We planned to cycle this route in May, but due to Coronavirus it has been postponed...good stuff as back then it was -13 degrees and slightly stormy.
We have been cycling along the West Coast twice already, and this time we opted for The Great North Trail, an off-road route designed by Cycling UK which would bring us to astonishing landscapes and more important away from cars.
Planning a trip up North always requires a level of optimism and craziness. Even though the weather has been like the West Coast itself, full of ups and downs, we have been rewarded with a few beautiful days and overall it was worth it.
Day 1 – Newtonmore to Fort Augustus – 54 km, 800m up
25 September 2020
We had an early start and got on the 6.52am train to Newtonmore. The train was empty, we heard talks of putting in special carriages for bikes on trains to Inverness, but actually the one we were on had the toilet converted in a 2 bikes space (hook style) which only fitted one bike...come on Scotrail, that's all you can do?
We got off in Newtonmore at 9.35am and it was cold with a chill wind from the North which forced me to wear scarf and 2 pairs of winter gloves, but luckily no rain yet.
Off we went towards the infamous Corrieyarick Pass. Paul has planned to cycle it for quite a while and finally the moment came. Me I didn't really care too much, I was just glad to be out cycling in the Highlands and I knew I had to deserve the cake I brought, which didn't last long...
We first followed the NCN 7 South, and after a few km a secondary road to Laggan, passing through a sign saying we reached the centre of Scotland. This was all known territory, and most important, it was paved. In Laggan we turned left on a tiny road which brought us into pure wilderness, all the way up to the Bothy from where the gravel road would start. I had no clue how long the gravel would last, but I was very pleased that I managed to cycle 32k on comfy smooth pavement...
From there it was a gravel road of mostly rocky conditions, which started flattish and then it turned in a series of zig zags to the top. That bit was uncycleble to my standards, but I'm glad I only had to push the bike for 3k. Given its reputation, I honestly thought it would have been much more difficult to get up there.
We got a few showers and it was cold but I was so happy to be up there surrounded by beautiful lonely wild views. We had our delicious cake at 11am and it powered us up all the way to the end, and going down the other side was cyclable even to my standards, a bit rocky but I never had to push the bike on that side.
Strangely
we met nobody all the way though, apart from a couple of hikers going
up to the Pass, good luck to them, it must have been a very long walk
that day!
A few more km and we started to see Fort Augustus, civilization, better still, cafes where we can get a hot soup!
It was a fast descent and we ended up in some private property, welcomed by Mr Stag and his Harem of 15 lady deer. We then got on a road, after stuffing our faces with wild berries, and in no time we were in the cute village on the shores of Loch Ness. It was so weird to suddenly find ourselves surrounded by tourists and cars, quite a contrast!
It was only 2.45pm and our check in was not before 4pm, so that we went to The Moorings for a hot soup, how badly I needed something hot!!
At 4pm sharp we were checking in at the King's Inn, and Paul was so cold he went straight, and dressed, below the bed duvet. His shoes were soaked after all the stream crossings, I wonder why mine weren't though... :)
After
a hot shower we went for a walk to the lake and to the same
restaurant for dinner (finally the sun came out!), aware that this would be the last village we
would pass through until Durness. In the Londis we bought a cake and
extra supplies, thinking we would starve up North. It turns out the
cake traveled all the way with me and was brought as a souvenir to
Paul's Mum. I'm sure it acquired some Highland flavor along the way!
Day 2 – Fort Augustus to Garve – 97km and 1245m up
26 September 2020
Today it was hard, by km 2 I realised I was really f****d up and still can't believe I reached the day destination.
It all started with a luxurious breakfast in Fort Augustus, which consisted of a series of trays of food delivered to our room, I honestly thought I was a queen. The lady running it was like a proper granny, making sure we were well-fed for the day ahead, so sweet!
We set off at 8.20am passing through the centre of town, and saying goodbye to civilization. After 1k we turned left up a road, that then turned in top quality gravel up to Pass number 1, slowly gaining elevation and some good views with it.
The descent was rocky but short, and in no time we reached the bottom, crossed the main road, and then started the climb to the second Pass, back on gravel. I soon realised that this would have taken ages to get through, it was way too steep and rocky for me to cycle, so that it was pretty much a push the bike to the top, with occasional short stretches of cyclable material...I was knackered! I kept checking both the odometer and the watch, and realised that if it was all like this we were way behind the average to complete a 95k day, and we also got a few showers... My morale was below my shoes, but there was only one way to get through that, the only way forward so that slowly slowly we made it to the top.
