Friday, 8 July 2022

The Adlerweg - Austria

The “20 minutes late” trip

June 2022

 

 

 Desperate to see sunshine and feel some heath, we left on a Wednesday after work and caught the 6pm flight to Munich, which landed 20 min late. Very spaced out we then got on the first train to the East Banhof and were resigned to wait 1h for the next one to Salzburg, but it turned out also the train was 20 min late so we managed to get the previous one... The train was surprisingly packed full for a Wednesday evening at 10pm, and it didn't actually got to Salzburg. There was a bus waiting for us half way through driven by a lady, the kind that you don't want to mess with. People were getting off at random places and riding their bikes at 1pm...ok, we are really sissies in the UK! We reached a very empty Salzburg at 2pm and slowly found our way to the Hotel Adlerhof. The room was a bit claustrophobic but we slept very sound nevertheless, so sound that I woke up at 8.30am, for the first time since I was a teenager! 


Part 1: Salzburg

22 and 23 June 22

We spent a full day visiting this very pretty town, passed through the morning market and ate kilos of ripe fruit of any kind with my eyes. It was hot and sunny and we were definitely not used to this! First we wondered around the centre and then found the way up to the Fortress Hohensalzburg...always aim high! We got there drenched in sweat but the views made up for it, and we also got the tickets for the Mozart Conzert which got me very exited.









Lunch in the park, followed by a nap

This may have been better than the one we ate at the restaurant

The house of Mozart, with a Spar below. He would have been delighted!




Our room in Salzburg, thankfully we only slept there
 

We then went to lower grounds for more strolling, the compulsory ice-cream, got cherries and stopped at the square in front of the train station to eat them. The scene was a bit bizarre, and was nothing like the empty square we passed through the night before. There was some kind of contemporary art dance performance, the kind of the weird one, then a couple of police officers trying to move a drunk shouting man, a few more drunkards, schoolchildren, travellers, and Paul washing the cherries in the fountain that spits water up...unaware that there was a normal fountain 2m away. I wished the big splash would have jumped up when he was there!

After eating a disgusting pizza for dinner (mental note: never eat pizzas in Austria, not as bad as in Argentina, but really no thanks) we headed back to the Fortress via the cable car and had the best concert ever. We were in the top room, the one that was reserved for important meetings back in time, it felt intimate and warm. The windows were open to get some air in and we could see all the town below. As the concert went by, the sunset turned into evening, the violins were playing Vivaldi's Primavera, I never heard it live and it really got into my veins, is there a better way to start a holiday?










It looks as if I'm looking at a painting









Part 2: Montafon Arlberg Race (failed) and day trips from St Anton am Arlberg

24 to 26 June 22


We got on a 3h 30 min train (20 min late) to St Anton am Arlberg, where the day after Paul would have run his first 17km race, while me I signed up to the 33km one. When we got off the train it was pissing down and cold, with nobody around...we were like, mmhhh, is this an omen?? We went for a late lunch in one of the few cafes we found and had some pasta. Mine had way too much cream (metal note: don't get pasta in Austrian restaurants again). We then checked in a very nice apartment, like I really loved it, and went to pick up the dorsal. That's when things started to go badly. It turns out that Paul wasn't entitled to the pasta party (good thing as it didn't look that appetising), even if they told me they signed him up by email; he couldn't even pick up his dorsal as that was in Silbertal (never read this anywhere); the bus ticket that I bought online was only redeemable with a bar code in the mobile, which I was not planning on carrying since there was no mandatory equipment (which is why I picked this race); but the main surprise came when I opened the goodie bag back home. No sticker with my number to stick on the drop in bag (how am I supposed to find my bag again? And would you like me to put the mobile there??) and, cherry on the cake, a dead pig, and I'm vegetarian. I take they don't get many Vegans and Muslims running there either. I had no much confidence in the organisation at that stage and while eating our home cooked pasta (thanks Barilla!) I was wondering if it was a good idea running it at all, but we decided to sleep on it as night brings the best advice.


Picking up the dorsal in pissing rain


WT actual F?

