The West Coast of Scotland Part 2 – The Revenge

When	7 to 15 May 2016
Distance	780km/487m
Elevation gained	8940 m
Bikes	Dharma and Hayduke (cross monsters)
Equipment	2 panniers and handlebar bag (sleeping in hostels)

Scotland never fails to surprise. We had been up the West Coast 2 years before and knew that the weather up there is harsh and changeable, so that we were ready for rain and storms but we were blessed with days of blazing sunshine, and a lot of headwind. The landscapes were superb as expected but the traffic was quite a spoiler, especially in the one lane roads. Still, very happy with the trip and with the memories we took with us.


Day 1 – Inverness to Alltbeithe – 80km, 640m elevation gained

Two weeks before we left Inverness in snow heading eastward, and took us ages to find our way out of it. This time it was the opposite, ready with maps, we were out of town in no time. We crossed the bridge and the canal, then in 2 hours we reached Cannich with a pushing wind and a flattish road. We sopped for a coffee at the pub, the last we would see until the day after, and slowly started our climb up to Glen Affric to the first lake, were some running/cycling race was taking place. 

Waiting room in the Highlands

Entering Glen Affric

Running always comes first :)

After the first lake the road turned to gravel , which at first was cyclable, then after the second lake turned into a rocky road/path, so that we had to start pushing for the last few kilometres to the hostel.

 

Spotting the hostel at the end of the day is always a warm reassurance that no matter how tired you are there is a shower and some hot food coming soon. This hostel was no exception. A fierce wind was barking outside but we were cosy and warm at the fireplace with our scones offered from the house enjoying the wilderness from the window. Considering the remote location and the fact that is off the grid it still offered everything you need. Really a great place to stay. The room was freezing though and we put on every blanket we found on top of our sleeping bags. The wind was getting stronger and it started raining, but from a window the rain is never really a bad view. 

https://www.syha.org.uk/where-to-stay/highlands/glen-affric.aspx  

Finally at the Alltbeithe Youth Hostel

Still can't believe the amount of food we ate

 

Day 2 - Alltbeithe to Applecross – 95km, 1400m elevation gained

What an epic day, I still quite can't get it all in my head, it feels like we compressed 3 days in one and somehow managed to survive getting out of Glen Affric, and the infamous Bealach-Na-Ba Pass.

We woke up at 6am with rain and a gloomy landscape. We knew it would have taken us a while to push the bikes out of Glen Affric, but we didn't expect it'd be such an ordeal. We put on all our waterproof gear as the sky was not encouraging and the ground was drenched with rain and by 7.30 we were on the move.

We were ready for 4h of pushing but we did underestimate the condition of the path and the terrain. The path was a real mountain path and pushing the bikes with panniers up and down was not easy job. The landscape was amazing and helped cheer up the mood, an eagle was flying by too which is always a good omen, but 10km of mountain path is serious stuff. After that there are still 6km of cyclable but not very comfortable landrover track to get to the road in Morvich, so that in total it took us 4h to cover 16km! We knew that the only shop we would find on the road, in Lochcarron, would close at 4pm that day, so that we had 33 miles and a hill to cover and quickly took off our winter clothes and started to cycle to Dornie. 

Good morning Scotland!

My favourite...

Bothy about 4km after the hostel

hours spent pushing the bike up and down this track

there is something about Scotland that you just fall in love with it

Finally with the path behind, consolation smoke

Time for our drinkable Margherita Pizza, bought in the States and expired 5 months ago, soooo good!?

The beautiful Eilean Donan Castle was a nice surprise and of course deserved a contemplation break. The hill from Nostie to Stromeferry was a taster of the big one to come, and with the pressure of the store soon to close we pushed a lot. We made it to the Spar and stuffed ourselves with thousand of junk calories. In 30 minutes, in order, I ate: 1 icecream, 1 pot of yogury+granola, cheese and lattuce sandwich, a 720 calories bag of crisps, 1 banana and ½ can of pineapple. We were already dead tired and started laughing when we realised that the hard bit was still to come!

Eilean Donan Castle caught us by surprise

Food!!!