The other side was not really a descent, more of an up and down road, thankfully cyclable, enjoyable and fast. After 27km of hell, at 11.30am, we finally reached a village called Mich. From there it was a quiet and fast B road on tarmac up to Canich, where we stopped to recompose ourselves and figure out where we were. We were planning to get a hot coffee at the Hotel, where we stopped during the West Coast 2 trip / Glen Affric years before. Unfortunately the hotel was closed, but the Spar was not. I was not even hungry, but Paul forced me to get some food and a gnammy apple pastry with hot chocolate. This stop would turn out to be a life saver, as we stocked so much food and sandwiches which would feed us all the way to Durness (glad I brought 2 panniers as one was just for food).
We considered bailing out and get the train in Beauly, but the only train there was at 6pm. We then checked the profile for the rest of the route and it didn't look too bad, the day was still youngish and I started to feel a bit better, like I could make it.
At 12.45 we were finally ready to tackle part B of the day and put some km in our legs (so far we had 37km...). The next 10k were fast on a flat and well paved road. We then got to the junction where we were supposed to turn and get on gravel again for the 3 pass (which by the look of it was a clone of Pass 2). The Baby Seal must have heard my prayers, as at the entry gate there was a sign saying the bit we had to pass was closed for some works of Scottish Water. Oh yes, road it is! This was a blessing from the sky as there was no way I would have made it otherwise. Paul was not too happy but there was no other option, so that we kept cycling to Beauly. The irony of it all is that now we passed through quite a few big stores but were stuck with the tuna sandwich we got in the little Spar, which would not be consumed for 2 more days...
In Beauly we got on the A road to Ullapool after lighting up a few candles to different gods. It was not too busy after all, but being narrow, with fast traffic and with all the turns, it's something we don't particularly look forward. Somehow we survived and got out of it at Contin, where we got on another gravel road. This one started as an idyllic route in the forest, perfectly smooth and graded, then half-way through I have no idea what happened as it turned in a messy, rocky, washed out, reclaimed by nature path. I managed to cycle it all but the coursing was coming out of my mouth like water from a fountain. On the other hand there was the relief to know that we basically made it, and with the sunshine in our faces we approached it slowly, still glad to be out and about.
At
4.45pm we reached Silverbridge Lodge, a B&B located close to
Garve, basically in the middle of nowhere. The excitement was not
over though, as the only place we could get dinner was at the
Aultguish Inn, 8 miles up the A road to Ullapool. The B&B owner
gave us a lift up, and told us the Hotel people would bring us down.
Pity that they didn't know and they were busy serving people...
Luckily the couple eating next to us were driving down our way and we
managed to hitch a lift. Well, the food was really good so that it was worth the adventure!
That night I slept very well.
Day 3 – Garve to Achness Hotel – 69km and 633m up
27 September 2020
We woke up with -1 degree and frost everywhere, glad we were not camping! After a delicious breakfast (we were the only people in the B&B), at 8.30am we set off wearing everything we could find and headed up the A Road to Ullapool for 9km. It was Sunday morning so that the traffic was not too bad, and the frost on the hills and fields just added extra beauty to what was already a beautiful landscape.
By the time we reached our junction to the unknown, the sum was out and we slowly started to warm up. What was to follow was one of the most beautiful glens I have ever cycled thorough. We had to gain our right of passage by passing through a group of very untamed Highlands cows, with calves...and after reading the story of the Carnethy runner being attacked by a cow gosh we were careful not to piss them off!
The gravel road was pretty much all in good conditions and it started climbing gradually, with the glen opening to new valleys and hills. It was truly a pleasure to cycle there, and again there was not a soul around.
By km 22 we reached the highest point and from there it was a long descent to the Alladele estate, which has a rewilding project to restore the Highlands ecosystem, and they hope to reintroduce wolves. I wish them all the best.
It was 11am and we were not in a rush as we knew it would be a short day, and just stopped for a snack and to take in the views.
The more we descended the more human it became, until we reached the road and then turned left heading to the unknown again. We first passed through Croick, which was once a village of which pretty much only the little church survived. It was midday and sunny and we stopped for lunch there (bread bought in the Spar the day before with some cheese, delicious!). We sat there for a bit enjoying the peace of the place, and before leaving we found the story of the place written on a stone...quite sad really dating back to the Clearance of Glencalvie in 1845, when the local farmers were evicted to make space for sheep, and stayed outside that church as they could not dare staying in it thinking it would profane the place. I should never forget how lucky I'm.