Our beautiful apartment

We woke up with glorious sunshine, but Paul was sick, like he had fever... It turns out that the pharmacy opened at 8am, and my race started at 8am, race gone! I was there at 8am sharp, got the medicines, left him sleeping, and got to the start line (8.20am) before the marathon started at 8.30am. My plan was to do ½ route and come back the same way by following the marks. I was gutted as the route was all runnable and actually very beautiful, and I'm sure I could have made a decent time even if I haven't trained much, but frankly I'm glad I didn't race it as I'm still so pissed off at the dead pig.







 

The day after (Sunday), Paul was was still knocked off . Having spent an awful night he was finally sleeping, so I leaf him in peace and sneaked out early to go up to the Darmstadter Hutte (2384m) in another glorious sunny day. I really felt sorry for him as it was a very pretty walk with some fine views on high mountains, alpine lakes, flowers and even a glacier at the top. It started off steeply and went up with a more human gradient after the first push. I was feeling really well and in 3h I was in the Hutte, and called Paul to make sure he was alive... 















I was back at 12.30 in time for lunch, and the afternoon was spent with Paul feeding on medicines, and me getting drunk to forget... The day after we would have started the Adlerweg and I was not really sure he would make it so we went through the options, and again decided to see how he was when he woke up the next day.

Paul feeding on drugs

Me getting drunk (= half bottle) to forget...


View from the balcony

We had some sparrow's chicks nesting in the roof above

Adlerweg Way Day 1 – St Anton am Arlberg to Steeg - 25km

27 June 22


Paul slept like a log, but when I woke up at 6am he said he still needed to sleep, which I took as “we stay here all week”. At 7am he showed up dressed and springy and said he was ready to go. I was a bit sceptical and apprehensive as I knew the walk was long and there was some climbing, with uncertain terrain, but he was adamant and so off we went.

Me and Dan

It was still beautifully sunny and warm, and I haven't realised that it was the first time that Paul actually saw the mountains! He was like “look, a tree! Look, a mountain!” and so on... As soon as we got out of the village the path got steep, which means we were gaining elevation quickly and could see the range of mountains on the other side. Paul was fine (his blood had more drugs than red cells...) so we kept going through woods packed with birds (woodpeckers!) and cows, and then high pastures packed with flowers of any kind, shapes and colours.










We stared to see a flag, then the Hutte and then some gigantic beauties behind it, honest it was stunning up there, I would never have thought it would have been so scenic from the bottom. 













 

 



We reached the Leutkircher Hutte (2251m) at 10.30am dreaming of apfel strudel, but they just started baking it! We replaced it with ½ l of some concentrated juice, that went down equally well. There was a nice Hungarian couple running it and quite a few people hanging around (we saw nobody until then, where were they coming from??) and at 11am we started the loooooong descent. We passed through an immense meadow with so many flowers dancing with the wind, and the background of rocky mountains, and I decided that my ashes will have to be spread there, that's what paradise looks like in my dreams.












We started the steep descent and at the heath increased gradually, thankfully we reached the woody altitudes soon and got sheltered in the shade of a tree for our avocado and tomato bocadillo, which was actually very nice despite being 3 days old...





















We kept going down, and eventually got on a gravel road which lasted forever. It was HOT! Not many people around even when we reached the first hamlet where to our joy we found a fountain. I must have drunk a litre of water and that restored my energies. Paul was still copying (drugs over drugs..). From there we got on a paved road, but there were not many cars either, don't think this route is very touristy, certainly not for foreigners as we have met none all way around, which is probably why most people don't speak any English there. We left the road to get on the last path down a steep forest until we finally reached our final destination at 3pm. The first shop we saw was a bakery, and we damn got the last 2 slices of apfel strudel which never tasted better! Paul was definitely looking better after eating it.





 



 


That night we got to view the best programme ever: a massive thunderstorm with lightening and thunders, I haven't seen that in a long while!

 

Day 2 – Steeg to Häselgehr - 20km flat

28 June 22


Today didn't look too promising. To avoid the black marked high route, we had to stay in lower grounds in the valley. It was a mix of paved cycling lanes and paths all the way along the river. We took it super extra easy, met a local guy who was guiding 4 ladies and he was the copy of Ryan Van Duzer, super fit and enthusiastic and never stopped talking, it was actually quite nice to have a chat with him!