After the abundant lunch we left the town at 4.30 climbing up to Ardarroch. By then it was sunny and hot, and we could start to see the majestic Bealach-Na-Ba, so big that was almost scaring. It took all our patience, motivation and energies to climb that steep road, and finally, after kms of granny gear forever, we were infinitely satisfied with ourselves when we reached the top, with a few thumbs up from the passing bikers, AMAZING!

AMAZING!!!!

On the top of Bealach-Na-Ba Pass

The last few km of downhill, with the snowy peaks of Skye in the distance, the loch below us and this sneaky road unfolding below our wheels was pure joy and beauty beyond words. In no time we found ourselves in the cute and welcoming village of Applecross and found our way to the hostel which looked like a huge empty mansion, beautiful spot to end the day.
 

SHYA in Applecross

My heartbeat that evening was 33, going into letarcy...

Day 3 - Applecross to Gairloch – 110km, 900m elevation gained

Today we paid for the effort of the day before. It was a long 110km with 8m/s headwind, sun, 25 degrees and it was endless. The landscapes have been amazing all the time, Skye, Torridon, Loch Maree, despite the general feeling of exhaustion I felt very lucky to be out there. The only downside was the one lane road, which means we had to stop many times to get cars pass. In such beautiful and peaceful settings cars really felt out of place but then I guess my view is slightly biased.

The first 40km to Shieldaig was a roller coaster of unreal 20%gradient climbs, one after the other, by the time we got there I was dead. We stopped for a pre lunch appetiser and to get ready psychologically for another big climb to Torridon. That bit was amazing, surrounded by beautiful mountains everywhere. We had lunch sitting in the shade of a tree in Torridon, and then kept going for another hill before getting to Kinlochewe were I had my ice cream number 2.

Break in

Shieldaig

Torridon café and shop

Lunch break in Torridon

Another 22 miles and we finally reached Gairloch and the SYHA hostel which is a few miles further away but really worth the distance as the view from the lounge was the best possible way to end the day.

Finally in Gairloch

Day 4 - Gairloch to Ullapool – 100km, 1400m elevation gained

Another day blessed by a 25 degrees sunshine, and strong headwind, well, you can't have everything right? Two years before we did this route from the other direction and were caught by a blizzard, seeing the same places on a blue sky made us wonder if we were really in the West Coast or Spain.

It was another long and hard day. Resigned at the headwind and many climbs we set off early, stopping many times here and there to recover from the merciless wind that hit hard as soon as we turned Eastward down the hill to Dundonnel. 

We stopped on a piece of grass by the road, sheltered by a few bushes for lunch, and that was a beautiful break. We then stopped a few km down the road to a hotel were we got sheltered the last time we were there, and it still gave us shelter from the wind and a nice cup of tea.

The only Pine Marten I saw on the trip :(

We recovered energies for the big hill to come, and slowly slowly we made it to the top, passing by the bothy who saved us from the blizzard 2 years before. Again, in the sunshine it's hard to believe that this place can get so wild. The last 12 miles to Ullapool were supposed to be downhill and easy, truth is that it was never ending. The wind was slowing us down, the traffic on the A835 was heavy and my body was screaming for rest. 
 

Getting to Ullapool is always a pleasure, and a lot of satisfaction after cycling 400km in 4 days with 4000m of climbing. We spoiled ourselves at the Craegan Guest House and headed to the pub for fish and chips.

Energy out energy in

Day 5 - Ullapool to Kinlochbervie – 95km, 1200m elevation gained

Wind wind wind. It was a hard day and at times I doubt we would make it to Kinlochbervie. The headwind was brutal and slowed us down a lot. We thought of cheating and getting a lift but the Bike Gods decided we would need to cycle all the way up, and thanks to them we had quite a pleasant day after all, with many unexpected and varied sceneries.

The first 20km to Elphin were a nightmare of traffic and wind, but after a wee break the day started to look much brighter. The traffic slowed down, and after the second massive climb, and an emergency stop when Paul had to change his break pads, we reached Kylesku and had a good lunch break on the grass by the loch.

Pissed off at the headwind and traffic

Looking for a lift in Elphin, failed

By 3.15 we finished lunch and approached the second half of the day with philosophy and patience, still windy but still sunny too, not a bad balance after all.

