took us to Chatillon train/bus station, where there was absolutely nothing, not even a toilet. By that stage it was 16.40 and we were in melting mode. We just sat on the ground, glad for the strong breeze, and waited for the final bus to Cervinia. At 18.40 the bus arrived, we were in 4 on it. It started going up a twisty road, and being Sunday there where hundreds and hundreds of cars coming down. I was in shock...I knew Cervinia was popular but I really didn't expect that mess, or that they allow cars up there... We finally arrived in Cervinia, and the glorious view of the Cervino and all the wall of mountains in total sunshine, still can't believe we have been so lucky!

That place stinks of money, like golf, ski, billionaire kind of people. It's the perfect example of tourism gone wrong and destroying the same thing they live on. I felt sorry for the Matterhorn who has to witness all this nonsense. We checked in the Hotel Europa after buying some food for the day after (pretty much nothing left in the overpriced Crai), we were lucky enough to find a shop selling maps still open. You always need a map! We were dead tired but still had to find a place to eat. All places looked posh and just not our kind of thing, but eventually we ended up at the Solito Posto and had a pizza, pretty much the only vegetarian thing...I don't want to eat pizza ever again in my life!! We slept very well.

Traumatised by the amount of traveling and waiting around

In Cervinia, and what a welcome!

 

 

Chapter 2 - Cervinia!

Day 1 - Route 65 (mostly) - 20km and 1200m

I woke up at 6am with a lot of energies, while Paul was still deep asleep and a pleasure to watch. The sun was shining on all the high mountains and the sky was blue with no clouds. The day before was so stressful that we went to sleep without having the time to get ready for this chapter, so I spent an hour checking the map, washing clothes and catching up with the admin. Paul eventually woke up at 7 and we went for an abundant breakfast, I got a croissant that had 1/2kg of custard in it...that filled me up for a few hours!

Cervinia is in a kind of huge amphitheater surrounded by high mountains: the wall. The obvious walk to do was the 65, which goes along at the feet of the wall. We set out at 8.15am and I was in a great mood, the weather couldn't have been better and the Cervino was showing off in all its glory. We took path 11 from the village and started climbing slowly. It then reached the 65 and from there on we were getting closer and closer to the Cervino. I couldn't take my eyes out of it and we stopped several times to take it all in. Strangely enough there was nobody around until we reached the Rifugio Duca d'Abbruzzo, but still nothing compared to what must have been the day before.

 

We stopped there for a short break and we then got on the path to Croce di Correl. The sign posting started to be a bit sporadic and we ended up following a Spanish couple (mental note: never follow the Spanish!) up some scree. At some stage I stopped as that didn't really look like a path, mostly like a suicide mission. As we turned we saw where the path was, or one of many, and finally found our way up while spotting an ibex chilling out on a rock nearby. On the way down we saw many more, and a family with 3 young walking through a patch of snow in the distance.

 

 

Back down at the Rifugio we kept going on the 65, past moraine territory and then grassy slopes with many rocks where we had our lunch break (sandwich with avocado). It was a very panoramic spot and it was hard to leave it, but the path was still long and took us down to Plateau Maison (that bit looked more like a working site, with many working vehicles that were installing snow making machines, it all looked very sad). From there we kept going to Lago Goillett. We took the path above it and finally we started the long descent back to Cervinia.

 

 

 

 

 

By the time we reached the village we were in melting stage. We visited 3 shops to get something for dinner, and to the tourist info office where we were given plenty of ideas for walks for the next few days (the guy there was impressed at how much we walked today, I thought that was a walk for moribunds, and the obvious one to do if you are there really. The Alta Via 2 must have trained us more than we realised).

Day 2 - Chamois to Cervinia via route 107 (Cervino balcony route) - 18km and 1100m

Happy birthday n.1 Paul! I couldn't have thought of a better place to spend it! but then that's me, when I asked Paul where he would have wanted to be he said "Rome"... I slept like a log again, the sun was out and not a cloud in the sky. The man at the info office told us of path 107, known as the Balconata del Cervino. We thought we would give it a go and went to get the 8.15am bus to Boissons, from where we got the 9am cable car up to a car free village called Chamois, correctly named as we saw quite a few on the way up (even a baby!). On the bus we met this youngster who was working in Cervinia but was heading down to his home (Rome!) for 3 days, for a concert. No idea how long it would take him but he looked very exited.

We set off on a very steep climb in the sun and we were really melting. After gaining 200m we got to a lake with a fountain and we put tons of water on our heads. We kept going up until we reached a col and from there the Cervino started to show, and wouldn't abandon us until the end.

 

 

 

 

From there it was all kind of up and down, and no shade whatsoever. Paul was struggling in the heat and his stomach went on strike. Thankfully a few clouds started to gather and we would get a break from the sun every now and then. At some stage we saw a royal chair up a slope, whoever put it there was a genius!

 

 

 

 

We kept going and eventually the path started to descend. We got to the Blue Lake, just outside Cervinia, and stopped for our sandwich. We found a nice patch of grass among the trees away from people and overlooking the Cervino, and there we saw a nest in a tree, with the parents regularly feeding the chicks.

 

 

Someone can nap anywhere

A well hidden nest

Is this going to be next one??