Badger sett


We reached the village of Bach at 12.03, and the Spar closed at 12, booooh! At that stage it started raining so we got in a restaurant for a hot soup and a kaiser brot, which we thought was a kind of cheese sandwich. It turns out it was a thin slice of bread and ½ kg of any different kind of cheese (mental note: never ever order that stuff again). It took a while to finish that thing and by the end my stomach was a bit revolted, but walking always helps... It was still raining, and quite cold, so I put on the waterproof gear and off we went. It stopped shortly after but the sky was black and I was so glad we were not in higher paths as it would have been awful, at the end it worked out fine.

We reached our final destination at 3.30pm and checked in the Gasthof Sonne, the only place in miles, when it started to pour down again. The place was a bit spooky, like old and desolate, and it badly smelt of dump, and the owner was a bit on the weird side too. After our culinary experiences, and the look of the owner and the place, we got on the bus to the village we passed before and stocked up food there for a “in the room service”, and spent the night in the dump room waiting for the sunshine, and getting mentally ready for a long day to come.








Day 3 – Häselgehr to Feirnsteinsee Schloss - 36km

29June 22

The weather was not that great when we woke up, and some rain was forecasted too, but we had no alternative than to walk 36km to get to the other side of the mountains. We had breakfast at 8am sharp and at 8.30am we were on the go with a brisk pace. First we had 3km on the flat ground again, then finally we said goodbye to it, but not before going through a path blocked by forestry works. Nobody stopped us so we discretely passed the barrier and with absolute nonchalance reached the other side. We started going up on a gravel road, which after a while disappeared to give space to a path, that got eaten by the vegetation. At first it was fine as it was in the forest, but then it got steep / exposed and I really had no clue were I was putting my feet. On the positive side the bridge that we were not sure if it was there, was there! The tricky bit lasted a bit longer but suddenly it became a gravel road again, such a relief as we were conscious of time and that km took a lot of it!

At 11am we stopped for a sandwich (my rucksack mostly contained food) and to check the progress. We were a bit behind schedule but we knew we would cross the road soon, which would mark km 13 and after which the true path started. We left soon after, passed another bridge and a very deep gorge, and finally got on the road. Crossed it and got on the path to the Hanhutte which was signed as a 2h 30min walk. The sun finally came out and it was hot again. The path was actually very nice to walk, and alternated steep sections and flattish ones. We then reached the pastures and the farmer hut where there was a fountain, which was good as we only carried 1l of water each.






















From there it was a steep climb up to the Hutte, surrounded by cows, horses, and beautiful views. Finally at 2pm we reached the Hutte, which was huge and very posh! Although we met nobody when walking, there were a few people there, where are they coming from?? Paul got something to drink, then we ate the sandwiches I made the night before, and while I was eating there was so much action and panic. I had no clue what was happening, and couldn't even be the least concerned. It turns out the helicopter was due to arrive at 2pm (but it never showed up for a good hour...strangely it was not only 20 min late).












It was cold and we put on all the layers, started the climb to Pass number 1 and were greeted by a cute marmot who was just marmoting around, not bothered by our presence. Getting to a Pass is always good, especially if it's an easy one. Pass number 2 however looked a bit more daunting...there was a bit of scree to go through, and then it just went up vertical in a super steep and grassy / overgrown / zig zag path. I was praying all the saints that the descent on the other side would not be as bad! Thankfully it wasn't.


Reaching the second and highest pass was a big relief as it meant it was just a long way down from there. We stopped 5 min to contemplate the views, aware this was the last high place we would be, and then slowly slowly we started to negotiate the rocky descent. The first 4km were dreadful, rocky, muddy and slippery by the amount of sheep that used it. It took us 1h 30 min to cover those 4km and were were over the moon when we got to the bottom and reached the gravel road, where we had a good break to recharge the energies for the last 9km. At that stage we started to look like zombies but we kept on the brisk pace, mostly because we wanted to get to destination before the restaurant closed. Thankfully after the first 2km it started to go down very steeply, and the easy way to go down in those roads is basically running. The view of a chamois helped break the monotony of those last few ks, but once we reached the lower flatty forest and the signs to the Schloss, it started to feel like a proper countdown.





















Paul attacked by fierce chickens





The Schloss finally!!!

 

Finally, at 6.42am, after 10h walking up and down, we made it to the Schloss, and were greeted with a glass of Prosecco. Now, this is a damn good welcome! We checked in and went for a superb meal, we both got a rosti and 1kg of veggies of any kind, and of course a radler to wash it down. We can say that we definitely lived that day to the full, and slept like logs in our room with the sound of the nearby river. 