During this trip I reconciled to the fact that every day there is a walking quota to fill, and now it was my moment. After the Church, the road turned into gravel, at first of decent conditions and then suddenly it turned into a boggy mess of no proportion. I'm not a big fan of boggy ground, and I still keep some dignity in that I refuse to get dirty and wet, so that it was another push the bike bit for us. Surprisingly we met another couple of bike packers coming the other way, from Ullapool...they route description made me very happy as I knew we wouldn't go that way...
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| Don't talk to me, I'm upset! |
Luckily it was only 10k of that, and after passing the top things started to improve as that thing turned into something cyclable and finally tarmac for the last 10k. Berry picking along the way helped us waste some time, and finally at 3.30pm we reached the Achness Hotel, truly located in the middle of nowhere...at least they serve food here so that no need to hitch-hike!
Day 4 – Achness Hotel to Oversgaig Hotel – 48km and 300m up
28 September 2020
Today it didn't really go according to plans. The sun left us and gave room to rain, so that we abandoned the original off-road route, with the option to climb Ben More of Assynt in the middle, and decided to play it safe and follow the road and visit the Falls of Shin, with possibility of spotting the salmons going up the falls. We didn't see any salmon but a cure red squirrel hugging his tree instead. We had a walk along the paths around the visitor centre and grabbed a hot chocolate when it opened at midday (take away only sigh) and we finally ate the tuna sandwich bought 2 days before in the Spar. It was not much of an eventful morning but everything considered we made the most of the bad weather.
We had to waste a lot of time as it was a short one and check in wasn't before 4.30pm, so that we stopped every time we could and took it really really slowly. We kept going to Lairg and the sun finally came out. We stopped at The Pier for a hot soup, then visited the Spar, and finally started cycling the last 26k along Loch Shin towards the Overscaig Hotel, stopping every time we could.
The emails from Kevin, the owner of the hotel, were not too warm and we did make sure not to arrive before 4.30pm. We had the feeling something was not quite right with him and we were not wrong after all. With the premise that we paid £140 for the night, and for that price the least we expect is some proper welcome, it turned out our welcome was something like “you dirty cyclists take off your shoes”. The guy obviously had a bad season and was quite stressed out with all the coronavirus related headaches he had to swallow, and obviously he was not really meant for running an hotel, but all his aggressivity was almost funny as he left us really speechless! At the question “what time do you what breakfast?” and me “7.30?” he reacted like “Nooooooooo” Thankfully after seeing we were not complete assholes he chilled out a bit and became more chatty...it was worth staying there just for the character!! In fairness the room was good too and had an amazing view of the loch, and dinner was really abundant. I promise I'll never eat again a sticky toffee pudding in my life!!!
Apart from aborting the original plan, the other regret of the day is that we missed the Aurora Borealis, pretty much everyone else saw it that night in the North but our sky was covered...boooooo, when it's not the day, it's just not the day.
Day 5 – Oversgaig Hotel to Durness – 69km and 775m up + Ben Hope
29 September 2020
Today we definitely made it up for the day before, honest one of the best day of my life! I woke up and from the room window I saw 3 deer running to the loch, that's a nice way to start the day I thought, with a run I mean.
After the amount of food eaten the day before, I was in dire need of burning it, and with sunny forecasts for the day there was no time to waste.
We had breakfast at 7.45am sharp to avoid pissing off Kevin (he was pleased). Gladly we left the hotel and followed the paved road until the end of Loch Shin (and saw an otter in the lake).
Otter!
From there we passed a gate to an off-road track and with it the door to happiness. There are no words to describe how stunning and peaceful were the places it leads to, not even the pictures make them justice.
It started climbing gradually and it was all pretty much cyclable, like enjoyable, then once we reached the top it opened up and we could see just wild places as the eye could see, and also Ben Hope, the Northern Munroe we would climb later on. By that stage I also managed to warm up and was just wearing a base layer, unreal!
We cycled the 32km to the start of the path to Ben Hope and it was not even 11am. Leg 1 had been absolutely amazing and we thought it couldn't be matched, but we were wrong! We were a bit pushed with time, and the walkhighlands website gave the trek in 4 to6h so that we quickly rearranged our bags and started going up, more like running up really... It was boggy to start off with and then ½ way through it got a bit more rocky. The thing is that you can't see the top until we reached it, so that the last bit felt like walking on a ball. It took us 1h 10min to reach the top, and the surprise up there was to see a lady deer running, followed shortly after by the stag after her... things I would never think of seeing on top of a hill...
Up there is was freezing but the 360 degrees views breathtaking. We couldn't linger for long as it was really cold and after a few pictures we turned down to warmer grounds. Amazing, just amazing.