I definitely see similarities

That was a nice birthday surprise but the one that I'm sure he enjoyed even more was the massive thunderstorm that came at night, with lightening, rain falling in buckets and loud thunders, and us watching in wonder from our hotel balcony (a minute of silence for the cycling tourer we saw that day that was camping...)


Day 3 - Rifugio Teodulo - 20km and 1400m

Happy birthday n.2 Paul! The legs were starting to feel tired and the motivation was slowly fading, but this was our last full hiking day, the temperature was definitely cooler and we had to make the most of it, even if the clouds were low and the forecasts were not that great.

We set off late, after another morning thunderstorm. We were planning to go up to Rifugio Teodulo, at 3317m, and then a peak to make for a longer route. It took a while to find the path n.15 from Cervinia (we found the signposting in the village extremely poor, but they did have money to repave a huge car park...). Eventually we found it and we set off for a steep climb to Plateau Maison in pseudo sunshine. It was much chillier so we didn't sweat so much, and still have plenty of marmot sightings (even a baby!) given there was not a soul around. The more we climbed the more the clouds.

From Dr Bike to Dr Pizza...

Can anyone actually see what we have done or is it just me?

more likely...proud to be a selfish asshole?!

We reached a Capanna at 2800m and could see nothing. I proposed turning back and heading to the Rifugio d'Abbruzzo instead, but then slowly the clouds started to move and we could glimpse something so we pushed on. I'm so glad we did as what came after was the best surprise of the holiday.

All the path was a dirt road which was hard to miss, but because it kind of blended with the rest we had to pay attention to the yellow arrows. It also started to feel much cooler and for the first time we put on the fleece...and all the other layers came shortly after. As if by magic the clouds were lifting here and there, we could see the glaciers around and also where we were heading to. With the altitude the air was getting thinner and the going slower, but who cared, it was all a top show up there!

We finally made it to the Rifugio where the wind was really strong, and were not the least prepared to the view of...the Plateau Rosa glacier! What a view, we were actually looking into Switzerland!!

 

 

We stopped for a while to look around, thinking we would then go to the Rifugio for a hot drink, but the Rifugio was closed so we headed down fast to warm up. By the time we reached the Plateau Maison all the layers were removed. It was still early so we decided to follow the 65 again to make it a bit longer (we were not ready to get back to the hotel yet). We passed by the dam and then started the descent on the path 16, the shitiest of them all. We are still not sure if it was for MTB only but I doubt many people would cycle down that way.

 

 

Back to the hotel we went for a happy birthday and end of the trip pizza. The beer never tested better, but please no more pizza!

Day 4 - Farewell to the mountains - 6km and 400m

This was the end of chapter 2, and we couldn't leave without the final farewell to the Cervino (who was quite shy and hiding in clouds). We didn't want to repeat the ordeal of a hike and traveling day, so we woke up early and walked up to the 65 for a final glimpse of the glacier. It was beautiful. Fresh air, not a soul around, no rucksack. The birds were out singing already, and by the time we turned back the marmots were out too, even the youngsters who were starting to play already. I couldn't have asked for a better goodbye.

 

Back to the hotel we had our shower, last deluxe breakfast, packed and went for the 10.35am bus down to our favourite place: Chatillon... The bad news was the train strikes...it firstly looked like our train was scheduled so we bought the tickets, but by the time we reached the platform it was cancelled. We walked up to the bus station melting in the heat, got the 12.00 bus to Aosta, went to get a refund, went for lunch and then back to the train station to check the situation. The first train was at 15.40, so we sat and waited.

The train existed but it was the worse journey ever... First 3 guys were debating for a good while if to buy the ticket for Milan or not, and that after the controller told them they would not be allowed without tickets... Then the guy we saw begging in town sat in front of us, with his iPhone 14, talking loud, loud music etc. Then a rasta guy, of the super stoned and never washed guy, sat close to us too, but at least he was quiet and nice. Then another guy got on and sat in front of him. He must have been on drugs and was of the scary kind, again,with loud music on. Thankfully more normal people got on in the next stops but it was all a bit scary...when the loudspeaker went on we thought it should have said: "Trenitalia wishes you a pleasant journey not to get stabbed or robbed. And if you paid the ticket, thank you". No wonder the controller disappeared after he checked our tickets, I bet he was scared too!!

We were extremely glad to finally reach Turin, and check in the usual Hotel City Center. It was hot and I went straight to cut my hair. It was a small place and a super nice Chinese guy cut them perfectly in 20 min...and charged me 12 euros!!

Can't argue with that really...

We then went for a nice meal at a Chinese restaurant and enjoyed a post dinner walk, we really like this city!

We then had a full day to chill out, waiting for our flight at 10.45pm (delayed by an hour for a change...). W e mostly wondered around, stopping here and there for a drink in Piazza San Carlo and lunch of pasta at another square. While checking the map I found out that there was a mountain museum and it had to be seen! We walked up and spent a couple of hours checking it out. The best part was the exhibition about the Cervino, is there a more appropriate way to finish this trip??

Last time we saw the Po in Aug last year it was almost empty!

Aperitif in Piazza S Carlo (should I work overtime?)

Exposition about extinction, and what do we do?

...go to the bar.

Without destination

"If I could move, I'd go far away. I haven't yet understood what they are coming to look for up here, what do they find so seductive in coming to pay me a visit..." Cervino 2023