 



Would you like a glass of Prosecco? Oh well, it would be unpolite to say no...






Our room was 5 min walk from the castle, so we mush have walked 2 more ks, but it was worth it.


Day 4– Feirnsteinsee Schloss to Ehrwald – 16km

30 June 22

After the epic day yesterday, today it was more on the quiet / boring side. No high passes, just a long walk in gravel roads mostly in woody places. We planned a short day as we thought we would have needed some recovery time, but we both felt very well with no particular pains, just some accumulated tiredness. I find hard days way more rewarding and worth the pain...

We knew it was a short day so we left the Schloss at 9.30am heading to the FernPass, and met many cyclists on the way as this was a quite popular route along the Via Augusta. The sun was still out and it was hot, but we were mostly in the woods. At lunch time we stopped at the only lake around and decided to get a good break there. We took off the shoes, got our cheese sandwiches out (2 days old) and got an unexpected visit by some youngster ducks who got a liking on Paul's feet... Their mum was pleased to be getting a break from them. We were wondering what the animal of the day would be!





















After an hour we got bored, said goodbye to the ducks and got back on the path in the forest, until we emerged in a village where suddenly we met a group of lamas, children, someone on a recumbent bike, and people all at the same time. We were now in domestic territory and on a paved path and in the afternoon heath be dragged our sore legs to the final destination. We were staying in a very nice hotel and got exited as we could finally washed all our toxic clothes and hang them on the balcony. As soon as we did that the cloud covered the sky and from then on it was thunders, lightening and a lot of rain, good stuff we were cosy inside (and there was heating in the toilet to dry the clothes).




Day 5– Ehrwald to Leutasch (then train to Innsbruck)– 20km

1 July 2022

This was our last day on the Adlerweg. We started it with a decent breakfast in a desert hotel, followed by a climb on a big gravel road up to a Pass at 1600m. It was all covered in clouds and we could see nothing, but as we descended it kind of improved, although we never got to see any mountain... The going was a bit boring but at least we reached the village at 1pm, and sit at the bus stop waiting for the 2.14pm bus. It was very cold and we had to wear all the clothes, and I regretted not having more, can't believe just the day after I was boiling. It started pouring down but thankfully the bus was in time (for once) and it was warm and cosy. It got us to a train station where we got on a delayed train heading to Innsbruck. We have been there before when cycling through the Alps and really enjoyed this town. It kept raining until 6pm, and when we went out I remembered why I liked this place so much. The amount of people around, all of different age, background and style, really gives a great vibe to this place. There were musicians around, a speaker with swing music (where a whole family: dad, mum and 2 children), were dancing like crazy without giving an absolute shit of what anybody was thinking of them (I admired them so much as they were having a lot of fun) and a circus! Where else can you find this combination within a kilometre squared??











Day 6– Innsbruck Norkette Seegrube!

2 July 2022


There was no way I would be in Innsbruck without the vertical climb to the Seegrube. When we woke up it was all cloudy but we headed off anyway. The path has been improved since last time we were there (not the signposting though), and it felt much shorter than last time too, but not less steep. They added a set of 100+ stairs, more of a ladder really, I just loved it! By the time we got on the top it was full sunshine, time for a strudel! We went on the Panorama trail and then slowly got down on the gravel road, with so many cyclists going up, of any age.

No better way to start the day than a damn good climb















The afternoon was spent strolling around, and with a stop at the ice cream shop for a huge coppa di gelato, thinking at the one we got in Caorle when we finished the traverse of the Alps.










Vienna

3 and 4 July 2022


I had big expectations for Vienna, but frankly I haven't liked it at all. The roads are way to big, it's not made for walking, it's flat with not even a far away sight of mountains, the centre is packed full of people, and I just can't see any charm in it. We walked 25km but really couldn't find any corner of beauty, I'm definitely meant to be in sight of mountains...

The highlight was the visit to the Belvedere Museum to see Klimt's Kiss. Normally I can't find much difference in between a picture and the true thing, but gosh this one is so worth to see live, with all the glittering of the metals used, and it just conveys a sense of peace and beauty. Paul particularly enjoyed the “Dog with the sausages”.

Bye bye Innsbruck

Bye bye Norkette :(





View from our apartment





The dog with the sausage - Paul's favourite


 

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