Stag running in the background
Fording the "stream"
We then started climbing up for 7km and it felt endless, for the first time during this trip I was sweating, a feeling which would not last long! The other side was steep and stony but short, and soon we reached the North Coast 500 to Durness. Reaching the tarmac was a mixed pleasure, as it's obviously more pleasant to cycle on, but then you have to deal with a single lane road with passing spaces and loads of cars and camper vans... The views were pretty indeed but I promise that's the last time I cycle that route. It was a 25k cycle to Durness, we made it to the Northern point and felt pretty satisfied with ourselves.
Day 6 – Durness – (Failed Cape Wrath expedition)
30 September 2020
We spent 2 days in Durness at the Wild Orchid Guesthouse, as in our original plan we would have cycled to Cape Wrath today. Pity that a few factors played against us: we woke up hearing a very strong wind and thought the ferry would get cancelled + they were running military exercises where we were going (why????) + it turns out the ferry man (like a man with his small boat) was a bit moody and never picked up his phone = trip to Cape Wrath cancelled.
And what else can you do in Durness in a rainy and windy day? Somehow we managed to fill in the day and walked 27km! First we visited the Smoo Caves, then went to Balnakeil Beach, and grabbed some hot food in a cafe there around, and then Paul found this amazing walk up some hill from where we could have seen where we came from the day before...if it was not for the clouds. Overall, we still made the best of a rainy day, and I'm so glad I brought my waterproof over trousers!
not yet...
Day 7 – Durness to Kinlochbervie + Sandwood Bay – 51km
01 October 2020
Another rainy day with not much happening, and a lot of time to waste trying not to go into hypothermia...
We started by cycling down to Kinlochbervie on the infamous North Route 500, which made me hate cars even more that I did before, if that's possible at all. It was pouring down but we were well wrapped up and managed to not get too much dump. We stopped at the Old School, 3km to Kinlochbervie, to drop our panniers as we would spend the night there, and then off we went again, light and happy, towards Sandwood Bay. There is not much in Kinlochbervie, but luckily the “Worth a Look” cafe was open so that we stopped to get some shelter, get a hot snack, and obviously waste some time. The cafe was typical of the Highlands, no frills service but with a pleasant atmosphere, I'm so glad we stopped there.
After an hour we had to face going out in the rain, it could no longer be delayed. We cycled first on the road to the start of the path, and then on the path for ½ of the way. Surprisingly there were quite a few people around. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Scotland, but to me it looked like a beach really...I'm more of a mountain type anyway!
Day 8 – Kinlochbervie to Rogart – 87km, 640m up
02 October 2020
And when you think you have an easy day ahead, you realise that there is no easy day in the West Coast!
We had a super relax breakfast and left the Old School at 9.22am as we only had 95k on tarmac down to Rogart (and after cycling on gravel, I promise you will fly on tarmac!). As soon as we got on the road we realised that it would not be such an easy day after all...HEADWIND!!! and a lot of it! Even cycling on flat required so much energy, and by the end of the day it felt like I've climbing on gravel all day!
By 11am we only did 22k, and I had nothing left. We stopped to eat something and do some maths, and decided to take it easy and stop at every 15km max. The good news was that we were 5km away from the point where turned a few days before, at the end of Loch Shin. That made me feel better as it was all known territory from there. Getting there required climbing up a hill first, in granny gear, with cars and lorries, but at least it was a 2 lanes road, and the views were pretty amazing too.
We stopped outside the Overscaig Hotel which is now closed. We were hoping to sit outside to snack something but when we saw Kevin's car we decided to stop on the other side of the road instead...no more shouting please!
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| will we ever get there... |
We then went down the loch and reached Lairg, and stopped at the Pier for lunch, and a super slice of cheesecake...I'm still dreaming of it.
From there it was a 17k to Rogart, our day destination, which we did very slowly, stopping half way through, we were really done!
We stayed at the Sleeperzzz, which was the only reason why we went in Rogart. If you have never been there, and you like cycling, go! They are cycling freaks and the place is a converted train, it's so worth staying there!
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| The waiting room |
Conclusion
We were supposed to cycle down to Inverness, but there was a yellow warning of rain and by then we were done with cycling in rain and wind so that we opted for a handy train back home instead (the advantage of sleeping in the Waiting Room by the station!)
We both agree that we are done with the West Coast, we have seen most of it and it's now time to look at new horizons (Paul ripped off the Norway map from the atlas)...Spain?
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| The friendly cat of the train station |
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