The 10m to Scurie were pleasant although the road turned into a roller coaster with 12% climbs with beautiful views on the coast. Scurie has a good Spar and we stopped for a treat (Nomadic Mango Lassi!!!) before the last few miles to the Old School Guest House were we were heading. This part of Scotland is well worth visiting, and I'm glad that we had to cycle it all. The place we staid was perfect, beautiful view and tasty food, and so tired we slept like a log all night.

The map is giving me inspiration...West Coast 3?

Day 6 - Kinlochbervie to Tongue – 80km, 800m elevation gained

When we woke up we could hear the wind roaring outside and prepared ourselves for the worse, but at the end today it felt easier than usual. Apart from the chronic feeling of fatigue I felt I was getting stronger too, or maybe we were just getting used to pain: endless climbs, headwind, traffic? No worries, just keep pedalling!

It was 18 miles to Durness, starting with a big climb and cars but as soon as we got on the other side the view on the valley was amazing. We leisurely rolled down the road enjoying every stride and then up we went again towards Durness which is a quite and nice village. The Spar here is the last decent shop until Thurso, so that I treated myself with a very gnammy croissant - it was getting cooler, no icecream any more :(

We stopped for a tea break in the saddest café ever and enjoyed the last sunbeams as the weather would change from now on, back to normal Scotland! After a few ups and down along the coast we turned inside with a nice downhill and for once tailwind, until we reached a small village called Polla and had a very nice break below the bridge. We then kept going with headwind and uphill until we reached a vast open space with the view of Ben Hope in the distance, and the thought that it was a few miles to Tongue. In fact we could start to see it when we started the descent, and the view of the hostel just after the causeway was reassuring as usual. Our room was spectacular, by far the best we have ever had, so hard to leave it the morning after.

The sign behind says 15%, again.

oh yeah, I finally found my place in this world

Didn't really want to leave that gourgeous room

Day 7 - Tongue to Stromness – 80km, 800m elevation gained

Today it was a short 80km to Thurso but I felt quite tired. I cycled this road before and I knew it was all up and down with nothing really outstanding along the way, so we just pushed it to Thurso, still with headwind, and waiting for the ferry to the Orkneys.

where I stayed a few years before

The journey on the ferry was probably the best part of the day, with the view of Old Man of Hoy and so many puffins flying in the distance.

We arrived in Stromeness at 8.40pm and headed to the hostel which was not really one of the best we have been to...it was stinking of dump quite badly and were glad to leave it the day after to go and explore the island.

Friday night in Stormenss

Day 8 - Stromness to Kirkwall – 75km, 300m elevation gained

The wind was still strong, but we were determine to go up North to the Brough of Birsay as we were told the puffins would be there for sure. So up we went for 20km, parked the bikes and started walking to the island, went to the other side to check the cliffs but no puffins there at all! Slightly disappointed but oh well, we tried! We were expecting a lot of wildlife in the Orkneys but we were not very lucky, no puffins, no seals, no killer whales, still it was a good walk and it felt like being in the middle of nowhere.

We then headed to the Ring of Brodgar and then to Kirkwall. I thought it would have been a small town like Stromness but it's quite big. After cheking in the hostel we went to see the town and had a last night drink at the Bothy Bar, quite sad at the idea that the trip was about to finish, but somehow relieved too.

Back to winter mode

Day 9 - Kirkwall to Thurso – 65km, 300m elevation gained

Crazy and long day. We woke up at 4am so to leave the hostel at 5.30am and ride the 15 miles to St Margaret Hope were we would get the 7.45am ferry to Jon O Groat, in order to cycle the other 20miles to Thurso and get the 12.00 train to Edinburgh.

reaching the limit

It was endless and tiring. Once reached the mainland the weather was back to normal, rain and headwind, again! We made it to Thurso and spent the 8 hours in the train thinking if the trip actually happened? Was it really 25 degrees? Were we there? We are still quite spaced out and will probably take a few days to recover, but we are glad we made it, it was as challenging as rewarding, and we have many memories to treasure.

So, what did we learn? As usual, nothing. Maybe not to do it again...